Stonejag

Or it could be the motor's starting to seize up. While you've got the passenger-side knee tray removed, grab it firmly by the base and give it a quarter turn - it should come out of the heater duct quite easily (careful, it's heavy!) and you can inspect whether the vaned top section spins freely. They can get wet due to leaves etc building up under the scuttle tray which may have caused it - if so some lithium grease may salvage it, but new ones are pretty cheap and readily available. Stone

Yes from me, and I run them on my C. Like the others said, they're not illegal if they meet all the relevant standards - don't get ones in the German font or with a D in the country strip and you're already beating 90% of pressed plate owners ;)

It is a bit of a nightmare getting all the right bits! Ping me your address over and I'll send you a pile of washers, I have tons left over as they come in bags of 50. It's well worth spending a tenner on a set of digital calipers btw, they come in handy for all sorts of things and make it much easier to confirm thread pitches...

I think it would look good as a hybrid of both - not totally smooth, but with the front and back straightened out (and the mounting spikes for the roof bars taken out) and some of the depth filled in so you'd still have a bit of a groove leading to the drains. Lots of work though! I still can't get my roof trim to sit properly so it's definitely on the table come the respray...

My rough translation: 'The Magnum is not going into production. Based on the VW Corrado, a Sport-Combi-model has been developed. After the decision not to go into series production, both of the first prototypes are now the only examples of this version. Especially for this variant, the name 'Magnum' was protected as a national and international trademark. Both the unique, beautiful, exclusive one-offs, with many special features, are now up for sale. With them will be sold all the rights, technical documents, wind-tunnel test models, construction documents, production tools, TÜV-report and, so far as available, production materials. Also sold will be the brand name "Magnum", protected for cars. --tech data (it's a slow G60!) -- Minimum bid for the combined package: 3.2m Deutschmarks [approx £1.3m at the last DM exchange rate before the Euro switchover] Please send written bids to the company Marold Automotive and Systems Engineering GmbH (address) Closing date for bids is 11th September 1991 Further information available on request by telephoning 054014900" Amusingly that phone number is still for the same address, but now MAG are known as Farmingtons Group and surprisingly enough they also have an office in Wolfsburg ;) Maybe VW outsourced the design work? Does this have anything to do with the Corrado pickup? That tailgate is incredibly ugly but it could grow on me... Stone

I assume mine's a fairly standard example of a poorly-treated car...in which case the worst spots will be in the tailgate lid under the spoiler (around the recess the numberplate lights sit in) and the rear wheel arches. You have to raise the spoiler to properly inspect the former - the latter can be hidden quite well with filler so watch out! I keep finding extra spots that need attention but it's all going back to primer sometime this year anyway so I'm not too worried :) Stone

Like it says, the first one is for original calipers - the second is for Mk4 calipers. VW improved the handbrake mech so it doesn't seize as often - but you could save £50 by keeping the ones you have already. The four bolts are for the front calipers - they need to be longer than the originals to account for the 6mm of spacers. Any stainless M12 washers should work, though some grades of stainless resist corrosion better than others. The bloke on eBay sent me some by accident which were 1.5mm so four of them made 6mm - do check yours though! Don't forget the toothed lock washer (or Loctite) as they'll eventually work loose otherwise. Tons of banjo bolts are included with the kit but C&R will send you extras if you get the wrong ones - just ask nicely! :) I have quite a few spares left over if you get stuck. Stone

Could be your thermostat's stuck open? My VR does exactly what you describe...

Fit a CDA instead, the noise at 3500rpm is awesome :D

Silica gel is expensive and saturates fast - you'll be forever replacing it (though you can stick it in the oven on low for a while to dry it back out again and reuse it...) My ex's uncle had a Ferrari that lived under a car cover during the winter - guaranteed condensation. Don't laugh too hard, but he started putting a tub of rice in the passenger footwell - problem solved! It's a hell of a lot cheaper than a bucket of silica, and you can chuck it out without that stabbing pain in the wallet. Pretty much all condensation is caused because warm air can have a lot more moisture dissolved into it than the same volume of cold air. That's why your breath fogs things up when you get in - warm (body temperature) air is cooled by the cold air in the car and all the moisture condenses out of it. If there's something large and cold nearby, like say the windscreen, then it cools the warm, moisture-laden air which dumps all the water onto the surface. Putting the heaters on full whack and filling the car until your missus complains (:lol:) will trap all the moisture in the warm air, and opening the sunroof lets it out so the water ends up outside. If you're finding the windows mist up quickly in the morning then it's far better to set off wherever you're going with the windows open and the heater turned up - making sure there's plenty of airflow stops you from accumulating tons of moisture into the car's atmosphere (from your breath) while it's cold, since it'll just accumulate on the windscreen. Then just whack the windows up when the heater kicks in and you'll be cosy in no time. Heated seats make this a lot more tolerable! Whatever you do don't just sit in the car with the heater on and engine running waiting for the windscreen to clear - it'll take ages because you keep topping the water level up. Opening the windows will clear it a lot faster, and it'll be freezing inside regardless so you've not lost anything :) Stone

Yep, my barrel is fine and they're pretty simple to pick if you can get at the back. Thank you for remembering! :) Did we agree a price in the end?

No, feels almost like the central locking cable is tangled in the mech somehow? Also the thinnest part (where the joint between the moving part and the lock mech) is snapped across the middle, it's only the rubber seal holding it together.

Looks great in orange! :thumbleft: Stone

Another one's gone on me :( I'd love one that's still in relatively good nick, if possible - just to tide me over for a year or so until I get it resprayed when I'm going to go for Audi handles. At the moment it works but doesn't spring back in and I have to bash it back into the closed position before the door will stay shut :( Doesn't need a stainless striker since I have a few spares now... Thanks in advance! Stone

Should be 1J0615125A: item 2. . Well worthwhile doing this, my brakes are great now :thumbleft: Stone

The current VW ones have an extra pump from the washer tank - I suspect running at higher pressure than the windscreen jets. I love the pop-up ones, very James Bond :lol:

One is front fogs and and the other is back fogs - the fronts will only come on if the headlights are on (dipped or full) and the rears will only come on if the fronts are already on (the switches only light up when they're active, so if you push the front fog switch, it won't light up until you put the headlights on and the fogs are activated). Pretty sure I have one either side - different before the facelift? If your rear fogs aren't lighting up (the two inner red patches, on the tailgate) I'd check the fuse/relay first, could be an easy one :) Disclaimer: the above is from memory! Stone

Well, it's all fitted... The garage really struggled to bleed the system afterwards and there must still be some air in it as the pedal feels very soggy. Compared to how it was on 280s I have to push the pedal at least halfway down before feeling any resistance. When they gave it back the first thing I did was reverse into another customer's Jag because it wouldn't stop :lol: Also my ABS light is on permanently now and won't cancel when I hold the pedal on starting - any ideas? Fingers crossed they didn't damage the seals by pressure-bleeding. That said, once it kicks in it's really impressive! The harder you press the harder they bite in, unlike the old system where it tailed off at the bottom of the pedal travel. Might need to tweak the pressure regulator for the rears a little since it feels like there's more to come on the fronts by the time they lock up and it gets squirrely, but it's easily knocked a third off my braking distances and emergency braking is much more reassuring. Definitely a worthwhile mod :thumbleft: Stone

Watching this with interest, can't be many Cs with this fitted! Probably would be a little easier to fit to mine as it's auto so already has the brake switch and speed wire plumbed to a convenient spot to fit to the gearbox ECU. How does the throttle linkage work, does it just pull/push on the Bowden cable? Stone

Not sure why the sensing would have to be on the axles - should be possible to do it from within the headlight unit as gyroscopic sensors have become so cheap these days. Then again I totally agree with this - you're almost always going to have the wrong optics fitted in these conversion (how many people bother transplanting the headlight innards? 'just a bulb swap innit') and it's only right that MOT testers start getting harsher on the beam patterns - every day I see cars where the dipped-beam pattern covers the whole width of the road at eye level and it's downright dangerous. On the bright side I can look forward to not being dazzled by them quite as often :) Stone

Yes, once in the form of 'Ooh, is that a Scirocco? I used to have one of those!' :lol: Had a good one this morning just after I got to work; I'd been in the building maybe twenty seconds when a guy from the top floor got in the lift with me and said 'Is that purple Corrado yours? Sound gorgeous with the VR6, don't they?' :D Stone

Well, when I got back to work I had a word with the machine shop bloke. He was so apologetic for having forgotten about these that he made me an extra set :lol: Would anybody like them at cost? Stone [i can set up a classified if I get in trouble but it hardly seems worth it...]

This might be pushing it in low-volume stuff, but I've always wondered why people go exclusively for 'boring' 2x2 carbon twill - there are literally hundreds of different composite fabrics available, all with different properties. The carbon/fibreglass/texalium blends come in tons of different colours for example, or you could use basalt fibre for a ~10% weight saving over CF for the same strength. I'd love some of these parts to be available in different colours, even if it's just a couple of different options - see Soller Composites for tons of examples if you can get past their very-90s web design :) I'm not suggesting you match every Corrado colour but having a couple of fabric types in stock and being flexible enough to make parts in a few others for specials would be really awesome, even if it cost a bit more. Or maybe I'm just a fashion victim? ;) [edit: actually SFT do this already but it's quite well hidden!] Stone

Another good reason for pressed plates - while I was getting my gf's Mk1 cabrio towed to the garage by the AA (needed new dizzy cap and rotor arm) the muppet reversed hard into the front plate/mount with the towbar - loud clang and some swearing, but after 10 seconds bending by hand it was perfectly legible again :D A plastic one would have shattered...

The garage are struggling to bleed mine (after fitting 312s/mk4 rears and stainless flexi hoses) - and they've had it three days now! Any tips I can give them to speed it up? (this is an auto VR6) Apparently they've got some pedal feel back but they're not happy giving it back until it's as it used to be...I'm guessing they totally drained the system without realising it would give them hassle later. Quite glad I got them to commit to a price first! They've done both rear wheel bearings - so could be set wrong as per previous posts here? Stone