Henny

Who's Alex? (sorry if I'm being thick...)

Give Demon Tweeks a yell, they're normally pretty good for tyres and aren't too far from Manchester... That's where I've had my last 6 sets of tyres from... :)

Every car I've been in that's been fitted with Bilsteins has handled beautifully, but BOY, has the ride been hard! If you haven't got any fillings to lose, then try 'em... If you have, then I'd stay away! :lol: This is my own personal experience and I've not tried 'em on a C so it may not be what other people have found when using them...

:lol: :lol: I AM speaking to John as that's who's hopefully doing the build of my 2Litre lump for the my C! :lol: :lol: I know he had "an interesting time" :wink: fitting his bumper, which is why I am asking other people what their opinions are and what their experiences have been... I'm trying to do as much of the work as possible on my C as I used to be a mechanic and I miss doing some of this stuff which is part of the reason I bought J-DUB... It's also a shed load cheaper to do it myself, and, more importantly, (to me at least) I then know EXACTLY what's been done and how it's been done so when I'm going around a "track" :wink: at 140MPH I can do it in the knowledge that if anything goes wrong, it's my own stupid fault and not some mechanic I've only met once! :lol: Thanks for the reply though, it is appreciated! 8) Keep 'em coming... :)

As the title says... Anyone got any ideas or reccomendations for a front bumper that looks like the RS2 one but actually fits? :roll: And where to get one from? I'm looking at the Dietrich one at the moment... Please help... Ta! :D

A quick google search for "flash red" + "VW" says that it's P3G :roll: :lol:

Or worse, Jam on full throttle! :shock: :onfire:

Yeah, cellulose paints have a thinner in them/added to them that evaporates out leaving the paint dried onto what ever it was on. Two pack paints have two parts, the pigment part and an activator part. The paint will only "go off" (ie set) when these are mixed properly and then sprayed onto something.

Eventually! :lol: :roll: Skye: Just 'cos no-one else has answered your initial questions... 1) Yes, they are binary, on or off... not sure as to normal states though... 2) No, I'm not sure if they make a contact when at pressure, or break it... just dis-connecting them is a REALLY bad idea 'cos if it then develops a fault you won't know and will end up needing a new engine :shock: 3) See above... 4) No, the oil pressure and oil temp senders don't go anywhere near the ECU, they just go straight to the dash indicators... Just to make the point, I'm not sure what engine you've got, but I'm guessing at a G60 which is what all of the above is aimed at... If you haven't got a G60 then this may all be twaddle 'cos I've no experience with the VR6 engines...

Hey-up! That's where my C was from when I bought it... Weird, both the car and the wheels are from the same place, but from different people! :? It's a small world...

Looks good... Not to my taste entirely, but well thought out and it looks well executed. :D Where's the front bumper from? I guess it's modded for the side vents, but I'm after a decent RS2 style front bumper, and the fit on that looks good, although that could just prove how good the body shop was! :lol:

Just been thinking... :shock: (rare for me! :lol: ) To build my MKI golf 16V I converted the engine to be K-jetronic fueling, not KE-Jetronic like the KR engine is supposed to be.... don't ask why, it was a long time ago and was before the 16V MKI conversion became as popular as it now is, and I was working on a very tight budget 'cos I was at Uni... :lol: To install one of these bodies into a KE-Jetronic system you're going to have to make up a couple of little brackets to hold the microswitches for idle and full throttle... Not difficult, but you'll need 'em to get the car to run properly... just thought I'd add that before anyone spends their hard earned and then finds out that there's more involved... 8)

Hello Peeps! :D As promised, 8) the part number is a Weber part number: W155 50 901 (902 is the porsche version but I'm not sure what the difference is as I've only got the golf version) The box says: WEBER 155 50 901 Golf 1.6GTI 1976 Onwards Throttle body 90.0090.65 The website in my post above shows that they have 2 in stock of this type (which I know work well with the 16V KR engine) and 3 of the Porsche ones all at £110 each... They're under CARBS near the bottom of the online list... 8) Here's a couple of pics of the thing... The butterfly (choke) is approx 65mm across and on my new one (old one was stolen along with entire injection system off my MKI while it was parked up... :mad: ) there's a nice blanking bung that can be pressed out so that a 5th injector can be added straight into the throttlebody... :D The only thing I will warn you about is that your fuel economy will be close to ZERO MPG 'cos you'll be hammering it all the time 'cos the noise it makes and it's "GO!" factor are too much to resist!!! :roll: :lol:

The box is at my parents, I'll be popping up there later so I'll post it then... I got mine from a place online called "the carburettor hospital" who had a couple :shock: left on their shelves last time I spoke to them... That was about 2.5 years ago now though! :roll: You need to do a small modification to the lever (adding a return spring) 'cos the existing spring is too soft... Fart and you're at full throttle! :shock: :? I added a spring from a MKI throttle body and that sorted it no problems... It also has a neat mounting point for a 5th injector if you drill out a blank that may get used for a NOS injector on my MKI when I finally re-build it... :D :wink: EDIT! Oooh, I just found their address and details... 8) Address: The Carburettor Hospital Wits-End, Ulverston Road, Ashingdon, Rochford, Essex SS4 3JT Telephone: 01702 200549 E-mail: mailto:[email protected] I'll post the part number shortly... :D EDIT AGAIN! And website! http://www.carburettorspecialists.com/stock.htm :lol:

Ah, this is exactly the sort of info I need to know... Thanks, that helps with my ideas... 8) Dunno what the exact specs are for the bottom end yet... John (16vg60) and I are gonna talk it thru when he gets off his hols, as far as I know, it's the same setup that he used in his 16VG60... :D Oops, :oops: Forgot to add that onto the list with the temp/pressure sensors... They've all already been changed... :D (yes, I've spent a shed load on my C already! :shock: :? 8) ) Sounds interesting... How much?!?

As I said in a post above, some cars had a different inlet manifold to change the torque curve... Because Torque is directly related to BHP it knocked a couple off... The biggest difference in the C vs Golf 16V was the gearbox ratios which made the 16V C feel that bit more sluggish off the line... Get her spinning though and the C will trounce past at higher speeds and will out handle a golf with no problems whatsoever... :D

Depends on the system... There's a progressive way of doing it which is the expensive one and just adds to the power smoothly all the way through similar to the supercharger, or there's a staged system. The Staged system has a button which you press when you're at full throttle which fires the NOS giving a real kick of acceleration... Great for the thrill factor, but not too great for gearboxes and clutches! :roll: :? I'd want a progressive system if I get one just so I can waste the occasional Porsche 911 on the way home for a giggle! :lol: 8)

Really, :roll: we wouldn't have guessed! :lol: Actually, I'm considering the NOS route along with my engine rebuild so I'd be interested to see which kits people have fitted to G60s and how reliable/fun they are! :lol:

just to emphasise, the engineWILL drop on you We're not kidding either! :shock: :lol: Not that I ever went in a bit gung-ho and just undid every bolt I could see... no, not me, never.... thank god for axle stands! :oops: :lol:

Yup, they also fitted 'em to Jettas and Passats as well as C's and Golfs (my MKI had a passat 16V lump for a while :D ) About the only thing that changed during the run of the KR engine was the inlet manifold which they altered the bore sizes of to make for better low down torque for the larger cars... :) They're a great engine, but can be a pain in the backside to tune properly for unleaded petrol so they have a nasty habbit of pinking under heavy load... :? Best mod for money is to try and find a Weber "red line/fire-breather" throttle body. This replaces the original twin butterfly throttle body with a single 63mm butterfly which is around 300% of the original! If you can find one, it'll cost you about £120 new and will add on around 15 to 20 BHP (got graphs to prove!) to a standard KR lump... 8) They were originally designed for the MKI golf 1600 and Porsche 924 to give them a bit more poke... I'll dig out the part number off the boxed one I've got and edit this post when I get home... 8)

OK guys, I need some opinions... After my G60 managed to (possibly, not had a full look yet) destroy the valves in my new ported cylinder head after the crank bolt sheared, I'm looking to rebuild the whole engine to be on the safe side... 8) (especially 'cos she's done 200K+ miles! :shock: ) So, here's the spec I'm working on so far... 2Litre bottom end (based around original block and supplied by John 16vg60 8) ) Stage4 Jabba Charger (already got!) Gas flowed, polished and ported head (once it's re-done by John!) Different Cam? (dunno about this one, I do lots of town driving and need a decent idle :?: ) 3.5bar FPR Red top injectors 68mm pully and SNS chip New water, oil and P/S pumps (may as well change 'em while they're off!) Genuine Audi S4 intercooler to go behind new S4 style front bumper Different charger outlet (any ideas on which one?!? :?: ) Samco air hoses Samco Water hoses Mocal oil cooler New sump New gasket set (well, duh! :lol: ) New head bolts (again! :roll: ) All external bolts/nuts changed for Stainless steel ones New Crank cambelt pulley and Crank Chargerbelt pulley (both knackered when the bolt sheared :? ) All new belts New charger belt tensioner I've already changed both of the plastic water flanges on the head and all temp/pressure/knock/lambda sensors etc around the engine so they don't need doing. I've also removed the carbon cannister and put a dirty great hole in the airbox mated up to a pipe which will run down to the S3 style bumper's vent. Oh, and I've fitted a new VAG rad fan after my old one broke... :roll: Anyone got any ideas to add, or comments to make about these choices? I'm trying to refine the G60 engine so that externally it looks pretty much standard, but internally it's somewhat nicer than factory spec! :D I need reliable power and usability not just a drag strip racer for weekends... :wink:

The syncro meshes on 2nd gear are renowned for being a weak point on the VW boxes... :roll: :? It sounds like yours is just starting to wear.... Something that may help is to change the gear oil in the box, especially if it's only just started to do it... I normally use a mixture of half semi-synthetic gear oil, and half standard gear oil (basically making it a quarter synthetic! :lol: ) which is just thick enough to ease slight problems like this without causing too much drag in the box making more problems... Good luck with it, hope it doesn't turn out to be anything nastier... 8)

Find a local scrap yard with a few VWs in it and go raiding with your screwdriver! :D Pretty much all of the trim screws are the same throughout the VW range, it's just a case of matching them up with the correct ones that are already in your car... 8)

Cool! 8) Glad you got it sorted... :D Where's Road Radio at just in case anyone else needs 'em?

Testing mode? You're not trying hard enough if you don't get it below 20MPG! :lol: :lol: :lol: In my defence, I do have size 13 feet! Trying to be "subtle" with the throttle ain't easy with feet this big! :lol: :shock: Especially 'cos I wear toe-capped shoes to work! :? :lol: