corradophil

I used calipers and carriers from a mk3 Golf GTI, and G60 discs and pads.

3 1/2 years.

Hmmm possibly. It is very important that the bolt matches the wheel. If you compare the heads of the bolts where they seat on the wheel the standard VW bolts the have a radiused section, whereas aftermarket ones have a straight tapered section. Years ago a mate had unmatched bolts/wheels, eventually one of his wheels wobbled loose, which caused massive vibration ending in the wheel coming off as he was driving.

Mine started with a chrome VW badge and red 16v valve badge. I removed the 16v badge. I then painted the VW badge black. I then saw Jim's G60 and thought it looked good with the G60 badge, so I now have a black VW and red 16v badge and I like that best at the moment...

A couple of mine with a little computer trickery to make it a bit lower.

How did you guess :roll:

:lol: Make that 2 for spigot rings and 3 against. The spiggot rings on mine are only plastic, which centralise the wheel on the hub when you fit it. The holes in aftermarket wheels and their bolts have matching tapers, so as soon as you tighten the bolts up they will locate the wheel. If the spiggot rings were designed as a load bearing lacator, they wouldn't be plastic mouldings.

Sounds about right to me. A bit more torque than mine, but a little less bhp. I bet it drives nicely. By the way you only need to change the inlet cam to KR spec. The exhaust cam on on your 9A will already be KR spec from factory.

I know what you mean, plus if you don't say anything, you look like you don't have a clue either, but it didn't seem worth getting into a big discussion over it. As soon as he said that, the conversation ended.

Cool, looking forward to seeing this.

I was speaking to a bloke a few months ago who reckons he had a 700bhp Triumph Dolomite, I asked, "Was it a dragster?". He replied, "No it was just a race Dolomite 4 cyl engine". After that I kind of switched off.

Can't remember the part number off the top of my head :wink: , but I can find out over the weekend. Oh yeah, it is an inspection cover which you remove from the bell housing to do the timing.

Theres a black plastic cover which clips into both holes.

Yeah Kev you are right it was Ian Burch. I think a con-rod broke punching a hole through the block, and as you said there was hot oil everywhere. I've got a magazine with it in somewhere.

I reckon they were listening to the mooosic you were playing.

Well I know they are expensive, but didn't expect quite that much. Is it missfiring then? Mine is still on it's original VW HT leads, and they are fine. If the reving is the only problem I wouldn't replace them.

Yep, I've had better results using this method. Not sure who stocks them new, but definately try gsf and euro first or if you know anyone with the same engine which runs fine, put your isv on their car and see if the problem occurs on theirs.

If cleaning the ISV helped slightly, I'd give it another go, trouble is cleaning it may not necessarily sort it out if its faulty. It does sound like the ISV to me.

There two cams, inlet and exhaust which control when the valves open, the exhaust is the same on the KR and 9A, but the 9A has a "milder" cam with less lift and duration, so the valves open less and for less time thus less fuel/air mixture gets in. Swap the 9A inlet cam for a KR inlet cam you get more air/fuel and a little extra power at higher revs. The 50mm inlet manifold is larger diameter than std on a 9A, therefore you can flow more air thorugh it, but in practice it has been shown that the original is better. So fit a KR inlet camshaft if you want more power at high revs, plus ability to rev it a little harder, but keep the original inlet manifold. Think of your engine as a pump, the more air you pump through it the more power it makes, thats a very simple way of explaining the effects you try to achieve from all these mods.

Just been looking at volume 1 & 2 which appear to come together as one DVD. It says approx 1 hour running time, is that correct, i.e. 30mins for 1 and 30mins for 2?

Yep, theres a black one local to me, its a grey import. Many years ago when I was in the motor trade we modified a Scorpion stainless exhaust for the hard top model to fit it.

In simple terms I think that covers it. Cannot think of anything else. I've always like K-Jet, since my Mk1 GTi. Out of all the cars I've owned it had the smoothest most progressive and jerk free throttle repsonse, which was particularly nice in traffic jams.

Ke-motronic as fitted to the 9A 2.016v is basically K-jetronic with knock sensors to retard the timing at the onset of pinking and closed loop lambda control which electronicaly adjusts the fuel mixture based on the lambda sensors readings. To acheive this the ECU is programmed to control both fueling and ignition, this is how it is possible to re-map a 9A to increase power, but not a KR which has purely mechanical fuelling. Ke-motronic was developed due to tighter exhaust emmision requirements, and the 9A has a catalytic converter to further clean up the exhaust.

Have a look at my sig below for power and rough spec, mine is a 9A the same as yours. Also look here http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... power+mods

Revo plug a laptop into the OBD serial plug located in the dash on MK4s and set it up in about 5 mins. Thats definately the case on fly by wire 1.8t engines. So it is an off the shelf code, not custom, I would assume it would be the same on a TDI. As for the expense, Revo and their competitors appear to charge roughly the same amount so, I suppose whilst people pay this, which plenty do, why lower it. It certainly makes an already quickish 180bhp Leon Cupra a fair bit faster, if I was keeping my Leon I'd definately get it Revo'd. Have a look on http://www.seatcupra.net there is plenty of discussion on chipping on there.