Henny

oooh, didn't know that'd clear Steve... good discovery there... 8)

yup, change the Blue temp sensor in the plastic flange on the front of the head which leads to the radiator top hose. Also check the vacuum pipe which runs from the throttle body to the ECU. This MUST be in good condition and exactly 100cm long else the car won't run properly...

There's a couple of regular posters on here who are police officers too... (and nice people with it too... 8) )

saw the red one in the carpark at Inters... say what you want about the styling and choice of glitter, but the paint work was sh!t hot quality... 8)

mid 15 seconds... I'll scan the slips and post 'em up when I get chance...

dunno yet, it'll come with a complete G60 engine with recently rebuilt and flowed G-werks G60, gearbox, engine loom and ECU and more new bits than I can mention from the top of my head... I'm guessing I'll be after around £3K for it and there's easily 4 or 5Ks worth of bits there if anyone could be bothered to split it for sale on Ebay...

see your other thread about the cam belt... ;) Basically you need a long ratchet extension which you feed up through the gap between the subframe and the floor for the rear ones and through the gap in that funny block thing for the front ones... you also need a deep socket and a wiggle-woggle (technical term!) joint to give you the flex you need to be able to get onto the bolts... Oh, and a BIG bar 'cos they're likely to be TIGHT! I've just done this in a carpark on a 14 year old G60 that's never had the head off, so it's not that difficult... 8)

yup, I've been told that you can swap the bell housing between gearboxes to make VR6 fit 4 cylinder and visa versa... 8)

if you go under the car with a LONG extension bar, you can undo the manifold to downpipe nuts and leave the manifold on the head... it's by FAR the easiest way of doing it... ;) The trick is that the middle bolts need a wiggle-woggle joint (technical term) up by a deep socket to be able to get on to the nut successfully... ;) Oh, and they're likely to be TIGHT, so use a BIG bar... ;)

looks like a re-trim of a late set of 8V seats to me... Nice though, especially for the price... 8)

Welcome to The Forum... 8) I've still got a MKI golf GTI I've had for the last 10 years, although I'm about to sell her on as I've not had time over the last 7 years to put her back together... :( Great little cars though! 8) Hope you find yourself a nice Corrado soon... 8)

they were probably just Zender Turbos (original name huh? :lol: ) with the Turbo stickers removed and 16V ones put on in their place... ;)

so it's a swirl pot then?!? :roll:

yup. H-YYU should be looking a little different by then too... 8)

Right click and save as for video at Santa Pod...

What's wrong with the "not Henry" avatar?!? Anyway, did I ever claim I was sane?!? Look at my post count and it'll show you there's something not quite right with my head... ;) :lol: :oops:

I normally mark the positions with tip-ex and take the bolts out which hold the cable ends to the selector mechanism, I also remove the bracket which holds the cables onto the gearbox as well so that they're completly free of the box, but don't move in relation to the bracket so when you bolt it all back together again it should be as it was before... 8)

sounds good... don't forget to get the suspension re-alligned after you've got it all fitted 'cos the camber and tracking will be miles out of line now you've swapped the suspension... 8) Lovely looking car... I've often toyed with the idea of getting some Borbet Ts too... 8)

it's pretty much the same as the 020 box.... are you doing this on a proper set of ramps, or on axlestands on a drive? Lifting the diff up to clear the rear of the engine's a real git to do on axlestands, but it IS do-able... 8) Major differences are to make sure you mark up the position of the gear change cables so you can put 'em back where they came from and to remove the clutch slave cylinder.... other than that, it's pretty much identical procedure (including the amount of swearing... ;) :lol: ) Oh, and don't forget to take off the inspection plates on the bottom of the gearbox bellhousing to engine join... ;) :oops: :lol: Good luck!

there's plenty of 'em for sale out there markymark, they tend to go for around £40 to £80 depending on age, condition and if it's a late or early one... Shipping can be expensive though 'cos they're pretty big! They're not too difficult to swap over either, but you will need to unbolt the bumper (only 4 major bolts, but lots of little bolts/screws where the spoiler mounts...) Good luck! 8)

Can I just point out that was the organisers, not Dubforce! ;) :lol: Good to meet you down there mate, you car's looking well nice... 8) Deffo the best car-bra I've seen yet... 8)

veeDuB_Rado, nice sig... :lol: £2777.00 ?!? Woah, that's more than determination... :crazyeyes: :shocked!: Looks nice... I'm with Walesy with the "return to standard to get LOTS of attention" type thoughts... 8) Good luck! 8)

weirdos... you're all weirdos.... :roll: :lol:

Got the same poster... 8) It's not BS, it's fact... The rear spoiler is just that, it's a SPOILER, not a wing or aerofoil... It provides NO down force which is why its supports are so thin... What it does is to spoil (see where the name comes from now?!? ;) :lol: ) the flow of air over the top of the car so that the aeroplane wing effect produced by the car body passing through the air is reduced (by upto 64% apparently! :? ) At high speeds some cars start to act as a wing (due to their shape) and can produce enough lift to make the back end become light which can make it twitchy and catch out a normal driver with BAD effects... The spoiler helps to reduce this effect. This is exactly the same reason that they stuck that nasty little spoiler onto the back of the TT where the Corrado got it's nice electronic one to help rear visibility when parking and to keep the drag co-efficient nice and low around town... 8) The Corrado was well thought out and designed to be a sports car where the TT was just a fashion statement... :twisted:

ONLY use VAG fluid in a VAG auto box... It's not worth the possible hassles that putting in the wrong oil can cause for the sake of a couple of quid... ;)