h100vw

Have they ever worked? The locking pulse needs to be about 40 seconds to do the full closure. Has anything happened to the power in the car, dead battery or similar? Gavin

I have some MK2 lowering springs in the garage. Made by Nothelle. Gavin

Dammit, I hope the tyre was due replacement. I always seem to pick nails up in tyres with loads of life. Really sickens me to see it. Usually too close to the side to patch too. :(

Just thinking about the chips Neil, you don't wear nylon trousers do you. Static electricity isn't good for chips at all. If you have done that crank bolt up tight enough, I wouldn't go taking it out again just to loctite it. We are talking DX bolt aren't we? Gavin

No sense in changing those sensors just because they are tarnished. That won't affect the operation in the slightest. You'd be dull if you spent 24-7 in coolant. :lol: Save the money and buy lottery tickets or have a pint. Gavin

[quo Whilst on the subject, anyone know if it's possible to 'fatten up' and re cover a steering wheel rim? I had sentimental Momo recovered by MJ Interiors. He did a top job IMO but it was pricey at £70, Junior said it didn't reflect the time taken though. He does them in front of the telly on a night. I could have had a new wheel for not much more. Gavin

So to clear that up Neil, it'll run with either ECU as long as the Superchip is fitted in it...

If the pump primes then the immob must be disarmed. You need to confirm the sparks. Disconnecting the battery should be enought to reset the alarm. Still could be worth a call to http://www.electrosystems.co.uk/tour-home.htm Gavin

Hi Gav, I'm not sure I understand that comment. Are you saying that the alarm & immobilisor are two seperate components? If so why will the car not turn over when the alarm is going off. Also when it stops going off the car will turn over but not start & the red alarm light flashes.??? Please help I'm confused & I need to get the car started. :( The battery back up is for the siren only. You say it arms but doesn't disarm. Does that mean the doors lock but don't unlock? Once the alarm is set, nothing but the fob can unset it. The car won't start if the alarm is wailing because it thinks it is being done over. If the car turns over but doesn't start then there is a good chance that the immobiliser isn't in the start circuit OR the relay in the alarm which cuts the fuel pump is bad. Are you getting a spark when the engine is cranked? For Thatcham approval 2 circuits need to be cut. Traditionally the starter feed and the fuel pump. Some fitters may cut the ign live line which will stop power to the ECU and hence the fuel pump. Do you hear the fuel pump prime when the ign is turnded on? You could jump the fuel pump relay with a piece of wire to see if the wires to the pump are being cut or not. No noise but the car cranks would point my finger at the immob relay for the pump. If the pump does work then maybe the fuel pump relay is duff. It's really difficult to write down everythung that is going through my mind from a troubleshooting point of view, as the next step is decided by the results. Gavin

I always lie unused wheels down and separate them with a sheet of thick cardboard. Covering them up if they will be in direct sun is good, as the rubber is affected by UV. I don't let the air out though, just leave them as they come off the car. I would think they want at least 15PSI in them if not more, otherwise the weight of the others will squash the tyres lower in the stack. Gavin

No Rob, the MK3 engine is the ABF, got one on my drive a vast improvement over the 9A in all respects. Gavin

The MK3 engine is the ABF which is different to the 9A. It has 150 BHP out of the box and can be chipped to 175. Unless you fit the whole ABF then I'd do the modified 9A. I would stick the lot in and check the cams in the 9A and make sure there isn't a 9A inlet cam in it as that is a restriction. Do a search for 16V conversions. Flusted has done lots to his 16V. Gavin

A factory fit alarm should need no repair work if you are careful. I took one off my MK3. All the connections just plug in or you can remove the wires from teh plugs and reinstate the original wires. The battery back up will have no bearing on the working of the immobiliser. Gavin

Steve, you bottler, must have been that shandy I got you at e38... :mrgreen: You are right tho, it wouldn;t take much of a cock up, to be nearly a grand out of pocket. Gavin

They should both have an arrow on the glass pointing to the left when sat in the car. I had a LHD headlight in my passat for a while and aprt from dipping the wrong way the beam was as defined as the RHD light. Gavin

Are the bulbs fitted correctly. If they don't sit in the brackets right then the pattern will be distorted. Gavin

Even Homer J Simpson isn't that unlucky..........Got anywhere we can get a 20Volt alternator?

Sunday afternoon in the MK3 16V, heading North away from Watford as fast as humanly possible. Spot of rain, no wipers :cry: Lid off the fusebox in outside lane, daren't pull into middle lane in case I can't get back out again :roll:, passed to wife, which is the fuse for wipers? Careful counting produced a duff one. Where is the rear wiper? Fuse pulled and fitted in place of blown front one. Wipers restored but now the RH indicator comes up on the dash????? :x Had to pull over then. Problem solved before I stopped though, as the fuse blew again. Indicators 'op checked satis' so opted to crack on without wipers. Yesterday, I spent an hour under the bonnet. Although I wasn't too sure where the cross over was taking place. Evetually found that the wires for the wipers and indicators came out by the wiper motor. While pulling at the cables there, I got a good puff of smoke down below the flexy pipe to the TB. And the indicators went off along with the wipers, again.... After pulling the airbox out I found that the ducting for the warm air to the airbox had rubbed through the loom and was shorting out the indicators, wipers and an earth. The indicators had seemed to flicker with engine speed. Anyway out came the insulation tape and I taped the 3 damaged wires individually and then bound the rest of the loom up nicely. I have put everything back and paid careful attention to the routing of the warm air pipe so it doesn't get chance to do the same thing again. This could also have been the cause of the mystery flat battery last week??? Gavin

You can get them for pulling bearings out of blind holes. I would grind the legs on mine to get them in there. Or maybe a little heel bar would get behind it. Even a lot of heat might get it out. I have a can of freezer spray which is really handy too. Got to be a way of doing it. Maybe g60racer or David at KK will have a good idea. Canadians will be up in a hour or so I reckon. Gavin

get snapon off ebay and stick back on after you finish. Mine came with a 2 grand snap on box I bought. Gavin

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp ... ir=catalog with these jaws to get right behind the bearing. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp ... ir=catalog I have a cheapo rip off of this kit that would get that bearing out.

http://www.g-lader.info/g-lader.htm I got some good photos from here prior to doing my chargers. http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=668200 Go on vwvortx and do a search in archived contecnt for threads by g60racer, he knows a fair bit about the lader and usually posts plenty of pictures.

There's a lot more oil in that, than there was in my mates with 70K from new. This is what it cleaned up like. EDIT I think that heating the casing and a puller with a silde hammer would have that bearing out. You must have one Steve, as a bodyshop man. If not ring a Snap On man and get him to demo a five grand puller kit and then tell him you'll get one from Halfords.... :lol: The Passats not that shabby.

What is it you want from this next car Tom? Economy, a MK2 with economy, a VW with economy???? Got to be summat better than a 15 year old Golf that'll fit the bill. :mrgreen: Gavin

Ultra Low Cost Value Unleaded (50 RON) Especially popular with Rover Metro and Nissan Micra drivers, our 50 RON ULCVU fuel is made from refinery leftovers. This is a very inexpensive fuel indeed as it is actually classified as industrial waste rather than fuel. That's a top quote from Petrol Direct. :lol: Flat caps optional :roll: