PhatVR6
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Everything posted by PhatVR6
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no, it was vince who confused me by telling me it was a 3.3!
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Corrado VR6, CHN gearbox, correct? I always thought it had a 3.6 final drive, but I can't find it listed anywhere, and I've been told it's a 3.3:1, same as a CCM golf VR6 box, but that can't be right, I know they feel different. Anyone?
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What did the red one run on the 1/4 mile?
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take the silencer off then. the instructions in my schrick vgi said to do this, not noticed any ill effects or increased noise since. Theyve been known to explode you know, so it's possible it could be split.
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I don't even like mk4 headlights on a mk4, lord knows why so many people put them on other cars! have you seen the corrado with the bora lights!! that is even worse.
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take off the dash under trays and follow the wires. might be some poxy cheap immobiliser.
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variable interminant wipers mod.... costs about 5 euro
PhatVR6 replied to Hans G60.nl's topic in Engine Bay
so how do you alter the time delay? I suspected mine had it, because it doesn't always seem tohave the same delay. -
I would have done! I had £3500 in my pocket, and was scouring the trader looking for the right car. I was in work for 7:30, by 10am I was in a train to cardiff to go get my corrado. if I'd seen that campaign I'td have been mine! Shame it came up about a month later, but a good job a corrado fan bought it and not some anonymous car waster.
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cheers! the parts below were in a mk2 golf. managed a 13.75 1/4 mile, with a 2.034 60' time (that equates to around a 5.5 0-60). managed to get 132.35mph out of it, but that wasn't flat out (officially recorded by south yorkshire police!) should be a bit slower in a heavy corrado, but race seats, carbn bonnet and the direct port nitrous should sort that out. if it won't run 12's I'm selling it an buying a skyline, f*ck it.
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VR6 belt tensioner bearing replacement - how to.
PhatVR6 replied to PhatVR6's topic in Suppliers Forum
actual work needed "hold with molegrips and beat repeatedly with a hammer" thanks., i'll see what its like before ordering a spare if you do that you'll smash the plastic pulley to peices....and you can't buy the pulley on it's own, you have to buy the whole unit.....expensive. -
VR6 belt tensioner bearing replacement - how to.
PhatVR6 replied to PhatVR6's topic in Suppliers Forum
no, the "bearing" is the whole metal assembly in the middle. what you call "ball bearings" are in fact called "spherical rolling elements, these are the load bearing, moving parts in the bearing. the part number I have specified is for a deep groove ball roller bearing. effectively that's what's i there now. like other have said, grease is no good, it's noaisy becasue it's worn out. it's too late to grease it. -
My 2.0 8v did that last week, the belt tensioner bearing had seized!
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of you can use your little square harazard warning switch in the mk3 style stalks if you want.
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Yep, Volksbits, I noticed that myself, I was tempted to buy the semi-tinted ones!
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But surely all those things are your fault, and nothing to do with luck? apart from the temp gauge of course...
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VR6 belt tensioner bearing replacement - how to.
PhatVR6 replied to PhatVR6's topic in Suppliers Forum
DEAL -
aye, they certainly do.
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VR6 belt tensioner bearing replacement - how to.
PhatVR6 replied to PhatVR6's topic in Suppliers Forum
bump. sticky please? is this in the right section? -
Check out the link at the top for all the info you should need. works out at about £80 cheaper for say a corrado VR6 set.
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good idea to empty the oil cooler when you do an oil change then really.. So doesn't this kit have a thermostat in it then?
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Noisy tensioner? don't pay £140 for anew VAG one. The bearing is £5 from any SKF bearing supllier (BSL for instance), code number 6203-2RS1. Screw an M8 bolt into the threaded hole in the tensioner to back off the tension. Don't go too far, you'll damage it if you do. Slip the belt off. Remove the 3x 13mm tensioner to head bolts and remove the tensioner. The bolt holding the pulley to the tensioner is a left hand thread, hold the tensioner in the vice and crack the thread open by turning the bolt clockwise. Remove pulley and bearing. Cut/scrape away the smaller of the retaining lips on your old pulley with a stanley knife then press the old bearing out using a vice and a suitable sized socket. Give it a good clean up and scrape away the lip even more until it's totally smooth so the new bearing can slide staight in without having to stretch the pulley. Then be VERY careful when pressing the new one in or you'll crack the pulley. Make sure it goes in square. Refit it to the tensioner, tighten the bolt and refit it all. No more screaming tensioner bearing. As soon as I can get a spare tensioner I'll be doing these on an exchange basis.
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why didn't you get the dash too? and more importantly, where's the rest of the campaign!!
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Bump for anyone else wanting to lose the nasty chrome look.
