Toad

Yes, technically you are correct. But the standard injectors in the VR are well specced for the job. Basically the injectors are rated by volume of fuel over a given timescale. Too small an injector and they can't provide enough fuel, and the engine will run lean, or the injector will be running at too high a duty cycle and wear out quickly. Too large an injector and it will not have fine enough control for idle speeds when very little fuel is required.

You don't need to increase the size of the injectors unless you are going Forced induction.

The wheels do look awesome. :)

I think the number of bolt holes is wrong.

That's TimG60's car, he owns the Salt bar.

I've got rainsport 2s on the front, and 1s on the back of the VR. The tread is similar, but generally the tread is closer together than the 1s. I'll try to get some pictures. It's really wet tonight, and they feel pretty good. Didn't push the car too hard as that would be very silly in these conditions, but they felt nice and solid. I've got a rear ARB, which might assist with the cornering in the wet, but I've had no hint of understeer yet...

X2 :lol: it's a new standard way of wiring vehicles up. Instead of using seperate looms for everything, there's a loom that runs the length of the vehicle and different signals/control information for various sensors/controls is sent down the same wires. It saves having duplicated wires in the car, and allows standardised controllers to be connected easily. In a tractor it saves several miles of wiring, and means that you can control various third party implements through the tractor's own control system, saving on having an extra control box cluttering the cab up and reducing visibility.

I've got rainsport 2s on the front of both cars in 15". Seem very good, took a while to scrub them in though. Was interested to see that the pattern varies as the tyre rotates. Some sizes have rim protection too. Downside is that they're noisy, but they don't seem to have worn as quickly as the rainsport 1s I have had in the past.

And to think what they ban.... :tongue:

:)

Have you got the original black coolant tank cap? Or is the O-ring on the cap knackered? Swap to a new blue cap.

Wasn't the 300SL the first mass produced car with fuel injection?

Errr.... Both? And I'll have refreshments ready for the donkeys.

TBH. The paintwork is still shit. :( Been driving the 16v today. Made my mind up as to what I need to do to it... New wishbone bushes, new bottom ball joints, new steering rack bush, new engine mounts, new rear axle bushes, new ISV, new rotor arm, new distributor cap, new front disks and pads. Just get it all nice and tidy, and driving well again, and then think about the ABF turbo engine. TBH, I really, really enjoyed driving it today, there's a bit of flop from the bushes, but I really enjoy driving it, more so than the VR. Just feels "right".

Maybe whip the fan control unit off and see if anything is rattling around inside it. Not close enough for popping round to fiddle around with it. Sadly.

I'd rather be sick on my own face than drive something that ugly. Sorry.

Hmmm. Sounds a bit of a bugger.... Where are you based?

Could well be... Jim had an issue with the pins in the connector.

Coolant level sensor on the coolant bottle. When that senses no coolant, or even when there is just water in there, no coolant, it causes the light to flash. IT could be the sensor, or the connection playing up.

Use the key to pull it out when you push the spring down with something pointy.

HAHAHAHAHA. "Morning". :lol: I just used a big screwdriver, tip pressed onto the top of the engine or the block, handle to your ear, you hear some mad noises doing that, sounds like it's running with no oil in at all :) I was just going to suggest that.... Yes, I can imagine that... I think that would push me too far. :cuckoo:

That ain't right at all Tom! ALL VW's should run with the gauge bang in the middle on 90 degree's - if it seems to be consistently higher or lower then there is a fault. I've seen/driven quite a few that hover around 100 degrees. At the end of the day we're talking about 3 or 4% difference and on a gauge that small, old and with such a huge number of variables, so is it really that surprising? My gauge is at 95ish when rolling on the motorway and 100 when the fans come on. i'm not particularly worried about that. Everything comes on and goes off, and the ECU says the temp is fine.

Looks really good :) Nice work. Glad you did get the rack in easily enough. Didn't think the UJ would bend enough to allow you to get it in. Good news anyway.

The yellow one. Yeah, they released a new revision which is black with a blue(??) ring. My new black one wasn't right either, so the one I've thrown back in is yellow.

Lol. Cheers. It's quite weird not having to work on the car every day now. Today, I worked on the car.... :lol: Changed the gearbox oil for some new (cheap) semi synthetic, and I'm glad I did, the cheap stuff I'd thrown in had picked up a lot of detritus. The gearbox was a gamble, and it seems it's not one I've won. I think the layshaft bearings are shot. Nevermind. Changed the engine oil too just for good measure. Done >800 miles now in under 2 weeks. Tank full to tank full on V power it's done 29mpg, I hope the new injectors improve this figure, but I'm not holding my breath. Put another tank of V power in tonight. Going to see how that goes, then a couple of tanks of Tesco 99 Octane, then a couple of tanks on normal unleaded with octane booster, just to see what happens... :luvlove: