Tekara

Go for a Mk3 Golf VR6, believe thats what i bought from Stealth. You will need a short adaptor hose to attached the BMC to the MAF, Stealth included this not sure if others do.

No prob mate, i'll have to pop some vids of mine up now :D

Finally chrome handles, ill go in on a group buy

Another vote for the BMC, with a cold air feed its only a little louder than standard, difference is the sound changes from the muted muffled note to a fantastic growl. I didn't bother with relocating the CC to run the cold air feed, i just carefully twisted and cut the pipe to fit in behind the headlight. The air feed even that small amount quietens down the BMC and introduces a better low end pick up, when compared to running it without.

Cant go wrong with the VAG system, quiet but purposeful sound. They seem to last for about 10 years so its not bad, always that join that seems to go.

All this talk of Konis/H&R's is making me think its time to lavish a little money on the Rado.

Saw that too, he waffled on quite a bit, but the VR sounded great :D

Having been through a similar situation using local places and not getting a decent job. I considering using Stealth, everyone recommends them which left me in no doubt they'd get the job done right. However the drive kind of put me off as its a day off work really. In the end i decided to take a gamble and venture to the local stealership. They did a top job i might have been lucky as the guy who did it was an ex Rado owner. Cost just short of £160 in the end, that included the loan of Polo for the day.

Seem to be quite common at the moment. Living out in the sticks you'd think it would be quite rare to see another Rado. But oh no, In the village where i live with about 200 people and theres 3 Rados.

Depending on your view on the value of money, a group buy will probably snag you a BMC for £140. I was impatient and found the saving over waiting to not be worth £20, so i bit the bullet and paid the extra to get it from Stealth when i was there.

I used to have a couple of sets when i was a nipper, think they are in the loft come to think of it. It was fantastic stuff, used to get hours of fun out of it. Didint know there were Rado Darda cars. Ill have to find the collection and take a look through it.

Cant help with the dash lights being on im afraid, sounds like a pervious owner has done a little wiring. I know that people who do the reverse back light mod on the LCD gauges rig a power feed to turn them on with the ignition. Im sure someone with electrical knowledge will be along soon to help out.

Sounds like the plastic that surrounds the central orange LED has broken away. Mine crumbled when i repaired my tabs. I managed to make up a little metal surround to replace it out of a floppy disk shield. The LEDs should be as follows. 1: Light switch off, ignition on (Bulb icon lit orange) 2: Side lights (Bulb icon lit orange, surround green) 3: Dipped (Bulb icon lit orange)

Have you removed 3 screws from the headlamps ? 2 on the top edge, 1 in the middle towards the bottom of the lamp. Should just slide out after that.

Bought one from Ford for £20 a while back, on my invoice it lists the part number as 7364573 Valve-Crankvent. Hope that helps, they'd find the part on the system easy enough without it.

Quality bit of Clarkson antics

Quality cover Jim. I'll be buying a copy of this when its ready :)

Trip counter millage is lost after a very short period after being disconnected.

AFAIK disconnecting the battery will only every loose trip millage on digital guages.

You can find KUR2Y by going to the Portal page of the Forum and clicking on his user name from the "Registered User List", on the right side of the page. His looms are spot on, excellent quality and made such a difference to night driving.

Just had a new Toad Ai606 fitted due to the cold weather killing off the 10 year old one. I got a couple of question, hoping anyone one who owns one, or knows about them might be able to advise. I asked for the Automatic locking on starting to be disabled, but everytime i turn the ignition off you can hear the central locking pump kick in as though its trying to unlock. Should this be happening ? When locking the car via the remote it locks straight away but, 5-10 secs later you hear the central locking pump have a second go at locking. Should it be doing this ? Finally does your drivers door pin still activate the central locking ? Thanks in advance

I take it they caved in to your haggling. Good job too, cant believe they put the price up.

As Nick has volunteered my assistance it would be rude not to honour it.

Looks really nice, super shiny

Its most likely blocked. My rear wash used to work, but its now progressed to more of a dribble. Haven't found a way to unblock.