Philly-R6

Don't know myself, but I found this post on here pointing to the instructions: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?104713-schrick-plumbing&p=1187326&viewfull=1#post1187326 Hope it helps...

I'm not sure you need to buy new rings and a tool. When I replaced my seat foam, I used pliers to undo and refit the hog rings. Just take your time - we are supposed to enjoy these challenges!

I get the bolt as N 010 215 27 "Hex head bolt, M6x15" from an old version of Etka. It may be superseded to the part number you got?

From memory, that is a breather to the carbon canister. The pipe goes from the manifold (as pictured) through the valve (on the suspension turret), to the carbon canister in front of the wheel. I can't find it, though...

The seat movement harness is very simple - it takes 12v from the fusebox to under the seats. The harness follows the heated seat loom under the carpet along the right-hand door and over the tunnel. Have a read here at how k6kny got on: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?79194-Kenny-s-VR6-Audio-Install-Completed&p=1093174&viewfull=1#post1093174 [ATTACH=CONFIG]95583[/ATTACH]

There is one on ebay for £60 - ending 22nd Aug 2018: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Corrado-ABS-warning-light-535-919-235-BA/323362706757

Pete, I had my bumper brackets blasted and powder coated by Stockport Powder coating in Hallam Mill http://www.stockportpowdercoating.com/. It was £80 cash for front and back (6 items) - and they are open Saturday mornings, too. Are you sure they are past it - they are made of a reasonable gauge metal, so may be worth seeing if they clean up first??

All your ancilliaries should just mount on the new block/engine. I understand @PeteMCR transplanted an AAA block and head (from a 1997 Golf) into his distributer spec Corrado. You will need the top chain casting (to mount the distributor) and the drive "fork" from the end of the cam shaft. Transplant all your sensors and engine loom onto your new block and it should just run. Take loads of photos as you go. Get a box of freezer bags/butty bags and label everything. Good luck - and have fun.

I know my next sentence is too late for you... I removed a stuck bolt by unscrewing the bolt until it sticks then screw it back in, and repeat. It took me a good 20 minutes, but I got the bolt out in one piece. Do not swing on the bolt as hard as you can, as it will snap. Just firmly unscrew it a quarter turn and then screw it all the way back in. Once you get a little bit of space under the bolt head, squirt a load of WD up the bolt to lube the thread.

I'm not sure the crimped terminals are gold plated. I can't find my OBD1 photos, but this is the flying cable from the car (to the engine) for Golf OBD2 - I hope it helps.

Attached illustrates a heater matrix in the air distribution housing. The two black plastic pipes poke through the bulkhead. You should see two coolant pipes [probably joined together in the engine bay?] which push over these and are secured with pipe clamps. Hope that makes sense...

There is a chap named rubjonny - a moderator on the Club GTi forum - who has accrued many useful documents: have a rummage: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B_V9-6xfgGlINzhhM2IyNmItOWRhZS00MzBkLTk2MTEtNGIyZDFmMDg0NWM2?hl=en_GB Look for something like g3vr6ecu95on.pdf - keep scrolling down, and more items are listed.

The hex head bolt with shoulder is M8 x 26 (item 3).

Have you tried the suggestions regarding the retrieved code? http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16885/P0501/001281

If you are near South Manchester, I can try and read the codes for you with VCDS ?

From memory the difference between Mk3 and Mk4 288 calipers is the pitch of the thread of the banjo bolt. Mk3 requires M10x1.5 HEL do them for £2.49 plus 99p postage on ebay - and you get the crush washers, too! HEL PERFORMANCE Banjo Bolt Single Stainless Steel M10 x 1.5mm

VR6 Lee, Do you want to try it yourself?! http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Immobilizer_I_Key_Matching_(Separate) I have VAGCom and VagTacho if you fancy having a go - although I've never done it before?! How hard can it be?! Has the immobiliser block been lost out of key 2, or does the key just need programming to the Immobiliser control box?

I have a Scorpion cat-back system available, if you are interested? The tailpipe is a twin DTM turn up type thing. It sounded nice, but it wasn't the look I was after... Something like this: https://www.scorpion-exhausts.com/news/throwback-thursday-the-dtm-upswept-exhaust/

Hi, I have a bracket left over and I have no idea of its original location. It looks like a bracket to support a wiring loom, but I can't quite read the part number: 358 ?924? 852. Does anyone recognise it? Where does it go?! Phil

Michael, I have VCDS and am only in Hazel Grove - if that helps you? (Mind you, negotiating the A6 it may be quicker to go to Nantwich!)

Hi Chris, I'll take them as both are missing - got to be better than none! I'll contact you directly for a total...

According to Etka, part numbers are: [COR/1995/1/21/24-00] 535 121 283h air duct cardboard (left) 535 121 282a air duct cardboard (right)

Hi Chris, Can I take the crack pipe off you, please? Also, do you have the plastic air guides (both sides) which screw to the VR6 radiator? Cheers Phil

The alarm powers the indicators, when setting. Aye, sounds like the fuse - did you check the flasher relay was seated?

Pc80, I've got a workshop with MJC Developments in Hazel Grove. I think they have a site in Poynton, too - but that may just be self-storage. The Hazel Grove site has allsorts of storage: 20ft containers, workshops (with electricity, access to water and rates paid by the landlord), industrial units. Give 'em a bell - they may be able to help you. Don't expect a £30 per month, though...