VR6 Gar

If you can get them Ferodo Premier. Low dust, good from cold and not overly expensive. Ran them on my S4 and now on the rear of the C, great road pad.

Doesn't fit your criteria very well but I really like 335i coupe/ M sports ATM. Remap it to 370bhp and fit some coilovers and not only will it be practical with loads of toys but also a lot of fun when pressing on. Something like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/bmw-335i-coupe-with-many-many-extras-47k-390bhp-manual-/171259620382?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item27dfde6c1e

Think Dox may be right, can't see any other reason for it. You could try screwing the bolt from the other shock in to the nut from the back to try and push it through. Or lump hammer and thin bar/screw driver/drift it out.

After the locking nuts being too stuck to undo I replaced the inner rods. Dead easy and didn't take long at all. Today I replaced all the rear brakes. New Mtec dimpled and grooved discs, SKF bearings, ABS rings and Ferodo Premier pads. Gave the rears a bleed and bled the clutch too. Will give the fronts a bleed at some point soon. Decided to try and reduce exhaust drone a bit further by removing the boot floor carpet and cutting some domestic carpet underlay to shape and fixing it to the underside.

Cant speak for other variants but the VR doesnt come with a rear ARB, at least my 2 havent had them fitted. Neither did my mk2 golf gti. Pretty sure these cars only come with a front arb. edit. Just had a quick search and they did come with them, but welded inside the beam, so not something that can be removed.

Decided to put this up for sale due to lack of use. £1200 Fantastic piece of kit, 10 inches of rear wheel travel and 8 up front. Pretty indestructible frame. Only ever heard of 2 that have been broken and that was in really bad crashes. Try finding another bike this strong. Frame was recently stripped then resprayed. As such the paint finish has a slight 'texture' from the sandblasting. Should have sanded it down really before spraying. Easy enough to rectify if it bothers you. Painted with Acid Etch 8 then Upol paint, decals applied and finally a good few coats of Upol Lacquer. Hasn't been used since painting it in the summer. The frame also has a Gopro mount attached by the bottom bracket. New main bearing were used on the pivot. The smaller bearings on the linkage were in good condition so re used. Spec. Small Trek Session 10 with Revox shock with Titanium spring. I am about 5'10" and it was fine for me. Offset shock bushes and Works Component Angleset. Giving a relaxed 63.5 degree head angle. Marzocchi 888 RC3 WC forks. Hope V2 Evo special edition front brake on 225mm disk. Hope M4 Evo rear brake on Hope floating saw disc 203mm. Both brakes are brand new other than bedding in on the road. Hope rear hub. Cant remember the model of it or the rim make. Sun front rim on what I guess is a Kona hub. Came on my old Kona Stinky. Maxxis Minion tyres. 2.5". Rear is brand new front has plenty of tread. Danger boy stem. DaBomb Apache 750mm bars. Steve Peat signature grips. Hope bar end plugs. Bontrager seat post. Hope seat post clamp. New Nukeproof saddle. Truative Cranks and BB which has only seen 5 days use in the Alps. Middleburn front ring. FSA bash guard. Straitline Platform pedals. XT rear mech with Red anodised Jockey wheels. Home made rear mud guard. All in all a very well spec'd bike that will handle anything that can be thrown at it. Cash on collection from Exeter.

TRW for UK cars. i bought mine from AVS at £35 delivered for the pair, they are described as Meyle but came in a TRW box with Lucas in small writing, so maybe they are all part of the same company? Either way they are a piece of p1ss to fit so even if they decide to wear out in a couple of years I can change them for more expensive ones easily enough. http://www.vwspares.co.uk/corrado_steering.php

this is what I have.

It is a s simple as that. My old mk1 had the batt. in the boot in a plastic container with lid and some threaded metal bars, cross piece and nuts holding it all in place. Another option is what James did with my car and build a fibre glass rear arm rest then cover it with the original fabric so it looks OEM.

If the tie rods are ok it is dead easy to remove the seized bolt. I used a small cutting disk attachment on a dremel but a saw would do the same job. 1 slit through the nut and then it undid easily.

Well all my tools and parts arrived quickly so did this today. In a word, easy. Hardest bit was getting the second boot back on, first one took me about 20 second, second one took a few minutes. Space is tight so small hands help. If you have spade hands find a small handed friend to help you out. Also make sure you have some big extension bars if you use a crow foot like myself. I missed mine being delivered as I was at work but wanted to crack on with it anyway. Ended up using the 1/2" crow foot with 1/2"-3/8" adapter, 3x3/8" extension bars to 3/8"-1/2" adapter and onto my torque wrench :lol: Was a bit wobbly but did the trick. Probably took me a max of 2 hours on a gravel drive, which included the time it took to cutting disk on a dremel through the old tie rod locking nuts so I could remove and re use the boots.

Cheers Rog, was Pro tyre on Marsh Barton. Don't get down Plymouth very often, furthest I get is some friends who live in Plympton.

Yep 226 for the rear. I am going to order some of these soon. http://www.mtecbrakes.com/mtec445.html

Too big, 35-45mm range. Our nut is 32mm. I bought one of these. Will post up how I got on once done. Could take a while as it is weather dependant being a driveway job. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291061669736?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

I stand corrected on the force side of things, but obviously my point about feel/firmness stands. I run Wilwood 6 pots with mk4 rears, braided lines, new rear pads and new front pads and disks and pedal travel isn't too bad but could be better. However if changing the MC for a bigger one will increase how hard I have to apply the pedal I think I will just deal with it.

By reducing the MC size you are reducing the amount of fluid moved by the pedal stroke which in turn increases the amount you have to push it to have the same braking effect. This is why you increase the MC size after fitting brakes with bigger pistons. If you decreased the size of MC you wouldn't be moving enough fluid to properly apply the brakes. EDIT. I think what you are talking about is the servo, not the MC.

Just come across a thread that says the 25.4mm one is too big. Pedal too firm with next to no travel. 23.8mm one sounds a better option.

4.

There is a thread on ED38 at the moment in which Rubjonny mentions you can use a T4 transporter 25.4mm MC as a direct replacement in our cars. Anyone done this or even aware of it? My brake pedal isn't the best thanks to the 6 pots so considering it as they can be had for only £39 from VW Heritage (5% discount if your an ED38 member) Part number is 7D0611019A

Had a middle aged fella in his T5 pull up along side me and mouth something along the lines of 'thats really nice' the other weekend whilst he was having a good look.

Your Granddad used to be an adjustable spanner Jim? Is there any special grease or will some multi purpose do the trick.

You are right Paddy, but Meyle Inner joints were £35 for a pair delivered, and not knowing how old they are I just decided to ordered them. Changed the ball joints today and did R32 rear wishbone bushes a few hundred miles back so thought I may as well just do these too to finish off the front end re furb.

Thinking a 32mm crowfoot will probably be the best option and not that much more expensive than a spanner.

Are the inner tie rods the same size for both sides? Need to replace both of mine as the locking nuts for the TRE's are completely seized. Looks simple enough to swap them from a thread I saw on Vortex, but is there anything I should be aware of? Sounded as though the special tool for the inner 32mm bolt would make things easier but not vital? What have others done, can you recommend a cheap tool needed for this, or should I just get a 32mm spanner? TIA

Just fitted new Meyle track rod ends and ball joints while the weather wasn't too bad. Only got rained on once. :cheers: Just sat in Protyre while they set the toe up. Edit, both lock nuts are completely seized, so new inner arms required.