Henny

bristolbaron, ah-ha! name+face now... sorry about that... 8) Are you going to E38? That's the next one I'll be at... 8)

cool, time for a visit I think.... do you have his address and can you PM me it please Gav? 8)

Petrol Head G60 Cab, normally dead lambdas cause the ECU to overfuel, not underfuel, but, as it does aid control of the fuelling, it is possible that it could cause pinking if it failed in an unusual way... :?

Nah, that was on the old MKI and some early MKII Golfs... The heater matrix on the Corrado is PERMANENTLY in the coolant circuit, all the heater controls do is change whether the airflow goes through the matrix or not... 8) Some people still say that you HAVE to put it onto the hot setting, but they're wrong... ;)

:lol: 8) sorry, just in a silly mood today... been in FAR too many meetings this week and have finally got a desk day today... (so obviously, I've skived all day and played on the internet... ;) :twisted: :lol: )

GSF or ECP will do it cheaper... no idea how long it'll last though... :|

heat exchanger as in heater matrix? With it all drained, I'd disconnect the 2 pipes that go through the bulkhead and shove a hose pipe in to one of 'em... you get the idea... ;) :lol:

10 litres of coolant?!? Woah... that's a lot... The G60 only needs around 4 or 5... If you're gonna fill it 50/50 then cool, that'll be fine (personally, I use 30/70 'cos it doesn't get THAT cold in the UK) just do a litre of water to each litre of G12+ so you don't end up with too much G12+ in there... (not trying to teach you to suck eggs by the way, just making sure that no silly mistakes are made... 8) )

Ok, having looked at that page, I'm damned if I can work out WTF that switch is for... The rad switch and thermostat are obvious. The pulley is obvious, and from the sound of it, they reroute the ISV back onto the inlet to the throttle body (hence the big silver pipe and the blue hose) but the only thing I can think of for the pressure switch is to turn off the ISV when on boost to stop it leaking.... :? Personally, I'd be looking more into how your engine is flowing rather than boost pressure... ideally you want a nice low pressure with a hi-flow rate to get as much air and fuel into the cylinders as possible. Hi boost pressures with low flow rates are caused by obstructions... I don't think that this will help any idle stabilisation problems you're having, but it shouldn't make 'em any worse... General consensus in Euro tuning circles is that this isn't the way to deal with boost bleeding and that there are better ways of doing it... G-Man is you man to talk to about it 'cos he's been working on a few ways of getting around the problem IIRC... 8)

*sulks in corner*

5? you only need one or two maximum! :crazyeyes: running it on pure G12+ will actually cause it to run hotter than it should! Whenever I've flushed a coolant system I disconnect the radiator at the top and bottom hoses and connect a hose pipe to the lower pipe and flush it through until it runs completely clear from the top hose... Then I put the hose onto the top pipe and do the same again... Then do the same to the radiator... 8)

ah... I'll get my coat at that point then.... :oops: :roll: *skulks off muttering about only trying to cheer people up....*

Nick_Micouris, some places have been known to sell it without telling people of the dangers of mixing the 2 types... :mad: VAG won't supply it anymore... 8) That gunk does look very much like the gunk you get when you mix the two though... and the fact that it's on the lines to/from the heater matrix which is one of the lowest points in the coolant system and doesn't tend to drain properly unless you flush the system through with a hosepipe, you can see where we were coming from... 8) If it's not G12/G11 gunk, and it's not RadWeld, then, to be honest, fuctifino.... :? Does it smell?

Nope, you've got the best of both worlds... the later body shape and bigger petrol tank with heater controls that actually work... ;) 8) See it as a positive thing... 8)

Dixxy, get a spline drive tool (like an allen key, but with 20 splines around the outside) Soak the bolts in some "plus gas" (like WD40 on steroids) and then hammer the spline drive in if it rounds out with an allen key... ;) They're the same one as is used on driveshaft to gearbox bolts IIRC... 8)

is this the green one with the re-located front numberplate? Looked nice and certainly went well if it is... 8)

please tell me you just forgot to put the + on the end of the G12 in that last post? If not then this could well be the gunk you get if you mix G11 and G12... :| Does your heater still work?

scarlett, they introduced the later body first as they realised they were gonna have to do something different to the shell and wings to get the VR6 engine and suspension in (hence bulged bonnet for taller engine and flared arches for PLUS suspension). It made sense to start manufacturing the new parts before launch of the new engine so that they weren't making 2 different types of the same part as they were already loosing money on the Corrado at this point... At the same time they also introduced the 3 slat grille, different fogs/indicators and headlamps and also changed the bumpers slightly (they're very slightly wider and have a different trim line on 'em) so that they could advertise it as a face lift... ;) J-DUB ('92) has a late body, H-YYU (late '91) has an early body... The very first VR6s got the early interior too (including the Campaign models) and they switched to the later interior around '93 IIRC... around the time they introduced the MKIII Golf which a large amount of the late interior is based on...

Most dealerships add a tub of RadWeld (or similar) to new cars when they get them... Just 'cos you've never added it, doesn't mean that there's none in your coolant system unless you've drained it and refilled it yourself... :?

wait 'til Phat gets his up and running... Should be an interesting match... 8) Oh, and Biggerbigbigbignameblokeben's isn't exactly going to be a slow coach either... 8)

OK, in order: Flowed = abbreviation for Gas flowed = machining the item so that it allows the gas travelling through it to have as smooth a path through as possible. This can include "knife edging" where any obstacles in the flow are machined to a point/sharp edge and polishing where the walls of the item are polished to remove any roughness which can increase turbulence and slow down/impede the flow of the gas. Ported = opening up the airways so that they are as large as possible allowing the gas to flow through with less resistance. This is normally done before an item is flowed and polished. Sometimes also known as "gasket matching" as the items are normally opened up to the largest size that the standard gasket will allow. Lambda sensor = a sensor which lives in the exhaust system before the catalytic convertor. The Lambda sensor detects the level of unburnt fuel in the exhaust gasses and gives the ECU a varible signal to allow it to calculate if the engine is running lean (no fuel in the exhaust gas) or rich (too much fuel in the exhaust gas) so it can adjust the mixture and ensure that the car runs as efficiently as possible. Throttle bodies = instead of having a single throttle body feeding all of the cylinders as on a standard engine, there's a throttle body per cylinder with an injector per cylinder too... this can allow a LOT more air into the cylinders which can allow a lot more power to be produced. Most photos don't show them fitted with filters so the owners can show them off... normally a large filter is fitted over the top of all of the bodies, or a "sock" filter is fitted over each body to filter the air... 8)

that's what Rad Weld looks like when it seals up a leak... ;)

mk2_20vt, if that's how it works (and I'm not questioning you, TBH, I'm not sure which way around it's wired) then your post makes good sense... 8)

Awesome GTI would be my first call for getting this fitted if I wasn't mad enough to do it myself... 8)

it's a diagnostics socket.... Depending on which model you've got and how old it is, you can plug in some kit and find out how the sensors are doing and change some bits in the ECU... The domestic kit is known as VAG-COM