coolrado

this sorts out one problem http://shrinkalink.com/2824 no need to stand in the queue with the burberry clad little scrotes now :lol:

car starts perfectly especially after i nicked the new battery of the works diesel caddy :lol: i have checked all the earth straps and also added some more to make sure so i think that just leaves the clocks now :scratch: cheers for the link :thumbleft: still doesnt appear to be the problem though as my mfa readings seem fine ? ah well i might take the clocks apart and see what happens at the same time as the clocks dip to trace the problem.

any more info on this capacitor problem henny? i have checked and cleaned every connection i can, and even run a new earth to the clocks, but i still sometimes see the rev counter and speedo dip quite a lot and the clock resets itself most mornings when i start the car.

quite an achievement that :lol:

well i finally dropped the car off at the bodyshop early this morning and found out the bonnet foam rac ordered was for a late bonnet :mad: still not sure whether its availiable or not ? anyway i took the foam back to rac and also asked for the money for the bonnet and they said for the inconvenience they will also pay for the roof and boot to be sprayed :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: so now i will have a full respray for nothing :cheers: only problem is no rado for a week and a half :brickwall: will just have to spend a bit of time on the mk2 g60, that me and a mate are working on 8)

8) looks like im gonna be skint even more, too many shiney things :lol:

hmm interested in this http://www.bahnbrenner.com/media/php/ca ... &catid=203 will you be doing a uk price list for all the stuff?

the problem with the strips is that the only thing they seem to protect aginst is other corrado's :lol: and even then the other corrado will probably be a different height to yours depending on the ride height. most 4x4's that usually cause the big parking dents smack the side of your car way above the side strip aswell, mine has just gone into the bodyshop for a full respray and the side strips have been removed so i will see what it looks like without them when its finnished.

unfortunatly you liftime will probably end when you find the first sharp corner :lol:

does it seem like the bars that connect to the mech have become disconnected at the mech end or are they disconnected at the interior handle end? you might be able to get at the mech if you unhook the top of the door card and unscrew as many of the screws that hold the door card on and pull it back slightly. you shouldnt need to damage anything to do it. have you tried spraying it with wd40 through the gap or pushing the door in as you pull the handle ?

if its just the little plastic arm that slides over the flat metal lever on the lock mech that is broken, then you should be able to flick it up using a coat hanger with a small hook on the end through the door lock pin hole.

which door handle has gone? the outer one? is the interior door lock pin loose when you push it up and down?

certain parts of the corrado are galvanised, i have seen a diagram of the parts that where plated i think it was the bonnet and the lower half of the doors, the diagram also said the different parts where galvanised in different ways. i will have to try and dig it out. the only tiny bits of rust i have found on mine have been due to muppet windscreen fitters scratching the paint, there is certainly no hint of any structural rust whatsoever. my old mr2 had holes in the chassis i could put my hand through and my mates L reg alfa 155 actually seperated from the chassis all the way around the boot due to corrosion and his fathers brand new mercedes a-class had to be sent back due to rust bubbling up around the fuel filler neck. i dont think i have ever seen a car as old as the corrado with as little corrosion.

i prefer using fibreglass resin on cheap stretchy acoustic cloth (maplin speaker grill cloth works well) you can then layer some fibreglass matting on top to add strength. just make some formers and stretch the cloth over them and then coat it in resin and let it harden, that usually gives a nice organic shape. or you can also use smooth synthetic fleece fabric which takes on loads of resin and becomes very strong once the resin has cured. i have also seen people use hard foam which is then hand carved or sanded away to get the desired shape. any way you try will probably be quite messy but the easiest way i have found is the acoustic cloth covered with fibreglass matting. edit...................oops too late ^

a folder full of receipts for service and repair parts would impress me 10x more than a list of dealer services, as you can never really gurantee what has been done on a service. and i dont trust any garages tbh with the exception of places like g-werks. my car had full dealer history up untill i bought it including dealer receipts for 3 g-laders before it had even reached 90k including 1 a month before i bought it at about 1300quid a time, a couple of months later my charger started having problems after a seal started leaking oil onto the small belt, which stripped all the teeth off the belt, luckilly there was no damage to the charger and darren at g-werks diagnosed a blocked oil feed. i removed the feed line and sliced it open and the bore had shrunk down to less than a mm across, so the vw dealer (somewhere in slough i think) had changed the charger 3 times and not actually thought about why the charger was failing, that and a few other bad experiences have put me off having any work whatsoever done at the dealerships. a lack of service history is likely to affect the value a bit as the majority of buyers wont touch a car without some sort of history, and the ones that know a bit more about the cars and can see if its been well maintained without the paperwork will probably use it as a bargaining tool.

just stripped the foam off the bonnet i got from 24vrenshaw and its a complete tw@ of a job, the guy at the bodyshop tried some adhesive remover and all it did was make the glue even slimier and messy. i ended up using celulose thinners which has also taken all the paint off under the foam but as the whole bonnet is being re-sprayed thats not a problem. even the thinners didnt actually disolve it it just softened it enough to scrape off with a scraper. and luckilly i dont have to pay for the foam as thats up to rac windscreens. :lol:

i would probably suggest not going to any of the rac windscreens branches http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... highlight= i have only driven the car about 20 miles since as the damage they caused makes it look like a heap :mad: hopefully it should be better than before once its been re-sprayed so im just looking forward to the end of this month. i might even take a trip down to the rolling road meeting if it looks good enough.

also check your exhaust it not hitting anything, when my front mount let go it also stretched the exhaust flexies and the exhaust started hitting the bottom of the bulkhead

not just a front end re-spray, i asked the guy at my bodyshop to tell them he couldnt match the bonnet and wings as it would not match the rest of the car, and that both sides of the car would also need doing and they agreed to pay it :cheers: both doors where slightly off colour anyway and there are plenty of parking dents that need sorting, and to be honest i was saving up for a re-spray so now its getting done without costing me a penny, but to be honest i would rather of paid for it myself and not had all the hastle this has caused i spent several hours stripping the under bonnet foam off the bonnet i bought from james renshaw and that glue is unbelievable :lol:

the c's going in for a re-spray on the 30th of october and it looks like the windscreen place might be paying the extra 200 quid to get the roof done as well. i suppose i will just have to get the rest of the car sorted out in the mean time and try and figure out what im going to do with the roof trims, i also just got a dvb tv tuner for it so thats another thing that needs fitting.

you dont need to modify the car in any way to fit a towbar, you just remove the bumper by removing the 4 bolts underneath and slide it out, then unbolt the 2 legs that slide inside the chassis then just bolt the tow bar in its place, i have a spare rear bumper with the towbar permanently attached to it just so it takes about 5 minutes to fit and remove, i have only ever used it for a mountain bike trailer though.

and the recaro start has speakers in the headrest which is handy for keeping them occupied 8)

might be tricky :?

its going back in on tuesday for another screen and im picking a bonnet up from jay renshaw on monday so as soon as the bodyshop has a space its getting done. i asked if there was anything to sign when i left the car with them and they said no, but if they had denied the damage there would have probably been some vinnie jones head slammed in the door style action i dont think the fitter liked being called a f***ing chimp. the thing is the car was done at the depot, they had all day to do it and i even took all the interior screen trim off to make it easier and they still managed to f**k every aspect of the job up so far the bill for painting the bonnet and both sides of the car (sorts out all the parking dents too) has come to 850 quid and then the screen fitting place has to order the under bonnet foam, the bonnet stay, the lower screen trim and the new screen, so yes it is going to be very expensive for them so i hope they learn their lesson and sack the complete tool who messed it up

its from the model before the current one and from what i have seen they all have the same screen in them. i dont see why you shouldnt be able to change the illumination i think its all done with surface mount led's though, when you switch the lights on it sort of fades on then fades off when you switch it off which is quite cool as well no pics of the engine bay yet as i have taken it all out until i get the pipes made up