Toad

The plugs are in the centre of the head, like the 24, and 16v so it's got a different head casting.

Bill, your automated VSR possibly for sale warning system is working well still I see... :D

There is a unit that cuts fuel on the overrun. I saw it the other day as I was browsing ETKA or something. I assumed it was a 9A specific item, to stop fuel ending up in the cat. My assumptions have been incorrect in the past however...

You've got some good points, but... With things like the crack pipe, they're a known weak point, and for me I wanted to make sure it wouldn't bite me in the arse after I swapped my thermostat housing and waterpump, so I did it at the same time. I also picked it up off a GB on here for far less that Strictly gimps sell them for. I also fitted an alloy rad neck at the same time as mine was cracking, again, because I felt it actually needed doing, and I could aquire one for a sensible price. As soon as I have the money to finish the job, I'll be going right over my VR, replaving everything I can, not just because, but I want to get another 5 years of trouble free motoring out of the car. I'm taking my time picking parts up at sensible prices, and I do all the work myself, so it's not costing me much in the long run.

K-Jet doesn't get on well with the cat that you will have on your later car.

I think you can get new plugs direct from VW. Either that or they're fairly common and you could snaffle one off a breaker.

As Flusted said, easiest bet is to fit your current injectors, ancillarys and everything from your current engine onto the new one and off you go. With KR/9A swaps you don't need to swap the management or fueling etc. I thought 9A bottom ends were worth £150-£200 these days? That's not too much... Plus you'll probably lose a few BHP with the extra restrictions of the cat. Keep the KR cams with the KR bottom end too.

Bood, (AB on here?) Had some on his rado. Think there's pics in his members gallery thread.

The rears aren't different AFAIK.

Looks like it might have an early metal rocker cover instead of the late plastic one. I wonder if he's had a different engine or something.

There were a couple of threads before about refurbing wheels... http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=71200 http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=58671 Dunno how much use they are to you?

I've done it, and I didn't get on too well. Personally I far prefer to take the engine and box out as a unit.

mine does exactly the same! If you have a late VR6 with 3 fuses in the fan control module, then this is normal, the aux pump only runs on when the ignition is off on these cars, if the temperature is above a certain level and is triggered by one of the sensors in the thermostat housing.

It all came back after some forum issues. How much would you want for a reconditioned rack, for a VR6?

Glad she behaved :) Looking forward to seeing the G once it's back from DTS. :)

Just buy a cheap pump from halfarts like Steve says, there's nothing really to fitting them!

In future, if you want to let the water out, you could pull the pump out of the bottom of the tank and let it drain.

I think exterior would be the best bet as, they're on the outside. Anyway. Not sure about the fuse, I'd check all of them for peace of mind. Check the voltage to the motor with a multimeter and the connections at the motor. I've got a spare one knocking around somewhere I believe. They're easy to install. :)

Why not buy one in KPH and make an overlay in MPH for it?

I can't believe this.... I've been using Albanian Windows PLC for years, they built my show winning home. I know all of Albanian Door Knobs PLC personally, and I'm sure they would never do something like this. Being well known on the sheltered housing scene they fitted brand new split handles and pop out windows for me at short notice and very professionally. Your uncles mothers step brothers cat is clearly a liar, and my friends in the housing community will be angry about these false accusations....

That was your old car was it? I cut a bit of wiring loom out and nicked some panels off it out the scrap yard this morning....

Basically you have the window mech with a plastic slider that moves up and down a rail and 2 arms attached to it so that the window moves up and down evenly. Attached to the plastic slider is a loop of cable which passes through plastic 90 degree bends at the top and bottom of the slider rail. The cable then passes into a gearbox with a reel which the cable is wrapped around. As the reel turns one way or the other the slider is pulled up or down the rail. The cable is only exposed between the two ends of the rail, and is difficult to grease at these points, and to be honest, I'm not sure how useful greasing this section is. Reasons for the motor struggling can include the 90 degree bends on the rail degrading and having slots worn in them, corrosion of the cable, the cable getting tangled on the reel, or the teeth between the reel and motor being worn. The reel and cable are greased at the factory, but this grease dries out and stops lubricating the cable. You can't get at the mech very easily with just the door card off, you need to pull the mech out of the dor (complete pain in the ass). I unscrewed the cover on the gearbox, and packed it with semi fluid grease from mower and power harrow gearboxes which I hope will keep my window mech healthy for a while. Eventually the strain gets too much and the cable will snap or the plastic elbow on the rail breaks off.

I'm pretty sure you can't just change the motor, due to the cable in the gearbox. I'd look out for a decent 2nd hand unit and regrease it (including inside the gearbox before reinstalling it. You'll have to remove the mech from the door to try to remove the motor.

Excellent, glad you got it sorted. Might try to link it to the other threads about this at some point to make 1 definitive rear axle removal thread.

:) I just need to rebuild my VR6 before then.... :lol: