Joe M

Stick the manifold on the classifieds, you should get at least £800 for it I reckon. There about £1750 new nowadays.

Im doing this tommorow, ive sprayed the sensor/bolt with wd a couple of times over the last few days. There seems to be plenty access with the wheel turned to full lock so if the bolt comes out first time it should be a 10 minute job. 8) I reckon theres 2 chances of that happening though...

The wheels you have on will affect the at the wheels figure. It wont affect the engine output though and the corrected value (the one people quote most of the time) should be the same with either wheels. Id leave on whatever wheels you drive the car with, no point changing them to get a different figure if its not even what you run on.

Ive got a front one sitting here waiting to go on and as far as I can tell it is a genuine ate part with the ate marking melted off.

You can get the front sensors from ECP for about £28. I assume the rears will be cheaper than £100 from them as well.

Oh, and there is a bit on the logbook to fill out a new engine number.

If your with elephant/admiral/bell direct there is a tickbox on the modifications section of there site that asks "standard replacement engine" so some companies do want to know if its been replaced. I had to go for this on mine and there was no increase.

Beat a few clio 172/182's and cupra r's on the road and track. Clio was quick off the line but once moving the vr was quicker (the clios did have the edge on a wet track though). Never came up against a mini.

I got a 2.9 engine with 69k on it for £530 delivered back in March.

Red H plate on Great Western Road about 2pm today?

We managed to do mine with a litre and that was with the system completely empty as the brake lines were being changed at the time.

Number ive got here is 01772 45 46 47 Is that the one you tried?

Ive occasionaly had problems similar to that after using the key to lock/unlock instead of the remote. Something to do with the switch in the lock barrel sticking slightly. Probably wont make a difference as I havent heard of anyone else with the same problem but try puting the key in and turn it slightly then try the windows again.

Anyone know where places like MJ Interiors and DB Cartrim get there Alcantara from?

Octanes in the US arent measured in RON so its not as bad as you think. Have a look here: http://www.btinternet.com/~madmole/Refe ... ONPON.html

NS Racing

What cams is that with? 280's or higher? With 268's the torque curve should be almost flat from 4000 up.

How much are you wanting for the chip H8RRA, I could be interested if it is for a CP ecu as chris says, then I could have a 220-230bhp vr kit going on the market shortly.

If I remember rightly, your old red C was a 2.0 valver with some mild tweaks wasn't it? In which case a 13.9 is V impressive! 1.5 to 2 seconds quicker than those Civic Type Chavs.... going by the figures I saw them achieve at the Pod last year. I think Chris is talking about his new car, some Seat Ibiza Cupra variation.

pretty much, just got the immobilizer one niggling at me now.

Just got this from the DTC list: 00735 Recirculation Flap Position Sensor -G143. * If this code is found on late model VR6 (AAA) refer to code #01247. 01247 EVAP Canister Purge Regulator Valve -N80 So yeah, this was due to the carbon canister being unplugged before, I never mentioned it but this didnt reappear after the codes were reset as the cc is back in place.

Had diagnostics run on my car tonight (big thanks to Alan Walker) due to my abs light being on and it brought up a few more codes than I expected, some were easy explained and cleared but theres others im not too sure about: Address 01: Engine 2 Faults Found: 00735 - Potentiometer in Positioning Motor for Air recirculation Flap (G143) 31-00 - Open or Short to Ground 00513 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28) 03-00 - No Signal Engine speed sensor is easy explained as its the usual one that appears when the engines not running. Whats the other one all about though? I didnt think UK cars had the air recirculation thing, or is this the valve that goes to the carbon canister as I did have that removed at one point? Address 03: ABS Brakes 3 Faults Found: 00283 - Front Left ABS Wheel Speed Sensor (G47) 35-00 - - 00290 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor; Rear Left (G46) 04-00 - Mechanical Malfunction 00287 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor; Rear Right (G44) 04-00 - Mechanical Malfunction Easy one this, rear sensors must have been from when it was on the rolling road, and they didnt reappear after being cleared. Ill check the wiring to the front left sensor and replace if needed to cure my lack of abs at some point. Address 25: Immobilizer 00546 - Data wiring faulty 27-00 - Implausible Signal Never heard of this before, and my immobilizer seems to work ok as my car starts and runs fine, unless I use my spare uncoded key then it cuts out after about a second. Any ideas or should I just ignore it? That was all the error codes, we also checked out the measuring block bit and noticed that the throttle ranged from 10% to 93%, does that sound ok? I know ive seen Kev mention what the readings for this should be but couldn't find it on a quick search. Also worth noteing that it read my coolant temp as 93degrees and the gauge was at about 100, so they probably all read a bit high.

Its normal for them to sit high at one side. The dent probably came from movement in your old knackered mount.

vr6 uses 2 cams. Ive got a set of schrick 268's in mine and there ace. Just the cams required and some gaskets to fit them, upgraded springs are recommended but its debatable if they are really needed. (Mine are still in a box somewhere.) A remap will be required as well. Schrick cams arent cheap at about £550 for a set but there are cheaper makes out there that are supposed to be good as well, cat cams and others.

Looks ok to me, the pumps were updated some time near the end of the g60's run so it might look a bit different, but it will fit and work fine. It is a 4bar pump.