corradophil

I get about 33mpg from mine in normal use with some occasional hard driving.

Yep, I knew this would produce varying posts, but the more opinions the better. It is good to be able to draw from other peoples experience before deciding. Interesting comments about the front camber, I remember experimenting with the camber on my MK1 Golf, I think I ended up at around 1 - 1.5 degrees negative and that stuck like sh$t to a blanket.

Click the invisible link below for one of the best manufacturers of invisible exhausts :lol: Can you see the rear box currently fitted to your car? If not Why not cut the original tail pipe off and get a downsept tail pipe welded on. You need to make sure the gasses escape from under the rear of the car. A mate of mine put 90 spec big bumpers on his early MK2 Golf, the original tail pipes did not protrude from the rear bumper which meant the exhaust gas used to build up under the car and enter the boot filling the interior with fumes. Not good.

nick48480, I'll probably change mine before then, so I'll post my comments when it complete. davidwort, Glad you are happy with the outcome of your work, I am more inclined to go for OEM ones. I am yet to experience how good a Corrado can handle, mine isn't bad, but both my Golf GTIs and my standard Leon Cupra were/are more impressive than the Corrado at the moment.

I have read loads of posts about rear bushes. Some people swear by vag ones because you retain the passive rear wheel steering effect. Others say if you have uprated suspension, which mine does, use poly ones because they will withstand greater loads keeping the geometry correct during cornering although losing the passive rear steering. My C has poly front bushes and I am very pleased with them, but plan to change the rears soon, so I'm interested to get as many opions as possible from people who have changed them to help me decide.

I would check all vaccum hoses for leaks or being trapped causing them to block. You could also clean all electrical connections, this is quick easy and practically free, except for some contact cleaner, a high resistance will cause an incorrect signal to the ecu. Also you should check all sensors i.e. temp, lambda etc are working correctly. After doing the checks for the general condition of everything, I would look into making sure it is set up correctly. Check the ignition timing with a strobe light, be very carefull to make sure you find the correct mark on the flywheel, it will be 6 degrees before top dead centre. You can also set up the fuel mixture on the metering head using a multimeter. Its a while since I have done this, but you have to connect an ammeter inline with the electrical connection on the side of the metering head, the value you get should fluctuate between a definate range, if its not within the correct range you need to make a simple adjustment. I set mine up this way and it saled through the emmisions test at the mot and with a few mods produces good power. You will need a decent manual to do this properly, particularly the setting on the metering head.

Depends how bad the flaking is and how long it will take to remove the paint which has a problem. Generally bodyshops will estimate how many hours the repair will take, and allow for materials. Id budget for £100 - £200 for a decent quality job.

In my Corrado, yes. I never noticed it untill I got my Seat which is standard. If its all getting too much you could give me your Borbets!!

Mine is running 6 degrees, to be honest, I didn't gain anything noticable on the road by advancing it further. Mine has Ke-Motronic which also has knock sensors to retard the timing if pinking occurs.

232bhp at 550Kg = 422bhp/tonne

Hmmm I can see this thread turning into a "My flower pot is bigger and better than yours" debate. David any tips you can offer for changing the bushes would be appreciated.

Getting back to the fast street car, every Wednesday night at the Dick Turpin Pub on the A127 in Basildon they have a car meet, mainly American muscle cars and hot rods. Sometimes a few street legal drag cars turn up too. When they all leave, most of them go flat out up the A127. A couple of years ago, the first time I went, a Ford Mustang drag racer came out of the car park and by the time he got to where I was standing his front wheels were about one foot off the ground. Not sure what sort of power it was running, but it was very quick, cannot be far behind the Calibra.

Is that a flower pot fitted to your rear suspension?? How much of an improvement did it provide? :lol:

When I was last at Santa Pod, they were discussing top fuel dragsters over the pa system, the commentator said they hit 100mph in about 1 second roughly as they pass the christmas tree. They do around 300mph by the end of a standing quarter which takes about 5 or 6 seconds. Top fuel dragsters have around 6000bhp. Absolutely amaizing, for anyone who likes powerful cars, this is a must see.

David, I think I will be doing this soon on mine, I will have to use the same nut, bolt and washer method, I did this when changing my front bushes. To be honest I found getting the old ones out a lot harder than putting the new ones in. How much were the bushes?

David, how long did it take you, and did you use the vw tool for removal and replacment of the bushes? Does the car drive noticably better now?

Cool, I know that feeling. I waited 5 years to get mine.

My indicator switch smoked just after I bought my C, the indicators did not need to be on for this to happen either.

Thats interesting, mine was about 118bhp at the wheels, 162bhp at the flywheel with 17" wheels and a lightened flywheel.

I got asked that many years ago and now run a 4 channel amp with components in the front and a sub in the boot. I'd never go bother going back to rear speakers again, despite the moaning I get from people on the back seat. :? Don't take that last bit the wrong way :lol:

I had to modify mine with some steel extensions to reduce the incline!

O.k. cheers Kev, if my C does not sell soon, this could be my next project partly inspired by reading the group buy thread you have been doing. I'm fed up with 1/3 of my boot space being filled by a huge sub box.

I have a JL Audio 12WO which requires a sealed sub box capacity if 28 litres, which is huge in a Corrado boot. I'm prepared to accept a small reduction in its performance to gain some boot space, but will a smaller enclosure cause any harm to the sub?

I had no luck on my 2.0 16v either. Does vag-com v311 work on the 2x2 plug?

Got to the point of selling it after 3years, see for sale section (link in my siganture). I am driving a Seat Leon Cupra, but getting very close to selling the Leon and keeping the Corrado. To be honest the Seat is no more reliable (neither car has completely let me down and bits are ot falling off my Corrado), costs more to insure and is less economical from a petrol point of view. It is a bit dull to drive too. On the plus side the Leon is faster and way more refined.