was8v

I was wondering that too. They might just not bother advertising them for Corrados as they are pretty old now and I doubt they sold many in the first place. I guess it needs someone to buy them from halfords or something and take them back if they don't work! The best racks are the original VW ones though, I had one for my last C - aero bars and a perfect lockable fit. TBH my footpack has arrived and they seem pretty good quality.

Yeah will go straight on. Its the same but not leather :)

There were some 17" on ed 38 recently refinished in anthracite with tyres for £350, adapters 5x100to5x112 run at £150 or so. The guy had them fitted to his mk3 GTI so they should go on a corrado with adaptor. I was very tempted.

I had the same missfire plus white smoke stinks of fuel, was a duff injector. Whip the plugs out and see if one stinks of fuel. If so swap injectors with another cylinder and see if the problem moves to that plug. Apparently its easier to remove/ replace injectors with the engine warm. Probs best to change the oil after as the unburnt fuel may have washed down the bores.

Many thanks, will save me a lot of hassle if you've got one ) More than a bit of a pain if they really are unavailable... maybe when I find a new one I'll see about getting the old one rebushed and pass it on. Cheers for the help, -- Olly Um it wasn't the short arm I have spare its the long arm. So if anyone is finding the long arm obsolete I have a spare new one here.

And tonight it's quiet on the way home. :roll: Insane thing. So it's not much work to swap 'em? You just have to take the brake disks off? Might just go get a hammer and just smack 'em one... :) OOOPS I'm talking about the REAR ABS rotors. The fronts are part of the hub assembly iirc. Sorry for the confusion!

I had the same problem, car had new discs fitted a few months back and the ABS rotor was jangling around on the back, loose. The new ABS cage was a very tight fit over the back of the disc. Clearly when new discs were fitted previously they just hammered the old one off and it mustn't have fitted tight enough when put back. You may be able to bend it back to fit again but I reckon it will just come loose again. The amount of disassembly required means you may as well just order a new one (circa £11) then the jopbs done inside an hour.

I have exactly the same problem. I was going to try sticking a pin through the K line (grey+yellow?) off the ecu connector directly, hook the 12v and gnd up and try and read it that way. Didn't know about immobiliser or ecu relay problems, I'll give those ago first.

or when wet. Apparently the best way to show a coilpack problem is the pop the bonnet when its dark and spray water from a spray bottle arround. if you see any arcing from the coilpack or the leads theres the culprit. If that doesn't show anything then: remove the plugs after running to see which cylinder is missing (should be wet with fuel if its missing if its wet with oil then get a compression test) if its missing on 2 then it might be the coil pack internal breakdown (i had one go like this on my previous VR and it didnt show with the above test) it could be a faulty injector - I had this prob on my current VR, plug came out covered in fuel Worst case - it could be bad compression due to ring/bore/head gasket/head wear - get a compression test done

Undo the LV side of the coil pack then! lol I theres a similar LV (low voltage) plug on it, i.e. not one of the spark plug leads the little lead. Basically you don't want the coils generating a high voltage as it wont be used - this could damage the coil pack/coil or earth through you while you are messing in the area giving you a shock. And just check with your book that fuse 18 is the fuel pump and the bottom right relay is the fuel pump relay, if my memory serves me right it is. Its a good idea to: first take the fuel pump relay / fuse out start the car a couple of time with the plugs in it will briefly run using up fuel left in the lines. disconnect the LV side of the coil / coilpack whip all the plugs out screw your gauge in turn car over on starter until its not going up anymore (I did it 7 times to be sure) reset the gauge and take 3 readings for each cylinder and average them if the readings are all within the range 11-13 bar then all is well. If a cylinder reads much lower than that somethings amiss. In this case repeat the above compression test but squirt a bit of oil down the cylinder this will temporarily seal the rings. If the reading is unchanged then you have a head gasket / cylinder head issue, if the reading is in the normal range or above then you have a piston ring / bore wear issue. If 2 adjacent cyclinders are low then the head gasket may have gone between them.

yeah I just changed it - the left one shoulda been a 2.

yeah remove the bottom right relay and fuse 18 and disconnect the LV side of the coil. Make sure your battery is charged!

No idea, its what my draper compression gauage said on the dial

from my post here viewtopic.php?f=1&t=64323&start=15

The Bentley manual states when new the compression should read 11-13 bar and the wear limit is 7.5bar with engine at 30 degrees(F?) Mine made 12-13 bar when cold the other day - full results here - http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewto ... 3&start=15

Quick Q for MOT testers: On front seatbelts theres normally a little black stud to hold the clip at a nice height to grab when you get in the car. Mine is missing and theres a corresponding hole in the seatbelt. Apart from being very annoying is this likely to be a failure?? I need the car ASAP and it should pass apart from that so i'd rather fix it before I MOT it then faff around trying to get another seatbelt in the retest period. But if its not going to fail on it I won't bother.

Strange - did the MOT station do the fibreglassing? If so then thats very wrong. If they hadn't done the bodging, just hadn't noticed it was bodged in a retest then personnally I'd let them patch it up and forget about the incident, possibly try to get them to cover the cost of another MOT at a trusted garage. They have hopefully learnt their lesson. Technically they are in the wrong but many bodged repairs are easily concealed. Always remember a valid MOT is no indication of the condition of a car!

£12 for 6 delivered here http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 8040223970

The platinum tipped NGK BKR5EKUP plug are the OEM plug for VR6s. The platinum tip supposedly withstands deposit build up. I normally use BKR5EKU (the same without platinum tips and half the price). On my last VR I got a bit of build up on 6 (poss due to bore/head wear) but it still ran well with occasional change of no 6 plug. Maybe platinum plugs would have avoided this. Incidentally ebay is the cheapest source of both the above plugs by some margin.

Yes apparently the Vwspares ones are the pukka ones with the correct beru ends - a search on here would reveal. Leads for a dizzy car will be slightly longer and include a king lead, otherwise no difference.

hummm that is reading from my MFA without resetting it - I suppose my drive to work isn't really "round town" as there is no stop-start. An indicated 40+ is easy on the motorway if you stick to 65-70!!

I've read that some VW dealers will do a "cheap" set thats aren't very good - that may be the £50 quoted. I'd go with vwspares!

IIRC a full set of genuine beru ended leads works out at £85 from VW , or abour £45 from here: http://vwspares.co.uk/

VR6's aren't as bad as you may think on fuel, 30 round town and 40+ on the motorway. Admittedly it drops a bit when pressing on.....

^^^Thanks for the part no!^^^ Woohoo! it runs properly! I've not updated this for a while as I've been waiting for some more injectors I got from someone on here. I was waiting because I didn't want to have to take it all apart again when I found the injector was faulty. So re-assembled by cleaning the injector seats with a little wet and dry and greasing them up good and proper and they slid in nicely. As it turns out it only took about 10 mins to get it all back together (I didn't remove the inlet completely, I'd left the throttle and pipe work connected). I swapped by number 6 injector for one of the new ones. Fired her up and all is well. Except the slightly stumbly idle - first step remove and clean the throttle body and ISV (tose bits I didn't remove above, lol)