corradophil

Looks a bit bland to me, much prefer the Mk4.

Very, it doesn't take long to get going, there was a video of a Mk4 Golf catching fire and going up in smoke a while ago.

Fit the KR inlet cam and see how you go. Don't expect miracles though. Mine just fealt a little more lively at high revs.

I'm not sure, it was about 9 years ago, all I know is they were just bog standard ones - not fast road or anything flash. The worst by far were kevlar fast road things - absolutely frightening, I had a few times where I was forced to change down through the gears to stop the thing. I've never been caught out like that with the pagid FRs, unfortunately I have another set on the shelf too, so I have a lot miles to do before I need to buy any, but if I do it'll be no frills ferodo baggins for me :lol:

Interesting, I've had a similar experience going from 256mm to 280mm with Pagid fast road pads, it has a good firm pedal but there really is no improvement in braking performance. A friend has a completely standard 8v Mk2 Golf GTI running 239 discs and it has much better bite than mine. I am suspisious of the pads personally. On my Mk1 Golf I used to get through pads very quickly and was able to try several different makes, my favourite by far were standard Ferrodo ones off the shelf from Halfords, they had the best bite and fade resistance of all that I tried.

Keep going, you'll get it sorted soon.

Yep. agree with David's comments. See my signature for my spec and power figures from a 2.0 16v.

As long as the numbers are the same it's the same part, the g on the end is a design revision. i.e. 054905377 was the original 054905377a would be the 1st revised version 054905377g is the same thing but with 7 modifications. Therefore the higher the letter the better. Sort the throttle closed position switch out, if it is faulty I suspect it is doing one of two things. 1. Not telling the ECU the car is at idle which would cause lots of stalling. 2. Telling the ECU the car is permanantly at idle, I would think this would cause problems when driving - could well be your problem.

They are Azev Type H. Glad you like em. http://www.azev.de/index_eng.html

Change the injectors, that is where the fuel gets out, but I didn't do this and still managed to resolve the problem.

I've done a couple of good ones. New Zealand road trip - Bay of Islands (North Island) to Queenstown (South Island) and then back up to Auckland. Absolutely brilliant, beautiful scenery, great roads and very little traffic. Germany road trip - Munich - Garmish - Stuttgart - Osanbruck - Wolfsburg - Nurburgring - home. Excellent trip if you like German cars.

Yep thats it. I'm not intirely sure, but I know it solved the problems on the MK1. On a freezing cold winter morning it would start instantly, but on a hot sunny day after a run and then being left for a while it would take loads of cranking and then start on 2 cylinders, then a 3rd would come in and finally all 4.

RW1, thanks for the info, I have been trying to find out a little more about this for a while. I have vag-com on my lap top, not sure what version though. I use it for my Seat Leon 20vt with OBD2, but have made an adaptor to change from the serial connection to the 4 plug on the Corrado. I have an opto isolated interface so it looks like I won't get very far with what I have. Can you offer any suggestions of where I can get an electronically isolated interface?

Only the ones that people have done themselves.

I doubt it, not unless there is so much oil your plugs are getting fouled up.

The 9a has ke-motronic, and does have on board diagnostics, but I'm unsure what vag-com software if any is compatible with it. ABF was the "tall block" fitted to Mk3 Golfs, Seat Ibizas etc, but not factory fitted to Corrados. If anyone has any info about using vag-com on a 9a I would be very interested.

I had this problem on my Mk1 Golf GTI, it used to start perfectly when cold after being left over night. I had the cold start injector dissconected too - it would not start at all with it plugged in.

Carl, the noise i meant was the one similar to someone sawing wood in the background! Hope replacing the missing belt helps. Make sure the belt is not damaged, if it snaps there is a very good chance of a fait amount of damage.

Sounds like leeky injectors or a the fuel accumulator is not doing its job anymore. The accumulator holds the fuel pressure whilst the engine is switched off.

Carefully incase you wish to try and return it, open the tin of black and paint a piece of card as a sample, if its basecoat you will need to lacquer it because the basecoat is for the colour only and has a satin finish. I'm sure the paint suppliers would take the primer, thinner and activator back, but not so sure about the black as they probably mixed it for you. You need to be 100% sure you have wether you have 2 pack black or black base coat. If its 2 pack you will mix it with activator and a little thinners, if its base coat you mix it with thinners only and must lacquer it. Be very carefull not to inhale the fumes as they are particularly nasty with 2 pack.

Have you removed the cam belt cover? Well worth having a look at the condition of the belt and tensioner, plus make sure either item is not catching on anything. I have had a similar noise due to the cam belt being too tight and noticed it only did it at low engine speeds and was worse when the engine was hot.

I was at a meet the other night and this mustang easily the fastest there. Faster than some beefed up Skyline, Subaru Imprezza, and even several motorbike engined Dax Rushes one of which was turbocharged too! This is a seriously fast and also very tidy car, my mate was up there on his 1200 Suzuki Bandit and after watching both of them I have to say the bike would've got beaten. This photo was taken in 1989 apparently and I'm pretty sure the bloke driving it is the same bloke who was in it te other night.

From my experience the plastic should be keyed using grey scotchbrite and then sprayed with plastic adhesion promoter which has no real build, looks like water to spray, but it helps the paint to stick. I would probably rub it down with 180 production paper and remove any lose paint. You will probably find some of the paint has stuck so feather the edges. Then plastic primer as mentioned above, then 2 pack hi build primer. Finaly guide coat all over and flat with 800 wet and dry.

Cool, Ill keep an eye out for an update. Won't be on here on Sunday though because I'm going to watch touring cars at Snetterton. :mrgreen:

If you are going to prime it you want use 2 pack primer too, but you don't want to inhale the fumes of this stuff, it is very bad for you. To be honest the time you will save them at the most I would just wet flat the panels and get them to sort the repairs unless you have experience in this. It is too easy to make more work for them by making good what you've done. I spent 4 years working for a bodyshop and saw plenty of well intentioned attempts at repairs which then had to be rectfiied. I don't mean to put you off having a go, but it may just be easier for you to leave it to the pros and do a couple of hours overtime to cover the extra cost.