elliott

I'd try fixing the gear selector first before swapping gearboxes, sounds like you've got too much play at the gearbox end.

It can be done, search is your friend... :smug: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?58538-The-MK3-Diesel-Gearbox-Thread&highlight=diesel+gearbox

Well, had a fantastic weekend driving the car up north for a well deserved break. Car run great all the way up and back, best drive I've had in years. Only thing that broke was the boot lock and the passengers door c/locking has developed a leak. This is where we ended up, Fantastic roads!!

The golf mk3 subframe is a closer match, you just need to shorten the legs. I'm sure I've come acrosss a build thread (on here) of it being done but you'd need to search.

X-Men 1st class worth a watch if you've seen the rest but it's yet another prequel. Script writers seem to be running out of ideas these days. Attack the block 5/10, supposed to be a comedy/horror?

Like most things in life, you get what you pay for. If your wishbones are relatively rust free I'd get the VAG bushes and maybe do the TT/R32 upgrade while your there. It'll cost more than £56 but it would give you the fit and forget peace of mind.

When cold? Only thing it's for is cold starting and telling you the water temp obviously :lol: This is when ticking over. Faulty oxygen, air mass and knock sensors.

I'd guess this is your problem, it was on mine anyhow. Does your car take an age to start after its been warmed up? I ask as once the oxygen sensor fails the rest of the system can't cope and so the ecu just defaults to cold start mode hence the crazy over fueling.

Yeah as above? It's just the same system but with some oxygen and knock sensors to keep the fueling right for the CAT, removing it all would cause problems come MOT time. What problems are you having?

Sad times, hate those visits to the vet. RIP

:lol:

Under the right hand side of the dash you should see a shelf that unclips and folds down. Yours must be rare and not rattle as i'm constantly moving it about, trying to get it to sit tight :lol:

Having some spares is dam handy, good luck with it. Not had mine long so soaking up as much info here as i can.

Is there not something about setting the timing at higher revs and not at idle with these cars? I'm learning here so could be talking mince, i just remember a guy at work having trouble getting his goof set up.

Ah good stuff, all working then. Data bits/latency are the same thing I thought? Using windows 7 here and I can't remember how xp works but should be the same (ish). Are you scanning the 16v or VR here? Looks like you might have a dodgy abs relay, there are 2 of them and can be found right behind the glove box. Open the glove box, remove all the screws around the edge and pull the light fitting out. The whole box should pull out with a bit of a jiggle and a faf. Once out you'll see 2 relays and 2 fuses. I checked mine by removing one at a time and testing it out the car with a couple of wires attached to a 12v supply. As for the outlet valve I also had this and was told it needed a new pump! Try removing the plug on the abs pump and giving it a clean, this seems to have fixed mine (for good hopefully?) Don't know what the diff lock valve problem means? Maybe something to do with the traction control but hopefully someone here could help?

Take care not to earth the live jump lead onto the starter body, would make for some early fire works!

^^^^ :lol: Beat me to it Hello there, don't suppose you have any other keys to try in the boot? To be honest I've never had any vw's that had working key locks on the boot, they always rust up internally and jam up. Sounds like you have passat handles but i could be wrong, a way to get power to the car would be to remove the grill and gain access to the bonnet release wires. You would have to take care not to break the clips on the grill but it would be cheaper and easier to replace than the window.

Goto here and download the 1.1 lite version. Your using 1.0 and if i remember right that'll be the one you get on the mini cd with the cable. As for the excessive comms error you need to goto [control panel/device manager/ports/ 'USB serial port' port settings and change the data bits to 5] Could someone PLEASE make this a wiki/sticky! Many times I've seen this being asked and I was once one of them. I could sit and make a step by step picture guide if it helps? If anyone is looking for a scan in the Glasgow (north lanarkshire) area I don't mind helping. I've got the OBDII blue cable and the 2+2 adaptor. Pdf file for the definitions of the codes, very handy...

F'ing dirty scumbags... Always liked this system when it came out

Forgive me if this is a daft question but was the tracking done after the re-build? Had this on mine but only when the road was damp/wet, left wheel was tracking left and the right was tracking right. Made for a horrible bum twitching drive under acceleration.

Front sensor is £45 ish, take care removing the M6 cap screw. I snapped mine and ended up having to drill the old one out, not fun.

Thought I'd better update this, ABS light was off until I came to turn full lock. Turns out the sensor wire had a brake in it and was well worn with years of turning. Found a mk3 golf one has the same connections, just had to cut the brake pad wear connections off and it fitted straight in. Took it for an MOT after many hours work only to have it fail on a cv boot. I'm suspicious when you just fail for a nicked rubber boot, I'll be looking for any signs of deliberate damage.

Cant hurt to have a look, it'll save you time and money too. Disconnecting and reconnecting doesn't involve any procedures, just lift the metal clamp thing on the plug and the plug will lift out with it at an angle. Don't do what i did and pull the plastic cover off the top of the plug :lol: Were all noobs at some point but you'll learn nothing if your not curious.

I understand your thinking as I also bought my car safe in the knowledge that if the worst was to happen at least I'd get my money back in bits, however after owning and driving it for 4 months now I don't think I could bring myself to brake it. By the sounds of it your car does have some rust issues as does any 20 year old car, mine is rotten on both quarter panels, both sills at the front, both front arches, the rear panel has completely gone around the badge area and one of the roof chanels is starting to show some rust. I've seen 2 cars in the scrap yards so far and both looked far better than mine but I'm still going to keep my car on the road. Sure welding and painting is expensive, so much so I've ended up buying a second hand compressor and a second hand welder. "No Significant Problems" so far? Mine is just a valver as well, you have something much more desirable there...

Hello, just been through what your describing here. The ABS system has more than a couple of common faults, might be best to check the plug that connects to the abs unit. Mine had some green corrosion around the contacts between the unit and the plug. Just give it a gentle clean with a small brush. Also check the wire that goes from the top of the strut down to the wheel sensor on both sides of the front. My car has high millage and one of them had split inside the insulation. Pull the top and bottom connections off and check with a multimeter if you have one. I did both of these and finally the light stayed out. If you have a laptop, a tool worth investing in is the VAG-COM cable. Its cheaper than replacing wheel sensors and saved me some guess work. It can't tell if the wire is faulty however :lol: