steveo29

why not run a solid tenisoner http://www.s3i.co.uk/productPage.php?pr ... EyeEye.php

i mounted my relays under the slam panel and put them in a latex glove to keep em dry...on the conncetions you can use dielectric grease to keep the water from spoiling em

yeah mine rests in the dustbin now

it should go ....battery- inner wing- then onto a bolt on the gearbox, doesnt matter what bolt, although some had a stud /bolt for it

chances they will accept it..make sure the sticker gets a wipe with thinners, ive done it a few times and never been challenged and yeah...my golf used to run the battery down with short trips, its alot better on a 90a one

generaly its 65 on non A/C cars and 90 on a A/C car...should have a little sticker on it saying what it is if you can afford the 90a you might as well get it ...pick the sticker off and the dealer/gsf will take it in as exchange

have you driven it or just idled it in the garage?? ive had second hand engines that were rattley until driven

yes you deffinetly need the sensor in your exhaust cant say i noticed any differance when i did mine, but it cant hurt can it

gsf does the tensioners....but you can pop out the seals and regrease em if your not flush with cash

dont know the answer, but sinse your having to pull it all apart, then pay to have it aligned. wouldnt it make sense to get new bearings anyway?

have you bled the clutch?

might be worth trying the mounts then have you ajusted the cables and made sure the lever is central? it should push straight into 3rd from neutral without any side movment to be fair everything ive done related to mine made a small change, ive done mounts, new bushes on the gearstick and gearbox end, redline mt90 and the shifter wieght...and regreased everything *edit and its worth looking for slack/movement all over the place, i found places where i could fit a thin washer to take up some slack, seemed to help a little

my gearchange/gearbox isnt as sweet as id like it from my experiance, new mounts do make a improvement to the quality of gearchange...although i cant see it picking out 2nd gear especialy mine often crunches badly into 2nd , ive always assumed the syncro was past its best

2nd gear syncro worn out?? is it worst on a cold morning? gets better with a hot engine? does it crunch if you move the stick slower

if you turn on the ign in mine...it buzzes for a few seconds then stops until you start the engine never heard it pulse

yeah could deffo be the idle switch it should idle okay with the isv disconected anyway, its just there to smooth things out when its cold etc

ok the voltage reg is spot on , so its not that :( i was hoping to find the sender wires at the cluster plug....theyre brown/ blue and purple/black at the tank plug.....yet theres none of those at the clock plug??? whats that about? do they change mid way

im gona try a voltage reg anyway...my temp does read a touch on the low side, but i never thought much about that any chance when you fill up the beast next...could you whip off that circle plate in the boot and check the 2 inner pins for a reading in ohms please

ive been working on a polo with a 085 box....the handbook says GL4 oil , and i need a little top up, i already have some GL5 will that be okay??

someone has suggest it maybe the volatge regulator on the cluster...does that make sense?

How? By tieing the cord to the valve end, of fitting the hose over the end to stop it dropping? What about some mole grips with rubber between the grips to protect? Thanks Wilson you would poke a clean length of washer hose into the bore and then raise the piston...so that the hose fills any gaps and stops the valve falling in, leave enough so that you can pull it out afterwards

you can use a length of clean cord or washer hose to stop the valve falling out

why a passat? will that have the correct gauge i can swap into my mk2 cluster? dont spose your going to ed 38 ?

ok update time ive had a quick look i can confirm the tank is actualy full to the brim with petrol! i checked the slider thing for resistance,each segment reads higher accross the scale as you would expect and the float is actauly as high as it can go , and with the sender out and crank to the full postion it still reads under full so any ideas now? seems to me the sender is fine...and that i somehow need to calibrate the gauge and the sender together...mine does not have the ajustment screw

ok hopefully mine has the ajustable stop on it.....