Henny

damn, I replied to this yesterday, but my internet connection fell over again... :roll: Right, just 'cos you've not touched the lambda or it's wiring, doesn't mean that you haven't upset it by moving the exhaust system while fitting the new bits... ;) The wiring gets somewhat fragile with the heat off the exhaust and simply moving it further than it normally moves can cause the wires to crack, break or just loose connectivity... All I'm saying is to check it out 'cos it sounds like a lambda sensor fault to me... ;)

TomB, ta for the offer.... She'll be built over a series of evenings and weekends as and when I get the time/the money/enough bits to build her!

guys? I'm on about the 2.0 TDI which I'm planning on fitting into J-DUB... There's some german tuners that have got SERIOUSLY silly power out of 'em already who I intend to make good friends with... ;) :twisted: 8) I'll be happy with the standard performance out of a GTTDI to be honest as it's only going to be a daily driver car so I can save H-YYU as my weekend/track toy... 8)

No rear lights at all? sounds like a broken earthing point in the boot then... bet the rear fogs still work as well as the numberplate lights though... ;) Trace the brown wires back through the loom and find where they're broken or have become disconnected from the earthing point...

bad fuel consumption and backfiring after fitting an exhaust? that'll be a disconnected/damaged lambda sensor then... ;)

Welcome to The Forum R1-Jay, I'm with Steve on the rack being a pain to do... I'm lucky in that there's no engine in the bay to get in my way, but otherwise it looks like a real sod to change... :|

well, just about all of the G60s have 8 valves... ;) :lol:

J-DUB's still running it's original heater matrix.... 250,000 miles+ and it's still good... 8) IMHO, it's got a lot to do with how the car's been treated over it's life too, regular services to keep the coolant temps down and use of good quality coolant with corrosion inhibitor will lessen the likelyhood of a failure... Having said that though, there doesn't really seem to be a pattern to when or how they blow... Toss a coin and hope... :?

The early matrices didn't just let out steam, they actually exploded throwing scalding water all over the footwells which is why VW set up the recall as they were going to get sued for LARGE sums of money every time someone got scalded... :? The later matrices (fitted as standard to the later dashboard'd cars) had the safety valves built into them... They were also slightly uprated to try and get around the problem of leaks. ALL car heater matrices can suffer the same fate as Ady_G's has, it's in the nature of a radiator/heat exchanger fitted in this kind of environment for this kind of time. The thing is that it lets out steam which, although it reduces visibility, it doesn't actually scald you, hence the lack of recall on 'em... Even with the recall valves on an early car, the heater matrix can still get enough of a pin-prick in it to steam up the car, it just won't have the pressure inside it to explode after the recall was done... :|

bx means that Cheesy's typing too fast again and missed the O out of box... ;) :lol: ETKA is excessively expensive and only available to registered VAG resalers. PLEASE DO NOT OFFER PIRATED COPIES FOR SALE ON THIS PUBLIC FORUM! Any offers for pirated copies will be deleted from this thread.

the stock Corrado intercooler is approx 200mm wide, 250mm tall and 150mm deep (measurements are VERY approx 'cos they're from memory) The stock golf one is HUGE in comparison. It's basically the same width as the gap between the front chassis legs, slightly taller than the radiator and about 40mm thick. If you can get hold of one, the intercooler of the new Golf 20V Turbo/ Golf TDI 150 is a good size, can be picked up pretty cheaply and will do the job nicely... ;)

yeah, I'm just about scraping 200 out of my 12 gallon tank at the moment, but that's 'cos the lambda's disconnected due to some interesting running problems I've been having recently... :roll: :( Before I swapped the engine I was getting 320 before filling her back up again (around 30mpg average 8) )

G60Renshaw, lemme know how you're gonna get 40MPG+ out of that though... biggerbigben, I've already got 4x4 - in a Jeep Cherokee! :lol: Why do I want 4x4 on my daily driver 'rado which will do 25K mainly motorway miles a year and only the odd track session especially when I'd be loosing fuel economy with no real advantage to the kind of driving I do... ;) :lol: TDI all the way for me from now on... 8)

UK cars should read either 15 or 12 at the top mark of the fuel gauge... Euro cars read in litres like Nige's JET used to. American cars have different markings due to the smaller US gallon.

beavis, :lol:

saysomestuff, as standard, anything between 100 and 180 depending on the base engine, but then you can mess with the chip and get 'em upto around 230bhp with around 450LBFt torque! :twisted: It's not the BHP that makes the TDI attractive, it's the sheer torque they make and the fact that they can still give you over 40MPG! 8)

you can do, but you don't NEED 'em... ;)

And this from one of the people saying that I'd be mad to put a TDI into J-DUB... ;) :twisted: :lol: The only worry I have about doing my TDI conversion is that it's gonna end up being quicker than H-YYU... :| :lol: anyway, back on topic... Best engine for a Corrado? One which works... :lol: dinkus pretty much summed it up with his post, but there's other things to take into account too... 8V/16V WAY lower running costs for the engine than ANY of the other corrados, spare parts are MUCH cheaper and a spare engine will only cost a couple of hundred quid! G60 and VR6 seem to have similar running costs from the engine point of view, with the G60 needing the charger to be rebuilt at reasonable intervals, but the VR6s are starting to need the timing chains replacing at quite a cost... At the end of the day, it depends what you want the car for, how many miles you're gonna be driving, and what you budget is... If I was buying a Corrado now, I'd be getting a nice straight early 16V and dropping in a TDI or 20VT to be honest... As much as I LOVE my G60, the draw of a 20VT or TDI is too much to resist these days... :|

randal, Looks great matey! 8) Can't wait to see it in the flesh...

CaiosG60 PWR, it's running a turbo mate... no need for boost recirc'! :lol:

gradeAfailure, ummm... I just use ones that fit... :oops: Never really taken much notice of what sizes they are, but I'm pretty sure the ones I use are imperial anyway... :roll: :lol:

DANG60, a sore face from grinning is the only downside of the 1.9 conversion I've found so far... :lol: I got: Increased torque all the way through the rev range. Increased BHP at the top end (especially if you get the lot lightened and balanced while it's all apart ;) ) Better drivability and mid range GRUNT... Lots and lots of grins! :lol: Not yet sure on actual numbers 'cos when I had it rolling roaded I was a tooth out on the cam (198Lb/Ft and 219Bhp IIRC) and I've yet to get it onto another set of rollers now that she's set up properly again... :oops:

:iamwithstupid: I'll echo what Gav just said... 8) (is there an echo in here???)

H8RRA, not yet, he's still trying to get the GB stamp for 'em AFAIK...

Welcome to The Forum... Nice looking early C you have there... 8) Where did you get your numberplates from? They're pretty much what I'm after... 8)