corradophil

I replaced the knock sensor on my Golf I used to have about 4 years ago, only 1 fitted to a 1990 8v GTI! It was about £50ish and took ages to get. The knock sensor question came up because someone else asked if there are 1 or 2 on a 9A. I doubt they are causing the hesitancy in your case. The knock sensors are there to correct timing, if you had an earlier 1800 16v you would not have them at all. Things I would check are. 1. Are all servicable items in reasonable condition, by these I mean, spark plugs, HT leads, rotor arm, distributor cap, fuel filter, air filter? 2. Are there any vaccum leaks on any of the hoses? 3. Is the fuel pump particularly noisy, if it is then it is struggling and probably not providing enough fuel pressure. 4. Are the ignition timing, valve timing and fueling set correctly?

Only! it's better than what alot people would use in their older cars :wink: I just don't hammer mine until up to normal water temp.

They would be, but there is no need to replace it. You just need to remove it off the bottom of the lift pump and clean the sediment out of it. I'm not 100% sure yours will have one, I am sure I've looked on mine but it was ages ago and I just cannot remember. Hopefully someone else can confirm it. To be honest it is quite an easy job to do anyway, so if it was me I'd have a look.

Can you record the noise and post it? It's not necessarily anything to worry about, but you need to identify what it is quickly just incase it is.

Could be, try the filter first. I cannot remember for definate, but pretty sure there is a lift pump in the fuel tank on these, there is a gauze strainer on it's pick up which can get blocked, it will restrict fuel flow to the main pump of blocked making it noisy and as i experienced in my Golf GTI reducing performance and eventually not running at all. It's easy enough to check, by pulling the boot carpet up, removing the inspection plate, and then removing the fuel sender housing.

Unfortunately not, they are basically microphones listening for pre-ignition, ie the spark plug fires too early causing the combustion to take place while the piston is still travelling up the cylinder, which can be very harmfull to the engine. This is known as knock, pinking or pinging, particularly noticable going up a hill in a high gear with at full or near full throttle, you can hear a quiet tinkling sort of noise, if you back off the throttle it will stop. Is the oil light on, after start up when its knocking? If so first check your oil level, if ok you need to look at the oil pump strainer and the pump itself. Does the knocking sound like a light rattly noise from the top of the engine (lifters) or more a kind of banging noise at the bottom of the engine (bearings).

Here you go. Just taken photos of both sensors on mine. You can't see the sensor in "Knock 2" very clearly because the rubber cap for the sender on top of the oil cooler is in the way, but I can assure you it is there and looks identical to the one in "knock 1"

With the ignition switched on in should energise, then you can de-energise it by disconnecting it. Hopefully what you have done already will help, although these isv's are a pain in the arse when they start messing around.

Heres a clue

Nope thats not it, thats an engine bay air temp sender. Look on the block, lower half probably rusty part of engine where the arrows are pointing. The yellow line I have drawn might be one of the cables, but hard to tell.

Can you post a photo of the front of your engine, I will download it and add arrows to the sensors so you can identify them.

Just ignition on mate.

Agreed my Leon (Mk4 Golf based) has an amaizing amount of grip, and is very predictable.

I'd do a search, chipping these has been discussed loads. Unless you have a turbo engine, or have made some big changes to your engine I would think achievable gains over a well set up stock engine are going to be small.

Well mine is a K reg 1993 2.0 16v with a 9A and it definately has 2. I'd imagine they would have the same part number. Before replacing them, i'd remove them and give them a good clean up, I'd clean the sensors, their connections (3 pin plugs IIRC) and the block where they bolt on. When re-fitting make sure you tighten them to the correct torque, as apparently this affects their operation. Have a look under your bonnet they are very easy to locate. They are black plastic with a black cable.

If its a std 150BHP 20vt Golf, I would say the Corrado would easily beat it. My 180 BHP Leon would struggle against a friends MK3 Golf VR6. Not sure about the Mini though.

By energising/de-energising the isv the valve physically opens and closes, doing this whilst soaked in WD40 or similar helps to remove the oily tarnished stuff more easily. I have had better results using this method than by just soaking it.

There are two knock sensors on the 9A, they are bolted to the front of the block, 1 between no. 1 & 2 cylinders, the other between 3 & 4. They are approx 15mm dia with a bolt going through the middle and 1 chunky cable coming from each. What code reader did you use?

I've used WD40 in the past and with the iginition on repeatledly connected and disconnected the the isv's electrical connection.

I agree with that. Have a read through the rest of the thread about a long cranking time. When it does start does it start on all 4 cylinders, or 2 or 3 then after a few seconds of running fires on all 4? By the way what engine is yours?

It certainly is, although this won't stop the engine starting with throttle and I cannot see it causing missfire. Basically it is an electronically contolled valve which has the same effect as keeping the engine running using the throttle. So what exactly is wrong with yours which you are trying to cure with a blue temp sender.

The red bit is definately the idle stabilisation valve. This would not cause a missfire though going, back to the original post of this thread.

Leaking injector dribbling petrol into one of the combustion chambers over night, which means it is flooded in one chamber in the morning or after being left for a long time. Can't remember off the top of my head. Does this have a thermotime switch? Might be woth checking if it does. Also I am guessing it has an accumulator which keeps the fuel pressurised whilst not running, so when you start it the pressure does not have to be built up by the fuel pump. Maybe this is playing up. Try disconnecting the cold start injector's electrical connection, you might find this is flooding it at start up. Hopefully all or some of the above appilies to the KR engined Corrado. The above things messed up the starting of My Mk1 GTI which had K-Jet.

It would be a real shame if they closed. When I was there they weren't just making cars, they were milling moulds for panels to be used by other companies too. They have Corrado bonnet (and others) hanging up on the production line which was signed by the workers when production ended.

Yeah, seen this run a few times now. it is almost as quick as my Corrado :lol: I haven't seen any others which are quicker.