stormseeker

I think they have basically a big shed that they call the "oven" - big enough to drive a whole car in! It's "baked" at a lowish temp - prob. 40 ish degrees C. (as opposed to a couple of hundred in yer kitchen oven :D :D :D )

The car's actually covered in sand, but you can't really see this in the sunlight. Somewhere in Liverpool City Centre...

Bet they don't remove it - just mask the whole car round it....

:) No worries... Just makes me want to get mine sorted even more.... :mrgreen:

YEAH, but - Roddy's got his stock 15" Solitudes & I've got my stock 15" Speedlines, must be the same size to within a micron or two !!! :roll: Unless you're telling me that all 15" wheels have different diameters... So -65mm should be pretty accurate.....

to be honest....i don't know.....didn't measure it before.....d'oh.....anyway from the bottom of the wheelarches to the top of the wheel-lip(not the tyre) its 100mm all round Just been out to measure mine :: 165mm all round from bottom of the wheelarch to the top of the wheel-lip :: -65mm!!! that's a serious drop!!!

Is there any maintenance you can do to prevent the all-too-common sunroof failure? (like greasing & lubricating some of the mechanism?) Mine's making a horrible creaking noise when it tilts - could it be on its way out? As I understand it, it's usually the cables that snap???

Shouldn't be too difficult to knock up a small circuit that connects to the MFA push button switch wiring and an ignition feed and just simulates pushing the switch 5 times shortly after the ignition is switched on. Watch this space.... :)

So how much has the ride height dropped on the Konis, Roddy?

perfect storm Roddy. fancy swapping it for an aqua blue VR6 :wink:

De-badged colour coded grille & light eye-brow - mmmmmmmm 8) 8) 8) Definitely the way to go.

"Pay attention at the back children!!!"

Wow - comiserations and congratulations on living to tell the tale...

"Oh well, don't worry viewers, it's just angular momentum..."

Oh yeah - and you've got to take into account the relative air density and the cooefficeint of friction of the particular road surface you're on.... :wink:

I'd love to know too - ChrisVR6nos, was this before or after supercharger????? :?: :?: :?: :?: :?:

My blurb above was assuming bigger wheels/lower profile tyres so the same rolling radius. If you go to smaller wheels and a smaller rolling radius then yes, you will accelerate quicker, (it's just altering the overall gearing of the car), but at the expense of top speed. Opposite is true for bigger wheels/bigger rolling radius - slower acceleration.

My original was on cassette - hasn't lasted well!!! But it did have two remixes (or "Dun Diffrunt" as they called it, in that crazy style :wink: ) which the CD dosen't have :(

No, but just saw an ad for Volksbits in a mag yesterday which jogged my memory - ordering them today...

'bout the same ride height as a VR in that 2nd picture..... :lol: :lol: :lol:

Well, I feel like now I must confess to just buying "Doot-Doot" by Freur on CD. It was originally released in 1983 and although they were a bunch of arty-farty-long-haired-new-romantic types, two of them eventually formed Underworld so they can't have been that bad.... Anyway, Doot-Doot the album is an absolute work of Genius! Still sounds good today!

This is a common question and the answer is: Probably! It all depends on the new wheels' weight distribution. Going to bigger wheels is putting more metal further away from the centre of rotation = more energy required to spin it at a given speed = less energy available for propelling the car. The energy required is proportional to the square of the radius for a given mass which is why increasing the radius from 7.5" to 8.5" (i.e. 15" to 17" wheel diameter) you sometimes get a noticable effect. (8.5/7.5)squared = 1.28 i.e 28% increase in energy required just to spin the wheel and this is per corner so times 4 for the whole car! And this is assuming the same style of wheel AND completely ignoring tyres! If you could get bigger wheels that actually required less energy to spin them you would see a performance increase! i.e. some ultra-ultra-lite alloy.

Shamelessly plagiarised from the CCA web site..... (basically just says use some contact cleaner! And not sure if the US interior is early/late???) FAQ/Tech Tip Detail: Repairing Power Mirrors Updated: 28-Dec-99 Author: Edwin Torres Answer: Problem: On my late 93 VR6, both power sidemirrors will not function. I get a clicking sound when I depress the power buttons. I checked the fuse and it's OK. Anyone have an idea at what gives? Well thanks to Brendan, a.k.a. G60 racer, I solved this one simply and beautifully. If followed properly it should work. Procedure is as follows: 1. On drivers side door, remove leather or faux-pas leather strip on door handle with small screwdriver by prying gently from both sides. 2. Remove 2 screws holding door handle in place and remove entire handle assembly. 3. Disengage wire connector plug on rear. 4. Turn entire assembly around and gently pry off the small circuit board behind the mirror positioning buttons. 5. You will then find the culprit. My boards copper contacts had become oxidized! Proceed to clean these carefully with a good contact cleaner. Follow chosen products instructions exactly! 6. Proceed to reassemble all using reverse procedures and voila! It worked! Oh yea, you try this at your own risk and I cannot be held responsible for damages incurred on your own vehicle. (legal nomenclature :( )

The contacts in the mirror adjustment switch can oxidise quite badly. My drivers side one is fine, but passenger side one needs a got hard push & a wiggle to get it to move. You can clean the up apparently if you take the door cards off.... Central locking fault could be a tired pump.

Well, I'd been putting this off, thinking I'd get some decent photos after I'd got some new 17" wheels & coilovers, but the financial situation means this might be some time away :( So here it is, in all it's "max. ride height" glory.... Spec: Standard apart from Frosty-Filmed rear lights, Alloy gear knob (makes all the difference), and clear side repeaters... Oh yeah, and a smattering of LED bulbs (front sidelights, side repeaters, rear stop/tail, rear fog & reversing + all interior lights)