Henny

I reckon that they'll repair that bumper and stick on a new wing... 8) when you say the bonnet won't open, what does it do when you pull the handle? It could just have moved the wing enough to foul on the bonnet edge and stop it releasing properly... Looks nowhere near enough to put it down over... Still a major bummer though... :(

deffo check the shells then... :|

good question Jay...

doesn't suprise me he's been OK about it... 8)

I'm pretty sure it's 6 longer bolts with sleeves along the front and then 2 shorter ones either side (10 in total) although if someone with ETKA can confirm that it'd be better... 8)

Kev, I'm not sweating it, I'm happy with how the brakes are on both of my G60s (and my mate's MKII GTI) with the MKIV rear calipers and either the 95-> MKIII pads or the MKII pads (to be honest, I've not tried the MKIV pads as I've not needed to yet). I'm just really interested as to why there should be a difference in pedal feel just from using a brake pad which is initially thicker... It's one of those things that interests me and may be a hole in my knowledge/understanding that I'd like to fill, or a myth I'd like to quash... 8) As I understood it, the pads were thicker 'cos the disks were thinner on the MKIV 'cos the materials had improved. This meant thinner disks could be made to last as long as the thicker ones yet cost less to make saving money for the manufacturer... anyway.... Baz? You may find that you need to adjust your handbrake cables under the center console... I've not had to adjust the cables on either of my Corrados, but the Golf I did the swap on needed the cables to be adjusted pretty majorly 'cos the old calipers were utterly knackered and so the adjusters had been used to make up for it... Also, have you put the hand brake on and off a few times and pumped the brake pedal quite a few times while stationary too? You need to prime up the rear calipers before using 'em so that the adjusters take up the slack in the pistons enough to make the brakes work properly... 8)

http://www.gpcvwaudi.com 8)

they're OK, but not exactly earth shatteringly good... :| Personally I'd be looking for speakers from someone who specialises in car speakers rather than Blaupunkt who aren't well known for them... That said, I used to have Blaupunkt speakers in my MKI and they were actually rather good... 8)

yup, another one agreeing with your first post entirely Coxy... 8) OEM+ all the way for me... 8) J-DUB's going to be a stealthed OEM+ ...No badges, subtle "tweeks" to the outside looks (including a tow-bar! :twisted: ) and a TDI engine 8) H-YYU will retain her original badges, but will have a couple of minor body tweeks, the 1940cc G60 engine, Brembo brakes and modded gearbox. Both will be on 16" borbet C wheels and will need someone in the know to be able to list all of the bits and bobs that have been done. I think VW/Karmann got it soooo nearly right when they made the Corrado that it really doesn't need a lot to bring it smack bang upto date without the need for lots of bolt on bodykits and the like... 8)

CharlieC, specifics such as what engine you've got, and the underside of what would help here... :| To be honest, it sounds to me like it's gonna be the exhaust heat sheild that runs along the bottom of the center tunnel on the car. It's a thin sheet of Aluminium which is held on with steel clips. The clips rust, fall off and allow the sheild to vibrate on the exhaust... Good news is that the clips are only a few pence from VW... 8)

do you know how long it was running while upside down? Engines have a nasty habbit of eating crank shells if they're run upside down 'cos the oil pump runs dry... :| Probably worth taking the sump off and having a look at a couple of shells to make sure they're OK before firing it up....

...unless you've got a toothed belt conversion on your G60... :oops: :roll: :lol:

andycowuk, but the metal rings are outside of the rubber seal and so don't go anywhere near the coolant... They rust and break the plastic over time no matter what you do... :|

that's a manufacturing flaw... Where the sheild has been welded on it's weakened the stainless pipe which has allowed it to crack. You should have no problem getting a replacement from Milltek as it's obvious what the problem is. Have a word with John and I'm sure he'll sort you out. 8)

Phil K, yeah, that comment about the illumination p!ssed me off too... I'm pretty sure I was first on this forum (other than Oichan who's just flipping amazing! :notworthy: ) to have the reverse LCDs and red illuminated switches... hell, I had that all that in my MKI (except the reverse LCDs) 10 years ago! :roll: It annoyed me more because Elliot from PVW actually commented on the illumination on J-DUB when we were at Bruntingthorpe last year... :roll: :mad: At the end of the day, all cars will have flaws to them unless they've had a full nut and bolt rebuild... My engine was spotless when I installed it in J-DUB last year and it's already looking a little tatty only a year on now that it's in H-YYU... As you use a car, tatty bits develop, that's the nature of cars... especially when you put 22K miles a year on it! I'm probably the biggest critic of my own car out there, so anyone can feel free to pick fault with my cars... Hell, I drove it with a black front bumper for over 6 months, and as some people pointed out at the MK meet, a certain part of my wiring was a little on the dubious side! :oops: :lol:

I know, it's 95-> MKIII and MKII pads that are in question here... ;) The MKIV pads won't fit in the Corrado's carrier...

the standard gator CAN come off the standard knob with no damage allowing you to use any knob you like... 8)

yeah, but the thing is that you can't just go in and say "rear pads for a Corrado please" you have to give the exact year and model golf which most people won't automatically know 'cos that's not the car they drive... :? Oh, and I wanna know why I'm wrong, 'cos this is implying that you need to change the pads when it may just be the calipers that you need to change... I think that the original pads will work just as well... :|

oh, and as for the wet patch, is the water greasy at all? That's a sign it's got coolant in it so is probably from either the heater matrix or the pipes to/from it. If not, then check the gromets that go through the bulkhead where all the cables go through and clean out the tray where the windscreen wiper motor lives... They collect leaf debris which clogs up the drain points and makes any rain water find another way to drain... normally into the car... :roll: If none of those are the problem, then there's a couple of other places to look which can be found by using the search... ;)

it does the same amount as that crappy thing on the back of TTs does... bearing in mind that Audi spent a sh!t load of money recalling TTs and fitting that little spoiler, it makes you think that the little one on the Corrado may be there for more than pose value doesn't it... ;)

http://www.gpcvwaudi.com 8) Give 'em a ring though 'cos their website's naff...

billinjahg60, not easily on a pre VR6 model... The motor mechanism doesn't have the correct switch in it to allow the auto close to work... :|

...but the shape of the pad and the material the pad is made of is IDENTICAL... :? I know that the way they work is different to front calipers, I did hydraulics and pneumatics as part of my degree! The rear caliper pistons have a thread on 'em (hence needing a wind back tool) so that once you press the brake pedal the thread takes up the major slack caused by pad wear with the piston only actually moving a small amount to press the brakes on and return away from the disk... I've now tried BOTH sets of pads too and it made feck all difference on H-YYU (MKIII) compared with J-DUB's MKII pads... :| As I said, it's exactly the same as using a set of pads which have already been used on the car for some time... Can anyone explain to me why I am wrong, 'cos I'd love to know... :?

Voodoo motorsport or Designa dubs do the 20VT transplants lots at the moment and both have good reputations within the Club GTI circle and on Dubforce.net... 8)

You need the 95 on GTI/16V/VR6 pads as they're 1mm thicker than MK2/Pre 95/Corrado pads. MK4 pads are 1mm thicker than the 95 on pads, in other words, the pads are 1mm thicker (longer service intervals) with each model.... If you put MK2/Corrado pads into MK4 calipers, you get a mushy pedal.... I still don't agree with this... :? What you're saying is that as the pad wears down your pedal will get mushier and mushier, which it doesn't... Starting off with Corrado pads in a MK4 caliper will only be the same as using a MK4 pad that's been used for a few miles and so won't make any difference to the brake feel... :|