Jim Bowen

i noticed on my recaros the other week that the function to raise passenger side doesn't work, is that likely to be a fuse?

i'm not really after coilovers, just a spring & shock combo really am down to -weitec -bilstein -koni i've had koni before and found them too harsh/firm, i just want to take the wallow out of the bends

i'm thinking of getting the weitec spring and shock combo? i know they a budget suspension, but would anyone recommend them, any reviews of these?

i have to press a button to get mine on, when it is on i notice the engine fans go mad and constantely flick on and off for about 30secs at a go never comes on without the button pushed in

Rather than make a new thread, i'll add to this one, and i'll try and keep things simple: Problems i have: -While parking and turning wheels i have a loose metallic sound, like a disc of metal wobbling within something -accelerating and braking heavily the car squirms alot -steering generally feels a bit vague over crap roads and round towns, if i pull out a junction and turning at same time the car just wants to go straight on, and the wheels seem to creak -when taking a corner at speed, something at the rear sounds knocky and rear wheels feel as if they skipping across road, also get the knocking at low speeds over bumps took car to garage yesterday and they having it next week to look if anything needs replacing, but i said i just wanna start replacing bits anyway, (the chap that works there is the previous owner of car) he said that the top mounts need doing, (he already knew this, from when he had car), i said could you do ball joints too, then i thought i should buy new shocks up front as well. Now after reading some thread here i feel as if the rear axle bushes need doing too :lol: before i know it, i'll end up with a massive bill, so need to find out whats most important. so now i'm not sure what i should get done first, should i just get ball joints, suspensions and top mounts done and see whats improved before i fork out for ARB's, rear axle bushes etc, not sure what other components there are i just don't want to get suspension done and be disappointed, at the moment i don't enjoy driving the car, doesn't feel any nicer than my corsa :lol:

its not a C cucumber is it? :! sorry to hear about your loss, i'd be distraught :(

plus with black you don't need to wash them very well and they stay looking black :lol:

10% discounts :lol: Everywhere does a 10% discount

well thats good to know, i think ill join the CCGB soon, as i want to buy a lot of new parts, suspensions, brakes etc, not sure it ifs just worth upgrading bits instead

i'm still not sure what oil to get, i have 900miles in which to decide :lol: i don't wanna get anything very pricey if i'm toppping up so often, i think i have a small leak

I have just been in today. The ticket says £18.60 plus vat, but with discount it came to £15.81 ish. It was marked up as over £20/5l on the shelf though :shock: GSF website says.... lots of confusing things.... between £10 and £10000000 I believe. i've bought 4 of them in 12months :!

i don't see how someone who needs lights for a corrado can go out and steal them from another corrado owner, the fcukers don't deserve a corrado if they can't afford the lights :lol: maybe they should stick to owning vauxhall astras

pedestrian safety, and crash impact zones etc are to blame :( i quite like the way its evolved over the years are still maintained its throne so to speak, "golf gti" is almost a brand in its own right imo

viewtopic.php?f=19&t=55834&p=693743&hilit=guide#p693743

i know the one you mean, but cna only find this

i did this recentely, yes there is a cable, mine ended up snapping aswell best to replace the whole assembly, i got mine off ebay for £10 Its actually not as hard as it seems, i was dreading it, but got stuck in and it was actually pretty straight foward. just takes a bit of working out how to get the mechanism in & out, i found not keeping the window in 1 position throughout job helped, i.e: as i was pulling mech down and out of door i was lowering the window by hand to help manouveure everything

noticed this on my car, might explain why i get through so much oil. I can't see it coming from anywhere above, certainly seems to be coming out of the joint in two bits of metal you can see

i started photoshopping this yesterday but got interupted and had to do some work :lol: i got as far as all black rims

thats good enough recommendation for me, is due a service soon so i'll get the lot changed, will it need to be flushed out?

exactly, you don't buy back something which already belongs to you. :shock:

that be the appliance that dries clothes whilst tumbling them :!

thanks for the comments :) i find the 306 horrible to drive, it makes funny noises, hitting bumps feels like your sat on a plate of jelly :lol: i want to get some better lighting in the garage, strip lights maybe, whats best? all there is at the mo is 1 normal light bulb

what make are those rims? i had some on a corsa :? they were called "intra" but i've seen various other makes that look the same? they quite a nice design, porsche inspired iirc pic of mine

seeing as i have the 306 to use for work i don't have to get the corrado out and as mucky anymore (roads to work were terrible single lane mud fest jobbys) note my buggered wheels i got tucked up on :(

i didn't want to post another thread so will post here i've been using syntha silver in my VR, but saw some high oil temps (122) recentely so spoke with an oil guy who told me this (copy n paste job) "Oh dear, you really need a fully synthetic oil to withstand those temps - with an ACEA rating of A3, min, ideally A4. The "mineral" content in semi-synthetic lubes breaks down at high temps, turning to solid carbon, and then blocks the oil strainer in the sump. It was this very problem which caused the 1.8 20vt sludge issues! Even with an oil cooler, the actual oil temps in the bearings will still be effing high. The over 140deg C is for fully synthetic oils only, semis can only usually withstand upto about a max of 120deg C (depending on the brand and quality). If it only reached 122dec C for a very short period (one or two minutes), you should be OK. If this was sustained for five minutes or more, I'd strongly recommend draining, changing the filter, and filling with fully synth."... can anyone agree with this, should i start using a fully synthectic?