h100vw

Cool, expect loads of screenshots, now I know how :mrgreen: Small things and tiny minds

There are no valves in the heater pipes. Unless you meant the bypass ones. Blowing hot all the time would be a problem with the controls or the heater box. What makes you say it wanted to overheat? According to VW anywhere on the gauge with the warning light off is normal. The instant misting could be the matrix leaking, ask Henny. His went on sunday. My syncro did one too, take last year, scary when you are in the outside lane :shocked!:

It is a negative temperature coefficient resistor. The hotter it gets the lower the resistance. Not 100% which one it is. I am thinking item 8 but it says it only has one pin. Best bet is to get the number of the one thats fitted. Gavin

I think it unlikely that any metal would make it into the sump through the drain. If the charger was still rotating at several 1000 revs then the bearings must be sound. Or it would have chucked oil all over the place. gavin Any word on the greman blower Dan

Would they quote speeds in KPH? Gavin

yeah Ian he should be OK. I wasn't sure what the fella had done. Gavin

I get a drill wedged in a vice and then use a broken hacksaw blade, 'just like my daddy taught me' :lol: Mind you that was on a mini, and the valves on them get well caked in carp. Some heavy emery cloth will be OK, stay away from the seat and the stem where it'll be running in the guide though. You will need to lap the valves back in too. Get a sticky stick to do that and some grinding paste. Make sure you clean the valves completely so no paste gets in the guide or in the ports. The young lad in Halfords had no idea what I was after when I asked for one 10 years ago. I can't imagine how you'll get on in the 21st century..... :mrgreen: gavin

You can't leave the stem seals. They cost chuffing pennies. It would be an hour to change them but then you should clean the valves and you have to stop somewhere. If you bought a head gasket kit then there will be stem seals in there. I bought my valve spring compressor from Halfords years ago. Get one that can be used on 8 and 16V heads. It'll have 2 different sized ends for compressing the springs. Gavin

Out increases the tickover, bigger hole for the air to go through. Need to do it with the BTS disconnected. Gavin

2 words, legal advice. I wouldn't say another word to the plod until you talk to someone. What did they say? Do they intend to prosecute? Gavin

Without any load it should rev cleanly. The BTS disconnect causing a stall would make me wind the tickover screw out, also the dropping right down and then kicking up points to this. Have you got the vac pipes on the TB the right way round. ECU to the top one. The next best one for overfuelling is the lambda probe/or it's wiring. Much has been posted recently about checking the output with a DVM. The output is steady until the engine gets to temp. Gavin

I'd be cobbling on some ABF bits. And throwing loads of money at it :mrgreen:

I wouldn't be doing it on Kjet too much bother. Far simpler to go for proper management. Sealing the airbox so the pressure doesn't leak out is a snag that comes to my mind. Ford got away with it on the RS Turbo, might be worth a look for inspiration?? Gavin

Remove the oil feed line altogether. Take the pressure switch adapter off the head and screw the switch straight in instead. I'd just cover the end of the drain line. I'd be surprised if it fuelled correctly without the lambda probe working. Unless the chip has been written to exclude the probe altogether. Gavin

Keep us informed Neil. :)

I saw that Rallye at e38 I think. The wheels caught my eye. It was some money though.... Gavin Is the 'do done yet?

Think they are 204 BHP. You are going to need all the gear from the engine bay unless you are going to use some form of management. I think the box goes on. Need to use teh VR clutch and flywheel. PhatVR6 would be a good person to check with. Gavin

I bought a few copies of it a while back. I used to subscribe to European Car which was very similar. http://www.europeancarweb.com/ Gavin

Ideally you need to get underneath and do a visual. Its the same check they would do on an MOT. Try and move the wishbone with a bar. The bush is a metal ring with a rubber centre that looks like a smiley face. The rubber detaches from the ring over time allowing movement in all directions. Especially under power, braking and cornering. In a straight line with a neutral throttle they don't do much. I have no plans for visiting my mums, otherwise I'd have checked it out for you. When the test due? You might be able to see with it jacked up and supported. gavin

Another one for you. To build pressure before starting, turn the ign on and off a couple of times. This will fill and pressurise the fuel line. Cold start injector is on the right of the inlet manifold, when stood at the front of the car I think. Gavin

#3 is the ECU temp sender. Gavin

Whats the state of your wishbone bushes? The rear ones in particular. Could be time for poly...... Gavin

Neil don't jump ahead mate. Get the head back on and start again. I am sure you are thinking too deep. To check your ECU I would fit it to another car and see what the score is. I wouldn't go throwing expensive parts at your own car, before confirming a failure. Fitting a duff ECU to another car will make it run badly but not cause and damage. Fitting a good ECU in yours, might damage it. You could replace a MAP sensor, not sure where you'd get it from though? I know that they fit TDI MAP sensors to allow the ECU to cope with higher boost, above 1.X BAR Gavin

Chris, That must have been out of print chuffing years, I had my first Passat GT 16V in 1998. I guess it was a 'workshop' manual, as opposed to the common or garden 'service and repair' manual, which isn't half as much use in my humble opinion. Gavin

I did get a Bentley Passat manual at e38. It would appear the only engine the spams got was the 9A. I can probably sort you with the info you need. None of the Haynes manuals I have seen have the 9A in. Gavin