stevemac
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Content Count
3,397 -
Joined
Everything posted by stevemac
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This will be because you have no ISV fitted & working correctly.
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If possible, I would contact whoever disconnected the ISV & ask them what they did to the settings. The it's just a case of re-adjustment. It may be that the car has some kind of problem that caused the idle problems in the first place - unrelated to the ISV.
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Phil K, I know we're kind of hi-jacking Stel's thread here but if you remove the clocks (only 4 screws to undo) you'll see if there's a vac pipe connection on the back of them. If there is & it has a vac pipe plugged onto it, possibly your garage has connected the other end to the wrong part of the vac system in the engine bay ? On a G60, it plugs into the brake servo vac pipe valve - not sure on yours though. Bentley manual only has details for US spec G60's & 2.8 VR6's.
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I think mine cost around £25 - including the boot floor .. :mrgreen:
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I with Scruffythefirst here, the garage may not have reconnected all of your earth leads Phil. Can't remember if your MFA is vacuum or electrically operated but I suspect all of your problems will be linked to the same cause.
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Worth checking the other end of the pipe too - it attaches to the valve on the brake servo vacuum pipe - next to the ISV.
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Phil K, U sure your's is vacuum operated ? VR6's are definitely electrically operated & I'm not sure about 2.0-16v's
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M.P.H., Best thing to do with the dents is to get them removed at one of the VW shows - many are advertised in our "events" section. This method is usually cheaper & you can see cars that the guy's already done. At least 1 dent removal specialist is at all of the larger shows.
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I suspect the chain of events may have been - ISV became faulty; instead of replacing the faulty part, it was disconnected; adjustments were then made to the ignition system to account for the lack of functunal ISV. I reckon that the ISV should be reconnected & the ignition system readjusted back to it's correct settings. You will then have a fully functioning car .. :wink: Alternatively, there could be a fault with the ISV wiring ?
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Nice one - I made mine from 2 sheets of 18mm MDF. I cut one piece to shape & cut oval holes in it for the speakers. I cut the other sheet to width & mounted the speakers into it. Then I glued both sheets together & covered the whole lot with acoustic cloth. Looks just like the original VW shelf from outside the car. I also had some spare MDF left, so I made a new boot floor & covered that too .. :lol:
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There is a write-up on how to change the switch on here somewhere. To remove the phillips screw in the back of the switch you'll either need the smallest screwdriver on the planet or one of those ones with the 90 degree angled head. We sell the angled head screwdrivers at GSF & Halfords also sell them.
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mike_g60, The cooler is 790mm total width, the core is 630mm x 180mm x 50mm & it has alloy header tanks. The inlet & outlet are both 60mm diameter. It is about the widest cooler that will fit onto a G60 - as you can see from the picture. The cooler is not yet mounted to the car but the picture will give you an idea of it's size relative to the car.
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I also have rounded the same 4 pulley screws in the past - they come out fairly easily. Hammer a spline key into the bolt heads & they'll unscrew okay. I never re-use those 4 bolts, even if they look okay - I fit new ones every time.
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Nice one - I'm gonna check the ignition timing again over the weekend, now that I've adjusted the cam timing by 10 degrees to suit my new camshaft.
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Yeah - I can supply coolers the same as mine for £115 + vat The inlet & outlet pipe diameter is 60mm (very similar to throttle body). A reducer will be required from the alloy charger outlet from 76mm to 60mm. Ideally, a Golf G60 alloy U-bend charger outlet would also be required - Darren (G-Werks) has some of these, if you need one. There is a link to some pictures is my sig.
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Tempest, Maybe I'm missing something here (or just a bit thick). I recently set the timing on my G60, after having disconnected the blue temp sender to disable the ECU corrective timing. The timing setting of 6 degrees advance didn't alter relevent to the engine speed. Wether the engine was running at 1k or 2.5k rpm my timing light still registered 6 deg BTDC. If I've done this correctly - why do VW specify that the timing is set at 2.5k rpm ? Or is one of my sensors dead ?
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Be very careful when tightening the rear wheel bearings - usually the correct tightness is learned with experience. Once rebuilt, the rear wheels should spin without resistance & without any "play" in the bearings. Rear caliper carrier allen bolts can be a bar steward to remove - had to grind the heads off 2 of mine at the weekend !!
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Not sure on the VR but on the G60 it's a big orange light to the left side of the clocks - not one of the lights underneath Yes - it should come on for a few seconds while the car checks the ABS system. It then goes out if the ABS system is functioning correctly
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Im new here, and want one of dems Corrado's...
stevemac replied to G-Laden's topic in General Car Chat
G-Laden, Welcome to the Forum m8. My choice would be (& was) a G60 - be prepared for doing some work on it though - even low mileage ones are still at least 12/13 years old. I wouldn't even consider any of the other engines -
Brentacre have given me the best quote so far, although I'm a little concerned now I've read Lee's remarks. I'll speak to John again before commiting to a new policy.
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Is the nearside slightly whiter than the drivers side ? If so, just remove the bulb from the nearside - not needed for MOT
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U have any water or condensation in there Andi ?
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I'll give you a run in mine when I get it re-mapped .. :wink: Good to see your car's back Sam - FMIC install looks great .. :rambo: Has the cooler made much of a difference to the power ?
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No worries m8 .. :D
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Could be the head gasket ?? Is the car using water too ?