was8v

Nice price, I recently bought one used from someone one here and they are fantastic quality. I didn't get the short pipe to the left of the pic (the guy just took the system off a VR6 and posted it to me): Anyone know what its for / if i need it?

Lol, not sure what to reply to that...... :lol: Just though i'd tot up work done to my car as a record whilst it in my head :wink: . Major work prior to my purchase: Monroe gas shocks all round Timing chains and tensioners :clap: CAT 1 alarm Refurbed Storm spec BBS Solitudes New brake disks, pads and rear calipers Respray in original Schwartz Black Metallic Totted up what I've replaced since I bought it at the end of September 2007, it was off the road for 3 months from then until I got it running nicely. Bought with 110k miles on the clock 8) . Radiator mounting brackets (originals fitted incorrectly and bent) - how much for a few bolts :shock: Tidied some bodged wiring (old immobilisers etc). Rear ABS cages Rear wheel bearings whilst it was in bits - whoever replaced the disks reused the old cages and must have used cheapo wheel bearings as they were looking worn. Water Pump (x3!) :pale: Serpentine drive belt Standard leather steering wheel Standard airbox Leather Handbrake Gaiter (mr gaiter) Standard springs (had nasty GMAX) Both front calipers (stuck nipples) & new slider boots Wiper linkage rods & Lupo Wipers Replacement Front bumper Replacement injector #6 :pukeright: Dash out to fix heater flaps Dub Power red HT leads Oil + Filters a few times O/S Inner CV (had a little 'clunk' play and was dried up on disassembly) Starter Motor 2x front wishbones complete with balljoints and bushes. Plus new Track rod ends at the same time. Kumho Ectsa SPT KU31 Tyres Front engine mount Still to go on: Clay Bar and polish Magnex SS exhaust cat back BMC CDA Possibly some decent lowered suspension (although the current monroe / standard springs gives a great ride) Now has 117k miles ( 7k since february :shock: ). Sooo, even low mileage (110k in 14 years must be considered low?!) cars can be a little troublesome :roll: although I did buy it knowing it had a few minor issues. Since its been on the road its been very reliable, just replaced the wishbones etc.

Thats right (see image), although you will find balljoint bolt holes are slotted allowing a bit of adjustment, and aftermarket shocks usually have slotted bolt holes too allowing adjustment. I guess they are trying to get you to keep the wishbones effective length the same on both sides (hence the warning about ball joints), then adjust camber on the bottom of the shock only. However on a 15+ year old car that has been apart 100's of times, the chances of your balljoints ending up in the same place are slim!

Cheers, although it cleans up nicely the paint still feels rough. Just ordered some clay bar so i can finally give it the proper clean its been wanting for the last 6 months. Also going to polish out swirls and scratches with with Autoglym super resin polish and then seal with some decent wax.

Gave it a wash in a farm yard :)

My Mr gaiter one fitted.

Interesting to see your VR6 with an early spec interior! Yours has vertical vents and early switches. Yours must be a really really early VR6! Mine is a 1992 K also but has the late dash with horizontal dash vents and newer switches.

Sounds like my car when I got it! Grey ones do look mint - get those RX's on it ASAP! :) On mine, the control knob outer plastics had been put back in the wrong order (they have different cut outs in them on the back) meaning the little copper strip wasnt contacting on 1 and 2. May also just need the copper strip bending slightly. On mine the flap in the heater box had broken from its mounting. Dash out to get to the heater box and repair flap. You may be lucky and it might just be the cogs on the dial controls that have slipped/broken. On mine the top mounts were incorrectly assemled (spring plate down the spring and the spring was contacting the body). I've also replaced both wishbones and roll bar links, front engine mount and inner CVs to eliminate clunks and knocks from the front under pulling away andf over uneven surfaces. Easy enough to swap out! My oil sticks at 120 or so at those speeds, may be perfectly normal. Reached around 135 max on a track day. Dunno about this - my Toad is fine with the fans, your Cobra may be detecting the voltage drop and thinks theres a fault. Must have had a ignition barrel change at some point. Head off to the scrappy and get a few lock barrels from similar era VWs (mk2/3 golfs etc) to dissassemble and get a variety of sliders. They come apart easily and you can insert the sliders from the scrappy locks into your door lock barrels in an order that lets them sit flat with your ignition key in. Your locks will then work off the ignition key! Or just fix the alarm and live with it! (never need to use the key in the door).

lol, I had a 306 with bald rear tyres, now that was fun in the wet. I've never managed to unsettle the rear end on the corrado in the same way as I could my old MK2 GTI!

I guess the rubber rear axle bush will allow it to do that to a certain extent. But you are right its the same part as a mk2/mk3 etc. I always wondered why the corrado handling is held in such high regard when both the front and rear suspension are the same as MK3 Golf. The Mk3 is lamented for being a poor member of the family yet the Corrado is top. It must literally be just to do with the lower centre of gravity of a corrado and different driving position? I've never driven any MK3 golf in anger btw, I've had a few MK2 GTIs which are fun but just don't have the same amount of grip as a Corrado.

Mine was doing this, cleaned the ISV and its fine.

[strike:3mrlb6nx]Cheaper from VAG. £8.50 for seal kit and about a fiver for the little slider boots and bolts.[/strike:3mrlb6nx]

Yeah they are insane! Obscenely quick through the corners on track! Even a well set up elise can take corners at unbelievable speeds, great cars.

Tint spray has now faded on my lights after 6 months! Going to try the film next.

Turns out my mechanic (who had fitted 2x new wishbones) had managed to get the anti roll bar off centre, so a quick undo of the subframe mounts and a bash over did the trick to centre it up. The roll bar is very very close to the wishbones, though doesn't seem to contact any more (mines a VR6).

Anyone know the reason for this? Mine is doing it now :(

Never knew we could get an account! What do I do? Rign em up and say i'm a ccgb member and give them my number or something? Or is there a specific number to ring?

Thats correct 2 sizes of spring plates for VRs. (all VRs had 'late' top mounts).

Imagine as you add more camber at the shock bolts, you are effectively pivoting the hub on the balljoint, pushing the hub further out, and in doing that the amount of toe-out is increased. :salute:

Highlights theres not much difference between them. Maybe they are saving the "big gob" for a high performance version - R36???

But as you adjust the camber, this affects the toe too. I think its best to check/adjust the camber, then check/adjust the toe. Then check the camber is still correct and repeat if necessary eventually you will bring it to spec. Then drive round the block to let everything settle and re-check both.

http://www.vwspares.co.uk/product_info. ... cts_id=574

The way i'd do it now would be myself and I'd make up a tracking rod like this: http://clubgti.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=169701 And set the camber first using something like this: http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread ... ost1262626 Rather than get messed around at a variety of garages and tyre places with them messing it all up.

Ah OK cheers. I bought soem wishbones cheaper than my mechanic could get them and gave them to him to fit. Everything seems OK but he never menetioned anything about a sleeve or any issues witht he bolt fitment. He should have noticed when setting the tracking if there was play, but he has been wrong before. Looks like we are ok :)