mikkijayne

They are standard M12s. You need three M12x80 and one M12x100 with a plain nut for the bottom rear hole as thats not threaded like the others. You don't need high-tensile, as its not under a great deal of stress just sitting on a stand. I have a set of bolts from an Audi A6 1.8T that I use which just happen to be the exact right size, but M12 threaded bar cut to length with a few plain nuts will work equally well. Thats what I used before the Audi ones. Edit - this is for a 4-cylinder. I expect the VR6 will be similar, but not 100% sorry :cat:

Could also be the ignition switch. Mine does the same thing when switching it on sometimes. I need to swap the switch out at the weekend cos its beginning to bug me!

Thats odd - I have the Goodrich kit on mine and it fits fine :confused4:

The two times I have tried to do this the whole thing has been so rusty and corroded I've had to take the whole pump assembly off and re-furb it :brickwall: I ended up disconnecting the rubber hoses to and from the tank and the front of the car and getting it on the bench. Carefully dismantled it (with the help of the dremel to get the rusted nuts apart :mad2: ) and then replaced all the seals, unions & fittings, and the little rubber bungs the pump hangs off. Assuming all the pipework is solid and the accumulator is still intact then you can do the whole thing for about £30-40, depending on what needs replacing. Its worth having a good look at it to see what state it's in and seeing if you can crack the nuts on the filter before you actually need to do it (be careful because there is a lot of pressure in there). If you can then great. If not then you'll be needing a shopping list and some downtime to work on the pump off the car. :cat:

Drop Matt at Adaptec Speedware an email - he has Design II adapters to do 4x100 to 5x120 :wink: :cat:

Before changing the expensive stuff I'd check the cheap bits first: Tyre condition and pressure Tracking Wishbone bushes (particularly the rear void bush) Tie rod ends and ball joints Rear beam bushes Also have a good look at each damper and check for leaking oil. If you've blown a seal on one corner (particularly the rear) this can give some very bad effects. If it is this then at least you only have to pull one corner to get it replaced under warranty. :cat:

All they do is trigger the central locking, so they'd work well with a factory alarm, but not with an aftermarket one. If you're going to get a decent alarm you might as well that do it instead :)

I've seen this mentioned on Vortex as well, with people modding them to make them sit even lower. I think one of the American VW specialists sells a special subframe too but I can't remember who :scratch: What few Recaros I've seen all seem to have very similar mounting points underneath, so if you're lucky the Fiesta ones will be the same and you'll be able to bolt them up to the standard frames.

Ah ok :D Use a G-clamp to hold the brackets in position while you put the bolts in.

Yes :) I have one on the TDI and it works pretty well. The range isn't as far as a factory system, but its good enough. On later cars it can close the sunroof too. Getting the key blank cut was the hardest part, because so many key cutting places are afraid of touching car keys :cuckoo:

Ooo they are a right pain - I was trying to get some out recently, which is equally tricky. You need to drop the subframe as far as you can. Support it in the middle with a good trolley or bottle jack first. Loosen the front two bolts by about a quarter of an inch, then take the four rear ones out completely (the two for the control arms and the two in to the floor. You should then be able to lower the jack until the back of the subframe drops by an inch or two, whilst being very careful not to strain any wires or hoses on the way down. You may need to disconnect the steering UJ from the rack at this point - I'm not 100% on that as the column wasn't in the car I was working on. There might be enough movement in the joint to lower the subframe enough, but there may not. You can do that by lifting the boot off the rack and taking the 13mm bolt out. Try not to take the UJ off the spline completely cos its a pain to get back on, but with the bolt out you should get enough extra movement. Once the subframe is lowered you can undo the 13mm bolts holding the arb brackets in and you should be able to lift them just enough to get them out, then the bar comes out. Hope that helps :cat:

You need the plain black from the ignition switch. That is terminal 15 and is live with the ignition on and while cranking. Black yellow is the X-contact and is live only with the ignition. It turns off while cranking. :cat:

I can vouch for that ^ I saw Nate's car yesterday and the interior is simply gorgeous! :notworthy: Actually the whole car is gorgeous - definitely inspired me to get mine sorted :)

Well the 4-bolt Ibiza is loosely based on the mk2/3 platform so they might fit, but I don't know for sure. The 5-bolt one is probably different. The Cupra R generally came with Brembos, whereas the plain Cupra didn't. What year is it?

Ooo nice! What sort of Cupra R? Is it one with Brembos? 8)

Courtesy of The Car Lounge: http://www.abload.de/img/fuuucrashocvk.jpg (posted as a link cos the forum says it's too big ) :lol: Your 'rado looks fab :) I love the mirrors and Audi handles - they clean the lines up really nicely 8)

:cat:

Bingo :cat:

Yep. Both of mine did exactly the same after the recent weather :( Just the drivers side means its more likely the door membrane than the rain tray as that is on the passenger side. Throw a bucket of water over it to be sure - you will probably see where it runs down the door seal to the bottom of the A-pillar then drips down the plastic trim on to the carpet. There are other sources of leaks, but thats most common in my experience. Dry it out as soon as you can. Soak up the excess with a cloth or sponge, and if you can get hold of one put a dehumidifier in the car overnight for as long as it takes. If you leave it too long the felt sound deadening starts rotting, and then you are in trouble. I've got one interior completely stripped and drying, and the other one to do next weekend :gag:

Nothing can get in on the roof - thats all solid metalwork under the rubber trim. The most likely candidate is the vapour barrier behind the door card.

40.00mm on my new ones

The guide pins that the caliper sits on are 251 615 219, £15 each, although confusingly Etka lists "1 set: guide bushes" as the pin and the plastic bush for £12 each :cuckoo: 4D0 698 647. The bolts that hold the caliper carrier to the hub are N 907 085 02 £2 each.

Not unless you are VW dealership :wink: Afaik all RHD VR6s have TRW racks. Its only the LHD that had the ZF.

Don't get anything with rubber on it from GSF - the quality is garbage :mad2: 6-12 months max before its perished and disintegrates.

Yes, and yes you can. You need to mill the 312mm caliper carriers to fit the 4-stud hub carrier as the disk offset is different. There is a thread halfway down the page from this one detailing how to do it Hubs & carriers, wishbones, disks, calipers & carriers, complete driveshafts, tie rods, steering rack, steering column UJ, arb You can get away without swapping the rack and just doing the tie rods, but I think you need a washer between the tie rod and rack to correct the spacing difference. The 4-stud tie rod has a boss on the end, whereas the 5-stud doesn't, but they are the same thread. :cat: