coolrado

after i got the new company caddy van i started getting a really chesty cough which after a couple of weeks had really started to get on my nerves, so i went to the gp who asked me if the office i worked in was air condititoned, as it could have been a fungal chest infection from a dirty filtration system but when i said the office wasnt air conditioned he asked if the pollen filter in my car had been changed recently so i said no it hasnt got a pollen filter, so he prescribed me some antibiotics and sent me on my way, the antibiotics did the job and my chest felt fine again. a week or so later i was installing a temporary antenna on the bonnet of the van when i noticed there was actually a pollen filter fitted to it, even though it didnt have air con and it was very dirty, when i actually removed the filter it was full of mould so that must have been the cause of my chest infection. i will probably be fitting the rest of the air con system in the rado in the next couple of weeks so, as i am not really alergic to anything and i dont suffer with hayfever is there any point fitting a filter? unless there is a specific reason why cars with aircon need a filter i dont think i will bother fitting one.

it might be worth some of us calling different vw branches for prices on a few things each, and build up a list of common parts prices, it would save the headache some people have talking to the often less than helpfull vw parts department.

here you go, reasonable drop on coilovers. V's g60 standard suspension which has probably dropped slightly over time anyway.

well the camper cost him £2500 imported from nevada (including loads of free spiders living in the chassis rails) the engine and gearbox cost him about £100 all the extra's for the engine and turbo (using a turbo from a vauxhaul 1.7turbo diesel) have cost him less than £1500, the most expensive bit so far has been replacement panels and glass probably totalling about £2000, but he has done all of the welding, narrowing the front beam, lead filling smaller dents and panel beating, and will be painting it once he has got to that stage. the best bit about it is he has full use of his works machine shop, spray booth, bead blast cabinet, and has built a turnover rig for it so it makes it so much easier for us to work on, hopefully it should be worth around £20,000 when its finnished.

did you see that porsche powered camper on the gumball? there where two guys in a ferrari going about 100 mph and they where filming the driver of the ferrari looking out of the right hand window and the camper blasts past them at about 125mph :shock:

he only started with the casings for the 1600 engine, he had to buy the barrels, forged pistons, high flow heads, ignition sytem, deep sump ect.......well basically everything else apart from the casings and alternator, and its not just as simple as chucking a scooby engine in either, when you factor in the costs of all the other bits that need altering and adding to go scooby it works out quite a lot cheaper to use the vw aircooled block and keeps more of the original character of the vehicle, plus people who go watercooled dont seem to be very accepted in the watercooled circles (largely consisting of scary bearded folk) :bigsmurf: i should be putting some pictures of the progress he has made on his camper and the assembled engine in the next couple of weeks.

because it only costs about £1200 to do a turbo conversion and re-build on the aircooled vw engine and it would probably last 4 times longer than the subaru engine.

you can actually convert the camper engine to overhead cam by fitting just the heads of the subaru engine, a mate of mine went to speed shop in manchester last week and bought a whole load of stuff for his 62 split screen which is going to be running a turbo'd 1776 aircooled which are actually a very reliable engine when they are looked after, the guy who runs speed shop has a bay window with the original engine tuned and turbo'd to produce 410bhp so there is not much point putting a subaru engine in it.

cheers :thumbleft: i have been trying to think of something new to do with the boot as i need to get rid of the dvd changer anyway as i have the dvd nav drive now, i will keep the vw sub grill but i might recess the amps into the side panels or hide them so they are more protected, i was also toying with the idea of having corrado G60 in relief on the boot floor. any ideas?? ben16v i though you might notice that, i had pretty much forgotten i had a gallery thread until you mentioned it :D

to be fair the mats themselves did look very good quality, but the writing is just poorly glued on red felt (anyone remember fuzzy felt) :wink: if the writing was stitched in it would be much better.

i bought a set of justmatz ones at e38 last year, they looked like good quality but the first time i put them in the car and used them the g60 writing fell off, and that was just driving across the field with no shoes on at e38 so i had them for about 30 minutes before i took them straight back, which was a shame as they fitted really well and looked good, i only bought them for show use and they couldnt even cope with that.

the carpet is the stuff they sell in halfords (got a load of it before they doubled the price) and its not a bad match but there is a guy from stoke who turns up at most of the major shows who sells carpet that is a perfect match for the vw stuff and its a lot cheaper and better quality. the best way i found to do the sides was just to use stiff cardboard and trim it down a bit at a time until it sits flush with the floor, the back of the seats and the rear panel, then use the cardboard as a template, you should be able to use the main part of the template for the opposite side but will have to alter the bottom of it as the floor will be different. make sure it sits under the edge of the side shelves as it holds it all in nice and securely and stops any creaks, i used really strong self adhesive velcro where the side frames meet the floor so it holds it in securely but allows it to be removed quite easily if needs be.

i suppose so, things have changed a bit since i started this, the sub box is now made of 2 discs of 18mm mdf with tapered slats around the outside and lined with dynamat and dynashield, the false floor is 6mm hardwood mdf with a fibreglass dome for the sub grill to sit on and the sides are also 6mm, supported by frames so the car isnt altered at all, the capacitor with the voltage display is hidden behind the right hand side panel so just the display shows through a small window. a few pics...... stealth rr day engine bay front view

do you often have a problem with badgers climbing into you car where you live? be carefull when you remove them, they can be quite nasty. :lol:

sounds like you have one for a g60 from the fitting instructions. which are a bit pointless as they are in the same position as the original support when the bonnets open and get in the way, i bought what i thought was one of these at ultimate dubs for £5 and there turned out to be 2 g60 inxx struts in the box, so i am going to get some brackets made up so i can fit them next to the hinges out of the way.

i have had the weitec hicon gt coilovers (also from g-werks) on for a week or so and the ride is superb much better than the sloppy 1 year old boge turbo standard dampers (both rear ones where leaking after a year). damping seems just right, not too harsh but stops most of the bodyroll, i had them set quite high at first just to get used to them but now it lowered so the front splitter is about 2 1/2 inches off the ground and the ride is still excellent

i think its held on from the inside? there is a screw at the front on the inside that also holds the door seal down, i think you undo this one and the outer trim lifts off, the triangular cover on the inside just pulls off. the design of the mirrors does seem to cause a bit of wind noise anyway especially at motorway speeds.

you mentioned in this system that the pistons would in effect be pulled by an implosion rather than pushed by an explosion, surely the bearing caps on the end of the con rods are not designed to work in this way, the forces during normal running would mainly be compressing the con rod not stretching it and putting a lot of strain on the bearing cap? a lot of very good inventions and discoveries have been made in peoples garden sheds and garages :dorky: , i'm not going to start to pretend i know what the hell you are going on about but i'm glad youre actually experimenting with something rather than just sitting on your arse dismissing theories. fair enough nothing may have been convincingly proved yet, but it also has'nt been disproved. good luck with your h-bomb :onfire: powered corrado, i will be interested to see the results whether they are good or bad.

cheers :thumb right:

a couple of months ago i managed to get a pioneer dvd nav drive to match the screen in my car which are still selling new for £899 on the net, but because it was on an old stock code they get discounted at each stock check, the chester store got it transfered from ipswich and when it arrived at chester i was expecting it to have bits missing or be damaged, but it was mint condition still with the pioneer factory seal 8) then the guy on the counter checked the stock code again and said it had been reduced again since they got it transferred and it was now £150 :lol: i have never handed money over so quickly before in my life. its worth going into halfords and asking them what stuff they have on their old stock lists, and ask them to do a nationwide search, when he checked for me there where loads of alpine, blaupunkt and pioneer av products at rediculously low prices, you might just have to wait a while if they have to transfer the stock.

the signal is taken from final drive in the gear box so it shouldnt have changed, it is possible to adjust the clocks but you really need to check it with gps or something accurate when you do, have you checked the speed using the mfa or just the dials?

finally got chance to lower it after fitting the coilies, just got to wait for the BBM boost hoses from g-werks and then i can start cleaning up the engine bay, and looking in to getting the subframes and rear beam either powder coated or galvanised. i think the back end might need dropping a little more what does everyone think?

when was the last time the brakes where bled? if your compensator is free, your handbrake is working and your not loosing fluid you could have air in the brake system or the fluid is knackered, for the cost its worth bleeding the whole system through once a year anyway when bleeding the brakes its worth using something to hold the compensator fully open (as if under full load) as the fluid flows much more freely and should get rid of any bubbles quicker.

nah if it did that it would increase the braking force when the back end was at its lightest and would probably lock the back wheels up.

it actually says "no war, peas" :lol: thats the same piece of wall that was mentioned on top gear where it also says "why do i do this every day" which really isnt what you want to see when your in the middle of a traffic jam commuting into london :cry: . you also seem to see a lot of single shoes at the side of the road but never a pair?