Gti_Jamo

Managed to get the secondary shaft bearings out today with the heat gun so all is good in that regard.

Cheers mate. My springs are all good, just need tensioned back up a bit. I reckon the main shaft bearings should come out with a good heat with a heat gun and if they do come out ok, then the small shaft bearings should come out like that too. Probably! Too be honest they old ones look and feel as good as the new ones. I have two chargers and both have the same coloured strips all the way through and none of them are green so will need to look into that further.

Yeah read all that and most of the internet. Guess i'm looking for info directly from someone who has rebuilt them. I have an idea but would just like clarification. Cheers.

Also, to clarify, the displacer doesn't have the metal springs - just the casings that contain tension springs? Does both the displacer and the casings use the same type of apex seals? As my kit came with two types, one type is specifically labelled for 'diffuser'. These are green in colour but the others are grey. Looks like I have plenty of the grey ones to do all the seals on both casing and the displacer but the green ones looks like I only have enough for the displacer. I assume 'diffuser' is just another term for this. Any help will be greatly appreciated. I plan to do a comprehensive guide for rebuilding.

Does any of you g-lader techs have a proper method on how to remove these. Can't appear to find much info online. My ones look in good shape still but I have new ones there so be a shame not to fit them. Cheers!

You able to post a pic of your bypass? I too have spare silencer box but will need to check its condition first.

Yeah it was sitting hard up against the exhaust and one side has pulled the rubber out the drop link. Drop links are there, it's just the bar is the wrong way round so it doesn't fit right at all. I'll prob drop the back of the subframe and flip it over at some point. One of the front wheel bearings is knackered too. I had it running spot on. Not sure what I did to be honest. The timing belt tensioner was on its last legs so I changed it for a spare I had but unfortunately the belt slipped on the auxiliary shaft which threw the timing right out. Timed it up again and it was fine. I think the fuel was really old in it too as was much better after I fired a gallon in her. The alternator is completely had it so doesn't charge. Charger also has a fair bit of oil coming through it. Managed to get those charger bolts out lol. I think the crank seal on the gearbox side is leaking. There will no doubt other bit's i'll be taking off it for mine but not too much. It's a fair major project for someone anyway.

That's about 2 months you've managed to last without a Corrado in your life lol.

Yeah these where always going to find their way onto mine lol. I've got some other coilovers for it though so not all bad. Still not be breaking it but will likely be selling it on soon. Did you know you fitted the anti roll bar on upside down lol?

Both look great. The G60 looks clean, I like the blue. Looks like a bird took a dislike to your Storm?

There is no environmental issue where the internal combustion engine is concerned. The real problem is consumerism and corporate greed - which only projects the illusion that they care about the environment. We are terribly wasteful, like ridiculously wasteful, and running a 25 year old classic should be commended instead of punished. Modern vehicles, whether they be petrol or electrical, all have inherent failures built in and will barely make it past 10 years before the are considered uneconomical to repair. It's quite clear the manufacturers don't want us maintaining them ourselves as they make them so complex and require special tools to do the most simplest of tasks. My future aim is to solely deal and work with classics.

Update. Would have been sooner but had issues posting images. With photobucket out the window I had been using tinypic for this thread but even that doesn't function correctly anymore. I'm using postimage for this post. More progress on the engine. Fitted a new oil cooler and a few nuts and bolts etc but most of it is just refurbished. Need to get a new knock sensor as mine is in a terrible state. My front engine mount broke a few years ago and welded up but it was never quite right and sat a bit squint so cut it apart and re-welded it properly before painting. Both coolant flanges on the cylinder head were pitted so used some JB Weld on them and sanded them flush - nothing worse than having coolant leak from these. As my radiator support panel was well past its best I managed to source another in good condition and refurbish it. Had to weld it round the captive nuts where the panel secures to the crossmember but other than that it's mint. So with all that done the engine could go back in. Went in no bother with the 4 branch manifold in place but was touching the power steering return pipe so have fettled it a bit to get some clearance there but other than that it fits in well. And finally cleaned up two of the KW coilovers off the black one. Came up not bad! All the best, Jamie

The chugging motion will likely be a more efficient.

I'd be lost without something to work on. The classic car world is still very much alive and kicking at the moment and can't see it changing anytime soon fortunately.

The internal combustion engine will never die. All this is just greed and fear mongering but in the end nothing really changes. As for running a classic, it's bought and paid for and it gives me something to tinker with in the garage. Cost me peanuts in tax and insurance. I'll only ever run classics. I don't really think much of modern cars as they just aren't made the same. Had a car on finance 10 years ago and was one of lifes bad choices.

It's 17 degrees here now. Still belting it down!

If they are not perished or broken then I wouldn't bother to be honest.

It's like 15 degrees where I am and it's belting it down with rain as I type. Your just lucky, lap it up!

I'm with Flux Direct and mine has gone down in price past 2 years.

Make sure you mark the timing belt on the camshaft pulley before you remove that or you will need to re-time the engine. You will need to slacken the belt tensioner bolt to get the belt off. Make sure the belt doesn't slip an the auxiliary shaft as it's easily done. Check how the hydraulic tappets are sitting and see if any are lower down as this would indicate a stuck open valve. You'll not be able to remove the valve springs and you can't get to the valve stem seals with the head fitted without special tools and equipment. You don't want to touch the valve springs anyway as their position is critical for proper valve seating - you move them then they won't shut the valves properly. If a valve is stuck. Some gentle taps with a small hammer should get it moving again. Not much more you can do with it. In all fairness though, your best course of action is to strip the head off and get it all done properly.

My Pargas Blue 1.1 Mk1 Gti Look-a-like sold back in 2002 (YLN233X), My black 205 1.9 Gti I sold back in 2005 (G589THS) and the Atlas Grey Mk2 Golf Gti project I sold for £500 2 years ago (F31HTM). I have two Corrado G60's though now which somewhat softens the blow of past mistakes. I sold my oldmans Jensen Interceptor back in 2011 for £7500, that was a bit of a bummer considering how much they have gone up in value since. Also the Marcos Mantula I watched him build as a child went to Germany back in 2008 for a mere £4000.

Make sure when viewing one with a 1.8t that it's been fitted by a professional and certified. Last thing you want is to be sorting out someone else's mess if it goes wrong. Especially more so with the cheaper AUM options instead of the more sought after BAM or AMK as you can pick AUM conversions up for next to nothing these days.

Hi, Did you erase the code the first time around? One switch is the closed throttle and the other is for wide open throttle. If the switch wasn't clicking before but is now and all is well then I'd say that's problem solved.

The G60 engine is non-interference so even with a valve stuck fully open the piston top won't touch it. Pull the cam cover off and check the movement in the hydraulic tappets at number 4 while turning over. There are methods to get moving again without a drastic tear down if this is the case. The G60 lump is a simple engine and very easy to work on.

You don't want to be turning the engine over from the charger. The crank pulley is a multi-spline bolt so you need a proper socket. How did you perform the compression test and what were the actual results per each cylinder? Chances are it's a valve that is stuck open if you're reading 0 compression. At the end if the day if it has sat for 16 years the engine is going to need stripped and rebuilt, as will the charger.