volksworld13

i used som good quality thin double sided tampe by 3m , same used in bodyshops, cleane the door, as best as possible, and if you had a warm garage, stick in there line it up stick her on.

as a rule of thumb i always replace gaskets, if i have to remove them ect, some rubber ones can be reused, id def replace the inlet gasketr though, you dont wanna get an air leak.

thanks anyway buddy, fancy selling me your bentley manual? :norty:

all sorted bk/rd wire h1 pin 1, still no crank traced fault to ignition switch, !all sorted big thanks to yandards for wiring info.!

hi everyone need a little help with a wiring diagram, just bought a 95 vr6, will not start on the ignition switch, it has a dealer fit immobilser , with a fob you insert into the drivers side lower shelf to unlock it, and then put key in and start. i have removed this old system , but the loom looks so well fitted and splicing staright into the rear of the fuse box, all rmoved now, im left with the main satrter ignition lead black/red spade connector near the fuse box, but no where for it to go, as this connector was plugged into the old immobiliser system, has any want removed one of these suckers, as the wiring is well in there and i dont have a a wiring diagram of the starting circuit, ive read theres no starter relay? i have no ignition lights either, i have swaped the ignition switch with a known good one, and still the same, if anyone has a wirind diagram and connector pin out for the ignition switch to the starter solonid, id be much appreciated. the main red/bk wire is the solonoid wire ,but im unable to locate where this sits in the back of the fuse box? black spade terminal from the switch to the fusebox, regards alex

class!! def the penny trick

just reading that makes me mad as fu**. the way they talk to you, confrontational, ? what a joke.some things you just have to except!!

check the condition of the oil, and make sure the level is ok, it sound like youll be needing a new pump soon,dont leave i too long though as the pump can eat itself and generate metal swarf which in turn can wreck your steering rack.

that is heart breaking, but they say things happen for a reason, and things will change! you may just find yourself another really nice c, look on the bright side, your here to tell the story.keep your chin up.! easier said than done though.

try disconnecting the coolant level switch in the header tank, see if the lights go out, may poss be coolant temp sensor in the housing. they arnt much to replace.

what oil pressure readings are yo getting, is there any engine rattling or knocking, it could be a wiring issue, cluster problem.

just ring them with your reg or chassis and they can get one, vw arnt too expensive 15-20 quid i think.

yes i have an 8v also, i would interetsed, get some pics up and ill have a gander. :D

buy another off here im sure someones got a good headliner . i think it will be hard to get a good finish with fabric bonded on. :shrug:

so when you ask for a membrane, they are no longer available, im sure i remember seeing a roll of plastic sheeting listing instead of the ready made membranes, which you have to make your self.?

i think i may have the equivalant vw stuff at work, its very very sticky, and looks exactly like the stuff used from factory, will get part number and pic.

ok so the garage thinks its ecu, they have replaced crank sensor and coil.and still no spark, did the garage check the fault memory. the wiring needs checking from cam and crank sensors to the ecu, to make sure the engine postions are know to triger the coil. ive not know many ecus go down, but it could happen. alex

lift the lock pin up on the passenger side,on top of the door card and pull the interior handle the door will open.

in fact, you could try dent devils , check them out on a google search, maybe able to pop the dent out like james sed, i think they charge 30-40 for dent removal per panel.

try spraying bothe door handles and working the key in them, i had a fsulty pass door handle and it prevented the door locking from the driver side,alternatively check fuses, and remove door cards you can bridge the central locking microswitch to see which handle is faulty.

is the footwell wet, lift te carpets up at the front and rear and check, water could be running back from the front, poss windscreen, bonnet release grommet, door seal. :shrug:

thats so annoying ahppened to me to, that can get repaired, i expect to pay 150 ish for repair and paint/blend . other drivers just dont care,the corrados are dying out, its hard to keep them in goodnick!

the boot shouldnt be very expensive, to do it, the driveshafts need s taking out, drop the lower ball joint off the hub, the driveshaft nut off, and remove shaft. then the boot can be replaced, more labour than any thing.

snappy snappy.! :nuts: advise, buy some tar and adhesive remover , spray in behind and price carefully, can be tight to get off.!

car back from the paint shop, fantastic job, screen frame shot blasted and treated, and new screen fitted by one of the best at national auto windscreens. my advise to any one getting a screen done, get the frame inspected for corrsion, myn didnt go through, but im sure many are getting that way, total cost-£320 clean and paint frame and roof,trade price £75 windscreen through insurance.!! :D