h100vw

Dude, if the front end is out of control it's because the shocks are not up to the job. Are they part of a Weitec Kit? I have had several kits and think they are top gear. In fact I just removed some Eibach springs from my mk3 16V. My fault that the shocks were inadequate and not stiffly enough damped. Check the shocks Gavin

It makes the noise on the overrun then? My G60 you could only hear as you set off really gently, on a tickle of throttle. It was worst about 2000 revs. Starting at 1500 and going completely by 2500. The bearings in mine were donald ducked. Oil pressure gauge is what you need to check if the pump is any good. That won't confirm the flow is correct but it is a good indicator. Have a look on ebay for a VDO gauge from an AUDI coupe or 80 sport. Get the sender as well if possible.. If you see a gauge without a sender, I have a couple in the garage....... Gavin

Pretty simple. Just need a 1/4 drive socket set to get the few bolts that are shielded by the bell housing. Drop oil out 19mm, take off the dust shield at the bottom of the bellhousing 11mm, remove sump 10mm, remove oil pump 13mm. Doing a rod at a time. Undo the nuts 13mm, pull the cap and push the rod up the bore. Drop new bearing over the crank journal, with a good squirt of oil on it. New bearing in the cap. Refit and torque up as per the book. Which I cannot remember. You do need a torque wrench though for the first part. Also very important not to over torque the oil pump and distort the housing. Bigbluec may have oil pressure problems which don't need a bearing change. Oil thats too thin or which is very old may give these symptoms. Also if the pick up to the oil pump is blocked starvation may occur too. If you have the sump off to check the pump, may as well stick the bearings in for a tenner. Gavin

If it is the bottom end then I would think of the big end bearings. Not usually audible at tickover or under heavy load in my experience. Cheap to eliminate though. The bearings are just over a tenner from GSF and a sump gasket is about a fiver. You may want to consider using new rod bolts and nuts although they may be reused once on a G60 and the KR would be the same I think. Gavin

I wouldn't use one to hold a door open. You can get a fair distance on 30 odd quids worth of petrol, a much better use for the money. Gavin

PM with prices and instructions sent. The looms do just plug in, not using OE connectors though. Gavin

The highline would have a chip in the key, as per a cat 2 immobiliser. That should be enough to get theft cover. Gavin

Its VW in general really I think. Cant say for sure as it's been put with the unused desktop icon thru lack of use :roll:

How long have you had your motor? Maybe its the first time it has got this hot? It still sounds normal to me, with perhaps a bad level sensor?? Gavin

If you read the handbook it says the needle can be anywhere on the gauge as long as the warning light is out. Providing the expansion tank is full and the fan cuts in and out don't worry. Gavin

I have that book and enjoyed reading it at the time. Notice the publisher... Bentley Gavin

h100vw, what about the pint pot, is that right too :?: :lol: I use an anyway up cup. My chuffing teeth need sorting and I end up wearing everything I drink usually. :lol: Gavin

Andi, you even got the haircut right in that photochop :mrgreen:

Please stop it, you are embarassing me. :) I am just a helpful kinda guy. Gavin

:cry: :oops:

Thanks for the kind words GIXXERUK. PM sent. Gavin

28MPG, luxury!! :cry:

I'd be looking at the gearbox oil level. I can recommend eplacement with Redline oil if it's never been done. It sounds like the syncromesh may be going/gone onb 3rd. Redline was a night and day improvement on my syncro, although 1st to 2nd is still crunchy if you try and change too quickly. This is a bit of an issue with syncro boxes anyway though. It could also be the clutch dragging but if other changes are ok I'd look elsewhere first. There is also the front engine mount as well, which may hamper smooth shifts if it's fcuked. Gavin

The piston just spins in the shock body. You have to hold it some how. I use an impact gun which works without holding it due to the quick shocks it deals out. Gavin

Digifant has a map in it though. It doesn't allow maximum advance all the time. There are limits built in the map. The knock sensor can trigger the ECU to retard the timing, which is what I think you were hinting at. For best of all worlds you need the minimum amount of advance to get max power for the conditions. If 25 degrees of advance and 40 degrees both give the same power, then you should go with 25, any more is wasted. It is possible that flusted could refine the map I created all those years ago and make it work better for his set up. Gavin

You can read my comments in here Chris..... http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewto ... s+hardware Gavin

Should be similar to my Passat. Remove: Clocks switches stereo heater controls steering wheel(maybe) Bolts on each end of dash anything else that stops it coming out. Under the bonnet dsiconnect matrix pipes. Undo the 10mm nuts that go on 3 or 4 studs which secure the heater box top the bulkhead. With that removed you can swap the matrix. Refit is reversal of removal.......... Likely to take half a day. Be prepared for loads of new rattles and squeaks. Gavin

Get a new one from VW according to Steve Cresswell of C & R. He reckons pattern ones not that hot. Unless it looks like its a genuine one thats had the nuber removed. Gavin

I am sure you can advance VSAM like flusted says. If you couldn't though. You could put loads of advance in with the dissy and pull out what you didn't want/need with the VSAM. Gavin

Absolutely....but then the people that drive these cars and do these things don't have the common sense/intelligence to realise this, so let the chavs steal from eachother and kill each other off so the rest of us can get on with our lives in peace :D I think it was Darwin that came up with the theory behind that. :lol: Gavin