VR6 Gar

Just been out for another drive and it looks like it will be getting broken :( Cable tied the flap on the Schrick open and it made no difference to how the car ran up top. It did make the low end worse though so there is a problem elsewhere. Don't want to be spending money trying to find out what. Unless someone were to take it off my hands for £2200 I just can't justify not breaking it.

Given the car a good clean and took a few photos. There are a fair few marks to the paint that I couldn't see last night through the dirt, however it is still in good nick for its age. Actually contemplating selling the VRT to free up some money and keeping this :shocked!:

Unfortunately its coil not dizzy so a control box is needed reading that.

Appears to be a control box issue, the light isn't coming on. Flap is moving freely and all the vacuum parts are there.

Yep, the car is in much better shape than I was expecting. There are a few issues on the paint here and there but overall it is a very tidy car. Even has an un used first aid kit. However it feels a bit flat top end so i think the schrick isn't activating as it should. Any guides on what to check? Feels great up to 4k though but starts to tail off when it should be picking up.

Yeah I actually saw it on ED38 first. Ideally wouldn't want to break it to save the ball ache but we will see.

Would remove the Schrick to sell as it wouldn't fit mine, replace with standard inlet and see if anyone wanted the car for £1500 ish, which considering the parts it has is still a right bargain. If not just break the whole car.

Bloody hell he got that at a right bargain. The guy selling it clearly had no idea what those Schrick parts were worth, or was in a monumental rush to sell.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151357787229?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648

Thinking it will be worth taking off the Schrick manifold and replacing with standard then selling on the car. It has long MOT so would be a shame to completely break it, especially as it has a load of other nice parts and a load of money spent on it. That is unless someone were to make me a good offer on it ;) Will see once I have it home.

Bought and picking up on Saturday Bill.

So really only worth it if there are some expensive bits on it then? Like schrick manifold/cams, Bilstein coilovers, magnex, BMC. ;)

Who on here has broken a Corrado and was there much money in it? With things like roof gutter trims, VR6 grill badges etc going for crazy money I would imagine there is a fair bit to be made. Who would like to put a figure on it without going to the extremes of selling every last switch etc.

From what I gather/have read elsewhere these are the seats the R32 ones were based on, ie similar design but not identical. Either way they are crazy supportive and very comfortable on long journeys despite being so firm. Anyone who buys them will not be disappointed.

Where was the problem, caliper fouling the spokes? Only ask as I can get 16" wheels over my 312/Wilwood setup with the use of spacers.

Just noticed that google maps has changed. Looks like The Sims now when 45degree is turned on. Found my Corrado on the drive in maps. And my old S4 on street view. Anyone else find their cars.

Ha, I actually really like the newer Subarus, especially this one. Probably what i will get next as the interiors don't look too bad on the more modern Jap stuff

There is a really nice blob eye STI with 431bhp advertised for £8.2k on ebay that I would be buying with that kind of money. Already getting the itch to move on again but will try and keep the C for another 12 months or so.

Saw a green storm in Exeter today. Probably the same one I saw in Paignton a while back.

That looks fantastic.

Spotted a full set of TT aero arms and blades on ebay a few days ago for £48 delivered so snapped them up. I already knew that the passenger side arm would be too long but had plans on how to get round this. I also didn't want to have to cut the blades to make them fit, due to them hitting in the middle, like you do when using 2 Drivers side arms, so here is what I did when they arrived today. First off was separating the head of the arm from the main shaft. This was not an easy task and i would not recommend it unless you have a work bench with vice. To do this I used angle grinder with a thin disc and cut a slit straight through the arm shaft where it goes into the head. I then, after lots of failed attempts to wiggle and bang it apart, cut through the arm at the point where it would need to be cut anyway when putting back together. The remaining bit of arm was then cut length ways into 2 halves. Each part could then be held in the vice on its own whilst a large screw driver and lump hammer were used to smash the head to remove the thin bit of remaining arm. Repeat for the second remaining piece. Hope that makes sense. The head was a bit scarred after all that hammering and cutting, but nothing a little filling didn't sort. Could do with giving it a lick of paint but it really doesn't look too bad. After getting the inside all tidied up with a needle file the head was ready to slot back on to the arm. This was easier than expected and only took a few taps to get it into position. I then wrapped it in a cloth for protection and clamped it back up using my metal vice after checking its length was correct and fitted the car properly. As you can see the passenger arm is slightly longer than the drivers arm, making it the perfect length and not a compromise. If buying new it would be far easier and less hassle to just buy 2 drivers side arms. However if a complete set comes up like they did for me then it is possible to make them fit even better than the 2 D/S method. The blades after a quick rub of vinegar are in great condition and do an amazing job of cleaning the screen. There is so much pressure on them that on a dry screen they wont get back to the reset position.

Spotted a full set of TT aero arms and blades on ebay a few days ago for £48 delivered so snapped them up. I already knew that the passenger side arm would be too long but had plans on how to get round this. I also didn't want to have to cut the blades to make them fit, due to them hitting in the middle, like you do when using 2 Drivers side arms, so here is what I did when they arrived today. First off was separating the head of the arm from the main shaft. This was not an easy task and i would not recommend it unless you have a work bench with vice. To do this I used angle grinder with a thin disc and cut a slit straight through the arm shaft where it goes into the head. I then, after lots of failed attempts to wiggle and bang it apart, cut through the arm at the point where it would need to be cut anyway when putting back together. The remaining bit of arm was then cut length ways into 2 halves. Each part could then be held in the vice on its own whilst a large screw driver and lump hammer were used to smash the head to remove the thin bit of remaining arm. Repeat for the second remaining piece. Hope that makes sense. The head was a bit scarred after all that hammering and cutting, but nothing a little filling didn't sort. Could do with giving it a lick of paint but it really doesn't look too bad. After getting the inside all tidied up with a needle file the head was ready to slot back on to the arm. This was easier than expected and only took a few taps to get it into position. I then wrapped it in a cloth for protection and clamped it back up using my metal vice after checking its length was correct and fitted the car properly. As you can see the passenger arm is slightly longer than the drivers arm, making it the perfect length and not a compromise. If buying new it would be far easier and less hassle to just buy 2 drivers side arms. However if a complete set comes up like they did for me then it is possible to make them fit even better than the 2 D/S method. The blades after a quick rub of vinegar are in great condition and do an amazing job of cleaning the screen. There is so much pressure on them that on a dry screen they wont get back to the reset position.

Yeah it's a great spot, I go a few times a year as well but just for weekends when my surfy mates go down. That Orange Corrado will probably be the TDI one thats for sale at the moment.

AEM dryflow. Oiled ones can cause maf issues.

You're all doing it wrong, it's a dead exhaust cat that proof was needed of, so here you go.