PhatVR6

I posted up Ken Lark's corrado race car last week on the corrado forum, and all they've done is whine on about there's no way it cost that much to build, blah, blah, blah. f*cking pr1cks, I'm not going on there again, they are a bunch of c*nts. the 12v VR6 forum is good though.

no idea, it's just this horrible tacky looking black thing. no brand name on it at all.

Bosch - FR8LDC NGK - BKR5EKU How sad am I for knowing that off the top of my head! I hope I'm wrong, otherwise I'm officially a VR6 geek. :(

good enough for me then!

I had a VAG (well, ND MARSTON) one on my old VR, but I let it go with the car. just bought one from GSF, but it's cheap as sh1tre so I'm sending it back, not worth the money at all. Been quoted £115+VAT for a VALEO one, any good? I know they make them for a lot of manufacturers.

Pack A is just gas flowed, you can do that yourself. Try grant motorsport. you may have a hard time getting holds of him , but there's nothing he doesn't know about VR6 heads. I'm sure he can work wonders with a 16v too.

I only lost the head, the block was OK. Not that bothered, it was only and old 2.8, and I replaced it with the fit 2.9 I've still got, which is going on my corrado tomorrow! :)

did you get to see the hub whislt it was in bits? it maybe kanckered, causing the bearing not to seat correctly. the last time I had a bearing go (well, I snapped the end off the CV joint actually) it damaged the hub too.

1. remove cat heat sheild and bin it. 2. buy a new exhasut, but not off dubsport (they'll be expecting you to). 3. buy new oil cooler seals, they are only a few quid and easy to change. 4. buy a new serpentine belt and fit it yourself. fuel pump relay is triggered by the ECU, and goes through the factory immobilser. take the realy out (bottom right) and bridge the 2 slots where the big terminals go with a hefty bit of wire with 2 blades crimped on the end. that'll make the pump run full time. see if that gets rid of the problem. if it does, then get you multi meter out and check the connection to the smallest leg of the fuel pump relay. IIR the ECU earths it in order to tun the relay and pump on and off.

I didn't know any better at the time.... oh well, at least I learned how to strip a VR6 engine!

I'd have to say Stealth. I've bought loads of stuff off Vince, never had a problem. whereas I've always found Tim Stiles to be an obnoxious c*nt, and the only thing I've evenr bought off them was a B&M shifter, and it's the biggest pile of sh1t I've ever bought for my car.

how did you guess....I think the exact grade was more like WD40 though.... :lol:

yeah, could be a sticky lifter. sometimes an oil change will sort that. have you checked your oil pressure?

look in front of and just below the coilpack/dizzy, 3 sensors (or 2 if you don't have air con). somethimes has a cover over it. it's the blue one.

I've never heard of the lifter "wearing out", the noise is more likely to be your cam chains. listen closer and tell us which end of the engine it's coming from. is it a ticking, or a cyclic clattering? A mild port job and 268 cams should see up to 15BP, and no loss of midrange either. works mint with the schrick vgi, when it switches over at 4000rpm you can really feel the cams come in. I've yet to see if the porting and the waisted valves are goig to make much difference

I only wanted to spend £2000 on a corrado. ended up having to spend £3100 to get a tidy example, and even went for an 8v to keep tha costs of the base car down. £3000 should get him a G60, but expect a high miler in need of a charger and gearbox overhaul.

I bought a new (cheap) thermo stat for mine. I eneded up taking it out on the side of the A66 on my way up to scotland because the f*cker wouldn't open. if the secondary water pump fails you;ll get air locks in the head too. it's there to help circulate water through the head. I wire mine so it's running all the time the engine is.

dremel, LOL! it'd do one head and it'd be burnt out. you need a big air compressor and a die grinder, some tungsten carbide burrs, and lots of sanding drums. I can get schrick cams for £500. springs for £100. I'd have to get a price for new guides and getting them pressed in. Valve seals are £2.84 each. It took me a night to strip the head. the rest of the week of nights and a saturday after noon to flow it. then last night to put it all back together and lap the valves back in. it's now back on the car, with Raceware head studs and amk4 12v head gasket (thinner for higher compression). I'll get some pics up of the port work.

No chance! it took me all week! Hmm, new exhaust valves, gas flowed and port matched, new stem seals, 268 cams......mmmmm I fi get a spare head I might start doing them on an exchange basis. I might as well, plenty of companies out there charging the earth for them.

the housing is on a tilt. air rises to the top of course. so position it where you think that the air can get through that valve best.

I always use silver synta too. never had a problem with it, and I got 25 litres for £30 at inters. lastest me for years that did. I tried mobil 1 in my old 2.8/ it rattled it's t1ts off. Ionly left it in a week then I couldn't bear it anymore, it sounded painful, and was leaking out all over the place too. so I dumped the lot and used a decent 10w-40. about 2 weeks later the cam chain tensioner failed and the rear cam jumped 2 teeth out and bent 3 valves....mint. :mad:

See that nipple thing on the edge of the stat? that needs to be at the highest point. it's a valve to let air locks through. cheapo t stats don't have that valve, and are a pain in the ar5e.

£1200!!!!! I've just flowed and rebuild my head, it cost me about £150, including new exhaust valves...

don't use any grease or anything on the sensor. it needs to be bare metal and squeaky clean to work properly.

Both of mine were like that too.