corradophil

Eazy-bleed is an excellent tool. From my experience new fluid will be lighter in colour than the old stuff. I had to bleed the my system completely a couple of weeks ago because like a fool I let my master cylinder reservoir empty itself when changing the rear bushes. I had a nightmare getting a decent firm peddle, after 1.5 litres it was still very spongy, no air was coming out of any of the wheel cylinders and I had also blead the master cylinder. I had to leave it at that until I could get more fluid, It appears it had an airlock on the rear because after a couple of days air was present at the rears. It now has a good firm brake peddle again. If your peddle is spongy, it is very likely that the air is trapped in the rear brake pipes, not the front.

Looks good, I quite like the early bonnet, I reckon you should keep it and be different to most other Cs.

Dixxy, yeah I know they sound lovely, I do wish mine was a VR, although mine is not very far off in performance. Good luck with getting it sorted :wink:

Kev, yep mine went in with exactly the same protrusion as the originals. I did one at a time so I always had the other one to compare it too as well. Sounds like for once I should be glad I bought a valver instead of a VR6, cos this compensator sounds like a pain.

This is what you need, from http://www.lawson-his.co.uk/scripts/pro ... Bit%20Sets at £14!!!

Unfortunately I cannot offer much advise because I didn't need to touch the regulator on mine, but are you using Allen tools with a ratchet, or normal 'L@ shape Allen keys? If you don't have the tools mentioned, go and get a set. Obviously make sure the heads of the bolts are cleaned inside the hexagonal hole. If there is room hammer the tool in to the head of the bolt with a ball pain (dunno how you spell that :lol: ) hammer before un-doing them. It is supprising what several hard hits on the head of a bolt will do. If you round the hexagons you can try hammering a slightly large torx bit into the head.

Loads of my mates are going for the whole weekend, bit I'm probably going for the Sunday only.

Hmmm, definately a different design to mine, the valve is well clear of the bolt, the bracket attached to the rear beam which the spring hooks on to has a large hole to allow the bolt to pass through it! Is yours a VR6?

I've read comments about the rear brake compensator before. I just removed the bracket its spring attaches to from the rear beam and left it alone. There must be two different designs. Agreed on the ABS cables, just pull out the rear seat base and un-plug them, pop the grommets out feed the cables under the car, far easier than trying to remove the ABS sensors.

Dixxy, Unless you have the proper tool to press the bushes out and in, I would remove the rear beam from the car. Mine was off in under two hours. Once off chain drill the rubber out to allow you to remove the centre of the bush leaving just the steel outer. Carefully hacksaw a groove through the remaining outer part to releave some of the tightness of the bush (Be carefull only to cut through the bush, not the rear beam). Using a hammer and chisel you can peel the steel outer away and eventually knock it out. To fit the new ones buy some studding and nuts which will fit through the centre, plus you need to organise some sort of packing to fit the outer flange of the new bush, you must press them in on the outer not the centre. Dr Forinor, The easiest place to look is probably a haynes manual for a similar age Passat or Mk2 Golf. Mine is a 16v which has different bushes to a VR6, so not sure if my description above would apply to yours.

If you have access to a timing light, a free, quick thing to check is the ignition timing, otherwise I'd go with what everyone else said. Also what about the injectors?? These are not cheap at around £120, but they are an easy D.I.Y installation and at 140K miles made a noticable performance increase on my valver.

They're fitted :mrgreen: I went for OEM spec beam bushes from GSF in the end, I also replaced the rear top mount rubbers while I had it in bits. The lower of the two top mounts had definatelty squashed up a bit, but otherwise the top mount condition was fine. I started at 11.30am on Saturday, the beam was off within two hours, between my dad and myself we changed the bushes and had the suspension built up with the brakes re-connected by 7.00pm Saturday night. The job was not as bad as I thought it would be. The biggest hassle was caused by me forgetting to seal the flexi break hoses which meant the reservoir emptied :brickwall: so it had a brake fluid change too. Lots of :drinking: was then required, followed by me putting all the trim back in the boot, bleeding the brakes and getting it off its axle stands back on to four wheels in yesterdays heat with a megga hang over. My first impressions, it is much more responsive to steering input and also there is less vibration from the rear end.

Very good cars, I am lucky enough to have my C and an early 20vt petrol Cupra. A mate has a Black 150bhp TDI Cupra and although the characteristics of the engines are very different it would keep up with mine, plus he gets 600 miles from a tank compared to my 320!!

Fireforce 1 & 2 run at that and quicker, the first time I saw a jet car run it was the yellow one, can't remember if that is 1 or 2 and it did a terminal speed of around 270mph which was enough to impress me. They have a new one, Fireforce 3 which I read about, this apparently will do 330mph terminal. The only cars I have seen which are faster are top fuel dragsters, which are amaizing. There are other jet cars though, which are just novelty things which don't go very quickly.

I have Proxes T1-S, they seem fine from a handling point of view, but have to admit they do wear suprisingly quickly.

I don't think the problem is the forum, more a reflection of how people feel in general. Its just easier to express strong feelings via a forum, than say face to face. I have no idea what has gone on, but hopfully Kev will return soon.

For a 9A it is 6 deg before tdc at 2250rpm IIRC. I can double check that for you, but not till tomorrow. As far as I remember there is nothing to disconnect either, again I can check. You must make sure you use the correct timing mark on the flywheel, it is easily mixed up with the tdc (0 deg) mark.

mistrall, The KR inlet cam needs no modification, just needs fitting. matthewb1985, I have tried mine with cat and with cat bypass, I prefer it with the cat. More torquey and less of a raspy exhaust note. It is also legal. I would get a KR inlet cam and make sure everything is set up correctly i.e. ignition timing, and CO. At around 140,000 miles I replaced my injectors, this made as bigger difference as the cam. They cost around £120, but were well worth doing, they took about 20 minutes to fit. None of the mods I have done made a huge difference, so if you want a big increase in power you are better off with a G60 or VR6. Don't be put off the valver though, they are quick and very reliable too.

I tried to space the original calipers out, but the G60 280mm disc is wider than the 256mm 16v one, so you either have to file away your brake pads or get the correct calipers, obviously you get the correct calipers. You can also use calipers and carriers from a MK3 Golf combined with G60 discs and pads. I didn't have to change my flexi hoses either, the orginals have exactly the same thread. However later on I upgraded to Goodridge braded hoses all round.

That must be the case, funny how it is only ever mentioned on Corrados though.

Just spoken to VW dealers and got a part number for rear bushes for a 1990 MK2 Golf GTI. It is 191 501 541, exactly the same as the Corrado ones. So, do MK2 Golfs have passive rear steering, which the Corrado is so famous for, or do Corrado 16v/G60s have MK2 Golf spec bushes without passive rear steering? Maybe the passive rear steering is only on VR6 Corrados which have different bushes. I am going to get OEM bushes from Euro or GSF.

I think I am going to go for OEM. The part numbers on GSF and Euro's sites are identical for Mk2 Golf/Jetta & Corrado. This means either Mk2 Golfs and Jettas also have passive rear steering, which I am under the impression is not the case, or Corrados with these bushes (16v or G60) do not. I have not checked VAG part numbers yet, which would definately answer this question. If the VAG part numbers are different, then I will be tempted to buy from VW, otherwise I will probably get them from Euro. I have a VAG part number for Corrado rear bushes - 191 501 541, just got to ring them up and get the mk2 equivalent.

Hmmm, I was tempted to use poly bushes, because I am very happy with ones I put on the front, and Chris VR6nos's comments back this choice up. Then Kev kind of changed my mind a bit, and G60Renshaw changed it some more and made me decide on OEM.... olly elworthy, did you notice an increase in noise and vibration when you fitted them. My car is used on the road only and unless someone buys it will become my daily driver again soon, so I don't want a hard as nails unrefined ride, I had enough of that in my MK1 Golf.

Without seeing a photo it is hard to suggest what they are planning to do, but if it is just the arch, they maybe expect you to supply an arch repair panel, not the whole rear quarter which would be a big job to do. If it is just the arch which is damaged, they can cut the damaged piece out and weld in the repair arch and fill it to shape. This is the method used to repair rusty wheel arches. If you managed to supply them a whole rear quarter I bet they would cut out what is needed to repair your original. Apart from being a smaller job, you also retain the factory seams between the panels keeping it looking un-touched.

I'd like two too. I can keep them on my desk at work. An executive toy Corrado. :lol: