stevemac
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Content Count
3,397 -
Joined
Everything posted by stevemac
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Only reason I didn't get an Eaton when I replaced my charger earlier this year was because I couldn't be bothered with the hassle of "making it fit".
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corradowales, My problem was that an incorrect seal had been fitted. No engine damage at all. Daz (G-werks) sorted my charger out - I was driving the car there to have some other work done, when the seal went (It wasn't g-werks who fitted the incorrect seal). Correct seals, correctly fitted are usually reliable - so far as I know. If you want some advice - get g-werks to rebuild your charger, when it needs doing. I wouldn't even consider taking my charger anywhere else.
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AFAIK - there's adaptor plates for sale on German egay - quite often
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Bottom hose will stay cold until the thermostat opens
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I had a charger that blew an oil seal, within 180 miles of use.. :shock:
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AFAIK - Cooper S charger is too small. So far as I'm aware, the reason that very few (if any) people use Eaton chargers is down to lack of marketing & not lack of quality. For example, Mercedes now use them on the V8 5.5 litre AMG cars - developing 500bhp. :shock: This is quite a difference to the normally aspirated V8 5.5 litre AMG's which develop approx 365bhp.
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AFAIK - Eaton chargers are fitted to early Mercedes "Kompressor" engines (M111). There seems to be a few available quite regularly on ebay. You'll need an adaptor plate to fit one to a G60 though.
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Sounds like a rear wheel bearing to me
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Nope - we have very few of the Bosch ones left Everything in life's worth a try. If you're a CCGB member, some (not all) of our branches will offer a discount. There is no national agreement but most of our branches will offer a discount to members of various motoring clubs.
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Dodgy handbrake switch or wiring to it ?
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stevemac's G60 8) (mapped & back on the road)
stevemac replied to stevemac's topic in Members Gallery
"Mega Leads" - complete crap, don't touch them with a bargepole. Beru are the ones to go for - good quality & very reliable. -
Not a right lot m8 - I work at GSF . :wink:
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Not received m8 - u want to send it again ?
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Sounds like an idea for the "unique mods" thread . :D
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Supercharged, Thanks for the offer but I'll decline at the moment. No point putting money into a spare charger that I may never use. New one's boosting well, thanks to g-man, who put new seals in it for me.. :D
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My piston rings were fcuked at 98k. For the very small amount of extra work involved, I'd change them.
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How many metallic black ones ?
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You may loose a few PSI with the front mount cooler but cooler air = more oxygen. It's the oxygen content of the air that the engine burns, so even with slightly less boost you should have more power.
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I have a spare charger, ported to R1 spec. Bit worn but still works. May not have much life left in it but somebody could use it as a guide to port their own. I want £80 if one of you guy's wants to buy it ?
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Should hope so too .. :lol:
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Oil pumps are generally very relaible items. Problems may occur if the oil has become contaminated, or if the car has been run very low on oil. Most oil pump wear occurs when the pump is new - within the first few miles of use.
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If you stick a "90 degree bend" hose onto the bottom of the throttle body - excess boost helps cool the inlet manifold .. :D
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R1-Jay, Welcome to the forum .. :wink: Steering rack is a complete pain in the arse to do - pay someone else to do it.
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g60griff, Easy'ish way to check for certain is to remove the front wheel & also the front brakepads. It will then be obvious if the bearing has "gone". Hold the hub at the top & at the bottom (not at the sides), if there's any movement - it's the bearing.
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Venting the engine oil fumes back through the charger is GOOD for it - it lubricates the apex/scroll seals. When the boost return is removed - it becomes necessarry to spray silicone grease into the charger inlet, periodically, to lubricate these seals.