corradophil

Could be an oil leak too. An otherwise good clutch will judder with oil on it. Price for a new clutch would be £100 ish. Don't know what you would be charged for labour, because I've always done my own.

Was it a straight forward conversion? Any tips? I imagine it must be reasonably quick, another mate had a 1.6 TDI and that accelerated pretty well.

Whats wrong Mistrall jealous :lol: Agreed, you do need to rev em to get the power from them.

A mate has a 1989 Transporter with a flat 4 petrol engine. He uses it for camping, going to shows and stuff, but also as a works van to carry building materials. The petrol engine seems to be on its last legs and he wants to replace it. I've tried to persuade him to go for a flat 6 Porsche conversion but he's having none of it :roll: A 1.9 TDI seems the best idea, for more grunt and economy for reliable daily use. Can anyone offer any advise, he has up to £1000 to spend.

If its got a good finish you can't be far our with your spraying. I would have gone for 2 pack paint though. What do you think you'll end up doing? If you like the darker colour, you could always paint the bumper in the same primer, as the rest of the car, and then spray it red to try to match the colour better.

I agree with David's comments. For road use I would stick with KR spec cams. Mine is a 2.0 16v, with head work done by myself!! Look at my signature for spec and power.

Looks good, any more pics of your cylinder head. What cams are you running?

The colour won't change from what it is now, flatting and polishing will only give you a better finish. Well done for having a go yourself, looks good. If you want it the same colour as the bumper, I think you need to be painting it again. In my opinion the there is not enough paint on there, so the red is still a little transparent, showing the colour of the primer underneath.

Later ones are indeed OBD2, vag-com for Mk4 Golfs etc works on a P reg Golf VR6.

I'll definately buy this issue, IMHO yours is one the best Corrados around - highly modified, but looks like it could've been like that straight from the factory.

BIt late, but I'd go with Alpine too. I had a 2nd hand Kenwood which I liked, but it was old and worn out. I then got an Alpine which sounded beautiful, but sold it for a more modern and flash Sony. I kept the Sony for about 1 month, then sold it and bought another Alpine. That was 8 years ago, I still have that Alpine and 6 disc changer in my Corrado today, all working well and sounding very good.

All fixed!! The newest of the 2 rear bearings was well and truley shot. I think it may have been because of the grease I used originally. Anyway 1 hours work, a new tub of the correct grease and a new wheel bearing later the car is nice and quiet again.

First thing I would do is remove the rectangular surround for all 3 knobs. Give the contacts on the speed control a good clean up. Mine only worked on number 4, and this solved it.

Yep they are quite a rare sight now. There is a really clean one in the car park where I work. What about an oldish dull Japanese car, Nissan Micra, Sunny, Primera?? Jap cars are supposed to be ultra reliable, and they are not that desirable, so prices should be good.

Compared to what a lot of people spend/loose in depreciation, my old banger (see signature) provides me with fun cheap motoring.

I'd have the Porsche too, although when I get a Porsche it has to be some sort of 911.

As requested in Guards Red

Just voted for Corrado, MK1 Golf and Porsche 911.

Where did the duff wheel bearing come from? Both rear wheel bearings are pretty new. They were from GSF. I am going to inspect the tyres more closely at the weekend. I'm pretty definate its the tyres because swapping them front to back moves the vibration and noise to the front.

That seems to be the only variable on the rear suspension geometry, I changed them in July, these tyres were on for a year before that, so if it is this I'll find out in due course. Both wheels spin freely and smoothly. It seems so far, only my car does this. What about wheel balancing? The wheels don't suffer from vibration through being un-balanced, but are balanced on the inside of the wheels only. Obviously I don't want weights stuck to the outside of the wheels. But I remember reading about various different types of balancing a long time ago IIRC a wheel can be correctly staticly balanced, but not correctly dynamically balanced. Anyone know anything about this?

Yep, they're on the right way. The only thing I can think of is it is something to do with the geometry of the suspension, but when I had the Toyos fitted I had a full 4 wheel alignment done and according to the print out it is all within tolerance. It only happens to the rears. The fronts are well worn, but have no noise or vibration at all.

My rear tyres have worn in such away that they are whirring, kind of like BMX tyres or off road tyres on a Land Rover. It sounds very similar to the noise you get from a damaged wheel bearing. All the wheel bearings are good on the car, and tyres have done about 7000 miles from new on the back, so they have loads of tread left. If I swap them from the rear to the front the sound/vibration moves to the front. My current tyres are Toyo Proxes TS1s 205/40 R17, but it also happened on my 16" wheels with Good Year F1 205/45 R16. The shock absorbers are in good condition, which can apparently cause "feathering". Does anyone else have this problem, and any ideas what causes it?

If your likely to use within the next 6 months I'd keep it, otherwise sell it.

I'd put a strobe light on and check your ignition timing first. Assuming that is correct and it still pinks, check the condition and connections of the knock sensors. There are two on a 9A, both bolted to the front of the block. Do a search and you should find plenty of info including photos of them. The 2.0 16v should not pink if set up correctly.

I've heard them describes as a manifold too.