Joe M

Crank sensor and ecu relay havent been touched, car would run poorly without cam sensor. Timing was unchanged, swapped the cams over without even taking the gear wheels off the chains, wouldnt affect the spark anyway. :( Im really thinking it must be the chip, but ill check all the simple things first like vag-com, fuses etc. Hopefully the vag com shows something as I really dont want to have to find an ecu.

Yeah, im gonna take the laptop with me tommorow and give it a go.

Ok, heres what ive done. Removed Schrick VGI and all associated parts. Removed Schrick 268 cams Refitted standar cams Put it all back together Removed piggy back chip from ecu, reconnected the cut pin. Got it all back together for 8.50 tonight then tried to start it, turns over fine but no spark. Im thinking its due to the ecu, one of 2 things. As the pin was cut and grounded it has lost its settings for the immobiliser, anyone got the procedure for recoding and ill give it a go tommorow? Other possibility is the chip on the ecu is knackered, will also try putting the rechip back in and see if it gets a spark and just runs poorly if the above doesnt work. Anything else to try? Im hoping its just the immobiliser but im doubtful as its not even catching for a second then cutting out like it used to when I used my spare key that isnt coded. :(

Will do. :thumb right:

Same as any mod, you wont get what you paid out on it by selling with the car. Ive advertised my car a few times as it is and had very little interest, im now in the process of removing the schrick and cams then will put it up for sale again. If that doesnt work more mods will come off.

Im over on the west side of Glasgow and your right, hardly any about here.

Yeah, I got them 2 bolts and managed to remove the other 8 round the edge without removing the thermostat housing. Gavie it a few gentle taps with a hammer as well but it wouldnt budge.

Bump, going back to the car in about an hour and could do with an answer on this. Cheers.

TAre these glued on with gasket sealer or anything? I started taking my engine apart to remove the cams tonight and this cover wouldnt budge. Ive just checked the knowledge base and ive removed the 10 bolts it mentions, the cam sensor and the hydraulic tensioner but it wont budge. Does it have to be lifted straight up as well to get it off the locating pins?

They might be new but is the front one standard or upgraded to cope with the extra shove of the charger?

Dunno, ive not actually seen the car but im not going to bother with it now. Might just be a cheap shitty runaround im looking for but if I get a gti I want a gti interior.

I thought they looked a bit flat but have never been in an 8v so didnt know. Anyone got a pic of what should be there?

I beleive so, heres all the info I have at the moment, probably gonna go see it Monday. "Its a 1989 (F Reg) Golf Gti Mk2 8V, Rainbow trim interior, Pirelli P Slot Alloys, Full Service History, 10 month MOT, V5 Document - £600 & its yours"

Cool, ill check that site out. The car is completey standard at the moment and would stay that way for nearly a year, but then im thinking its cheap enough it could make a track project. Also might put my coilovers from the vr on it depending on what happens to that as well. :)

Sounds simple but couldnt you log the injector pulse times or whatever its called with vag com and compare with the other car? This would tell you if the ecu is holding the injector open too long or not.

Just been offered one of these for much cheapness, its an F reg, small bumper and from the pictures looks mint. Thinking about getting it for a runabout for a year so I can sell the vr and save for a bit, get a house and all that boring stuff etc... Anyway, suspension, brakes etc I can have a look over no bother, but dont know much about mk2's or the 8v engine so any help much appreciated. :)

No no no, not an option for leon, though it could make it to my list of options for if I sell the vr. :wink:

vr6storm, did you delete your post or has the forum lost it? It is my car that Leon is interested in btw. :wink:

Buy the vr for 6k, then a year down the line sell the schrick and cams for 1200 and spend 2k supercharging it. :wink:

Think ive heard of rear subframe mounts shearing off the chassis on e36's causing similar symptoms when there on there way out?

That the same as butanol? Weve been messin about trying to get a kart to run on it the last few weeks in work. Doesnt like carbs though so doesnt idle and gives a very pronounced powerband. Stinks as well. If its the same stuff ill find out where they got it from cause it was very cheap.

C2 also do head gasket spacers, bit more expensive but you might save on shipping?

If your gonna have the head off, would it not be worth considering fitting a head gasket spacer to drop the compression ratio a bit at the same time so you can use a smaller pulley?

Tbh ive seen much worse, would look a lot better if the number plate was moved up onto the bumper instead of covering the mesh I reckon. Not my thing though.

Id agree with most of what Kev says above, but ive found the Eibach front arb to work well and I always have the rear adjusted to over twice as many turns as the front on the rebound. I wouldnt mind getting a thicker rear arb myself though, standard eibach just now. How much did the front top mounts cost Kev? Cant see a price on the site.