CazzaVR
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Everything posted by CazzaVR
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:lol: Spoke to Andy a few weeks ago, and he said he wouldn't be making any more :( . Each loom takes ages to put together, test etc and he doesn't have the time. Shame, because they're quality!
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The small pipe is for the pre-cat emissions test ;)
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He was young- not sure about the bike though!
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Here you go: Canterbury Car Colour Unit 7 Goose Farm, Shalloak Road, Broad Oak, Canterbury, Kent, CT2 0QE 01227 719955 Jacksons (near Skoda & Saab dealers) in Canterbury also have a good name- they actually recommended the other guy (above), when they couldn't fit me in at short notice, as they'd trained him up.
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When I lived in Canters, I used a guy who had set up his own bodyshop in Broadoak just outside Canters, Sturry side. He was excellent- bit of a perfectionist and very good prices. Can't remember what they were called though :? He resprayed the bonnet + rear wing on my black VR. I managed to scratch the rear wing within a few minutes of collecting it and when I took it back, he spent ages polishing it out and he didn't charge me!
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Amazing! I never find anything like this :(
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pipercross induction (pk223) or k&n panel filter
CazzaVR replied to chrisnick333's topic in Engine Bay
Thought the only induction kit that would fit a 16v was the Stroeve one... -
Have a look here ;) A decent exhaust + decat would be next on the list, followed by a flowed head. After that, you're looking at forced induction really...
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:( Take a break from it. You need some non-car time!
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I hear you went to Silverstone the other week? Yeh, it must make a difference- you're basically increasing the airflow by 200% with the 3 slats open...
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Noob Monkey, think people are on about the very late 3-bar grille (1995), which has the top two slats covered, so air can only get in through the bottom one ;) Did you also know that the screwdriver in the wheel brace has two ends? A flat and a cross-head? :lol: Apparently, it does make a little difference. Vornwend changed his to an open one and noticed a drop in temps...
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Have a look here :)
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Sounds like you're undoing the wrong thing :? It's just 4x 17mm nuts- 2 on each side of the cross member, as nocrap says...
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J18 ACC - '91 Blue Aqua Pearl G60, anyone seen it?
CazzaVR replied to ProdigalSon's topic in General Car Chat
Here's a bit more info. Looks like it's had the same keeper for 3 or so years :) -
J18 ACC - '91 Blue Aqua Pearl G60, anyone seen it?
CazzaVR replied to ProdigalSon's topic in General Car Chat
From memory, the guy's sirname was Taylor... -
J18 ACC - '91 Blue Aqua Pearl G60, anyone seen it?
CazzaVR replied to ProdigalSon's topic in General Car Chat
A guy came all the way from Swindon (or was it Bristol?) to buy it from me in Canterbury. I think we were the 3rd and 4th owners? Last time I did a free car check on it, it had something like 8 previous owners :( At least it looks like it's still alive though... -
:lol:
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Need Help quickly...Its broken again! Coolant/radiator?
CazzaVR replied to Jim Bowen's topic in Engine Bay
Also worth checking the plastic part of the rad where the elbow attaches too. This split on mine. Unfortunately it means a new rad :( -
Black Magic Octavia vRS Estate. We do all the long family journeys in this, and my wife uses it during the week. I probably drive it to work once a week to give the C a rest ;) Practical, yet fun and fast - provokes a lot of ignorant comments from people who drive Citroens, Vauxhauls, Pugs etc :roll: :lol:
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The ones from vwspares (AVS) are similar prices to the GSF/ECP ones, but are made by Febi, which are really good quality.
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Need Help quickly...Its broken again! Coolant/radiator?
CazzaVR replied to Jim Bowen's topic in Engine Bay
Did mine a few months ago. Took an afternoon, and I'm not very mechanically minded. I would get a rad from VW- try to get the Parts Club discount ;) and it should be around £120. Also get all new bolts etc for the rad fixtures, slam panel etc, and of course, plenty of G12+. The job is pretty self explanatory really. Take out the fogs and indicators. Then undo the 4 large bumper bolts which are at the end of the crossmember. Mine were really difficult- must have spent over an hour on these! Lube them up the night before and get a decent breaker bar (which I didn't have). Once these are undone, the bumper just slides out. Put some dust sheets or something underneath to stop it getting scratched if you drop it. Then, you just need to unbolt and remove the slam panel etc. Really straightforward once you get started. Worth keeping the old elbow as a spare. -
Hope you get it all sorted- sounds extremely frustrating :(
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Grrrr! Nothing's ever simple :( At least it should be a cheap and easy fix- just a tad frustrating!
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What about JMR or G-Werks?
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Thanks, A. Getting it done tomorrow 8)