Henny

yeah, they're a bugger for just dropping dead with no notice... normally they do it when they've been dry for a while like if you're doing a cylinder head gasket... :roll: :lol: Glad you found what the problem was though... 8)

MKIV has airbags doesn't it?

the engines put out about the same (around 136bhp) from the factory due to the extra emission junk added to the 2.0... :roll: They're both much fun though... 8) The door handles have a weak point in their design where the stiker pin which presses the release mechanism cracks and eventually shears off leaving you with a non-working exterior door handle... Daves16V makes a repair kit which looks to be spot on... 8)

I've always used white grease on the spoiler and sunroof mechanisms... don't use WD40 as that will simply clean off any existing oil and make it worse in a few days time... ;)

I used a new sheet of polarising film 'cos I couldn't be bothered getting the sticky stuff off... :lol: I used a single sheet of Red lighting gell (from Maplins) for the illumination. If you wanna go blue I'd advise using an LED as blue light filters will make the LCD very dark and require a VERY bright bulb to make it work properly...

The company who fitted the exhaust system before I got the car (begins with a J and ends in a sheep kinda noise) had fitted the lambda cross threaded... It took me 90 minutes of swearing and swinging from it on axle stands in my garage to realise that I was gonna have to take it to my mate's garage for him to have a go at it... :| We eventually had to remove the exhaust, wrench the old probe out, helicoil the probe's mount and then refit it all... I've done 'em in under an hour before now up on axle stands, best 2 tips are to soak the old one in plus-gas a while before you start and to have a small blowtorch handy to heat up the thread a bit to un-stick it... 8)

'lo mate... Welcome to The Forum... 8) I'd have been going to Deva if this pesky 3 week holiday I booked weren't at the same time... ;) :lol: Probably see you about at other shows though... 8)

you're powering from the wrong Ignition circuit... the circuit you're powering the relay from is being switched off by the X relay (load reduction relay) when you turn the key to the start position... Change where you power the relay from and it'll suddenly start working... ;) *edit* bum, that's basically what's just been said above... :roll:

get the car up to temp, then swap the blue and black plugs over with the engine off, but the ignition on... the gauge should start to work if it's the black temp sender that's faulty... Don't forget to swap the wiring back again before you drive the car though!

olly elworthy, ooh, yes... mine's about 2mm thick now... ;)

oil your spoiler motor/mechanism... ;)

Halfords do a range of own brand paint caliper paint in several different colours... their red is pretty much identical to the Brembo red when a couple of coats are applied... It's also oil resistant where Hammerite isn't... ;)

sad thing is that I knew the URL without having to look it up for both the images and the flash file... :oops: :lol:

that's how I wrote my first Corrado off too... :(

Did someone say badger?

easily worth what you paid for it, if not more... 8) Stunning looking car with a VERY rare pedigree... Oettinger ARE an aftermarket tuning company, but have a relationship similar to AMG and Merc, or Cosworth and Ford in that they were the preferred tuning company for brand new VW cars in the late 80s and early 90s... 8)

Phil, stick the smoke machine with a set of "spinners" and I reckon you could have just invented the next big thing in chav-land! :?

:iamwithstupid: Yup, leave the rings to the hobbits... ;)

You called? :lol: For the price of 'em and the ease of doing it while the heads off, you'd be silly not to change the big end shells really... don't forget to replace the con-rod bolts too though... 8) You can do the big end shells and the middle crank shells without taking the engine out of the car, leaving just the two end bearings un-changed.... the odds are that you'll find that the crank bearings are still in good condition and that it's just the con-rod shells that need changing... 8)

GIXXERUK, now THAT's gotta be a change of pants moment... :| :crazyeyes:

.........

as you lower the pipework to get it off the cat, you lower the end of the cat MUCH lower than it would normally drop, which is where the cables become damaged... (that's what happened to mine when I did the engine swap the other week... ;) )

also lift up the gear lever gator inside the car and make sure that the circlip on the left hand side of the forwards/backwards pivot on the mechanism is still in place... if it's not, then the gear lever may have moved over to the left a little and will be stopping you getting reverse gear...

Was the engine running? That'd answer 2 and 4 if it wasn't... ;)

the trick is that if you change to a solid front mount, make sure you change the rubber bushes which hold the cross member in place for new genuine ones... makes one hell of a difference... 8)