fendervg

Have good look on German fleabay - I’ve seen them on there before. But a good auto upholstery shop should be able to make one up for you no bother - they just get a big block of foam and cut it to shape with an electric trimmer.

That's what I mean - you'd want to be putting a lot of power through it and have a heavy left foot to wear them properly out in less than 150k miles. The release bearing and the release arm etc. are the weak points.

I think the 16v ones are still available new from VW (and they are similar to the 16v Mk2) - check with member @Keyo on here, as he also has a 16v GTI and may be able to help - I remember it coming up in a post before.

I guess - or have it so that your respray and options look like they came from the factory even though they might have been done afterwards - I don't really see the point. It's easy to fake service history books anyway - there was always a little side industry in blank books and stickers....and "dealer" stamps

That's the feed line - comes from the tank to the pump, then to the filter and then to your fuel accumulator. There should also be a return line that goes straight back to the tank.

Gruvenparts ones are nice to have, but not cheap - especially the thermostat housing. If you have the money you could put them on for peace of mind - but to be honest the original items last well over 20 years and at least 100k miles, so if you change them for new ones now you should be good for another long stretch.

Good advice there - the stock VR6 clutch is actually way over specified, and lasts a long time, so there is probably no need to go for a heavier one. With a turbo conversion, a limited slip diff would be more important. My clutch is still going strong with no noticeable degradation after 110k or so.

I know that! Was only joking - there's actually no way of telling apart from getting in touch with VAG to confirm. They look nice and would be very handy after a respray.

Perfect for creating a fake Storm!

Ha ha Daves16v - that’s exactly where I got it! [emoji41][emoji28]Worked a treat. I did try to drill one out before, but it’s quite tricky and easy to damage the rest of the mechanism. A reverse tap might work with the spring tension off once it is in.

I found the easiest way was to use a small punch or screwdriver to hammer it out towards the back of the handle, to break off the metal covering, and then once that goes, push it back out towards the front. The real tricky bit for me was to re-assemble the spring onto the lock tabs - if you can avoid taking this bit off, it's much easier.

Valeo and ATE should be good brands for the clutch slave cylinders.

Always worth doing the slave on its own first as they are cheap and easy to replace - if there is no sign of fluid leakage around the clutch pedal and cylinder both sides of the bulkhead. Bleeding is easy enough, either by gravity or with a pressure bleeder - there's a bleed nipple on each cylinder. Chances are you will end up replacing the master eventually, but they can be hard and pricey to come by and there are two different types depending on year, with different pedal rod fittings. The later ones can be fitted to an earlier car, but will require changing the pedal and some clips. Also, a company called Past Parts is able to refurbish both clutch and brake masters by boring them out and replacing the seals etc.

ARZ seem to have only left hand side ones in stock at the moment - https://www.arz-tuning.de/shop/en/Electrical/Window-Kits Having said that, VW Classic have the OE LHS mech available as well. They used to sell a complete kit - they actually come from the US, there used to be a site where you could buy them directly.

Slave cylinder on the gear box end is for the clutch. If it's a right hand drive car the brake master will be just in front of the brake servo assembly with the reservoir on top - it also feeds the clutch master via a small pipe from the side. You could have a leak or corroded pipe somewhere in the system or the seals have gone somewhere - probably worth bleeding the whole lot with a good pressure bleeder with some cardboard under the car to see what's what. The dash clocks is weird - could be the wiring, or the voltage regulator on the back of the clocks maybe. Is it the MFA functions (mpg, oil temp etc.) that don't work or also the rev counter and coolant/fuel analogue gauges? If it's just the MFA, I think it's possible to ge a replacement unit.

Get a fully charged battery in it as a first port of call - immobilisers will act funny if there is not enough juice in the system - that should let you troubleshoot from there. I find my battery, admittedly 2 years old now, will go flat in about 3-4 weeks of no use.

I wonder is it possible just to use the cover part from the Mk4 handle?

Just search eBay and the aftermarket sites - you’ll get one no bother. I think there is just a mesh filter and a flap in there.

Ha ha - I even know of some who still hoard parts even though they don't have one any more - just out of habit or "in case"....

Been there, done that - probably need to do it again soon - it's an awful dirt trap, and there is no protective lining on the wheel housing there. That shovel is scary - looks like half a rear arch's worth there! As far as I know you can still get the rubber boot and metal circlip that secures it - I got mine a few years back. There was also a repair panel available for a Mk2 or 2 that could be used to fill any damage with a bit of fettling.

Ah lads, we are getting very over excited about what is at the end of the day a piece of painted plastic - even looks a bit lurid to me. Steady on - you’ll be driving up the prices of these! Now if it was a genuine Pierburg VSR plate...... [emoji1]

Another nice touch was that the two trim pieces on the rear door card that the seat belts run through have a notch cut out so you can remove them without dismantling the seatbelt.

That’s the crankcase PCV valve - a common culprit for running issues and vacuum leaks . It’s not strictly needed and can be safely deleted and a catch cam fitted - I’ve never found these solutions to be satisfactory but many ha e done it successfully. The Ford part will be fine - the 2.9 was fitted to the Galaxy. You will also come across a few on fleabay.

The Bremen is lovely, but very expensive at the moment - I have a VW Gamma IV with green illumination and it's 4x20w, great FM reception, has an anti-theft LED, cassette for retro stealth, and you can hook up a CD changer or an aux input box at the back - I run an old iPod mini from the glove box. Also has GALA (speed sensitive volume control) and telephone mute. Previously had a really OEM looking Nakamichi CD-35z (second picture), but that got stolen pretty quickly when I forgot to bring the face inside one evening! It didn't have dimmable lights though or telepone mute, although the 40/45z and more recent Naks have those.

I have a pair of JBL GTO507c for the door cards - there's a picture of one installed a few posts back in this thread. They are from a set I bought to retrofit to a Mk2 GTI years ago, but never did. The door card speakers were not really that badly damaged and still working ok, but I thought they could do with an upgrade anyway. The rear cones had completely separated from the surround - flapping, so to speak! I have some tweeters for the dash, but the ones in there sound fine for now so they'll be last on the list. I've only tested the rears and one side so far, but they sound much better - hopefully should be a nice improvement when driving - I'm not really into ICE, subs and amp builds to be honest, but I hate crackling and popping an the twang of blown speakers.