corradophil

I've not looked into it yet, but are the originals not chromed???

76.9p/Litre for unleaded, wouldn't it be nice if it dropped more.

What about having them re-chromed, I am considering doing this with my fog lights.

Corrado21 or 41 :D

I cleaned and re lubricated the fan on my Mk2 3 years ago and its still ok. Just done the fan on my C over christmas, it was full of dust, but all cleaned and greased now and its lovely again.

Lovely looking car except for the colour in my opinion of course :wink:

German Car Company used to do Rallye front end kits for £500 approx, I used drool over the one on show every time I went there, untill I got my C :D

I'm not the biggest Ferrari fan, but that looks cool. 8)

MK1 Polos are very rare. As far as I know they did 895cc - 40BHP, 1100cc - 50 BHP, 1300cc - 60 or 70 BHP, can't remember the horsepower of the 1300, but I always wanted one of them. It was the same engine as in the smaller engine Golfs etc. Heres a photo of mine, its the only one I took after lowering it, it was taken the morning after I wrote it off :cry:

Thats a Mk1 Polo, not a Golf :wink: I had a 78 T mars red one just like it as my first car, really wish I still had it, although the 895 cc engine would have had to go :mrgreen:

I spent 5 weeks in NZ and saw 1 Corrado in Auckland, loads of Skylines though, they are like Saxos over there :wink:

I didn't notice any change in fuel consumption. If you happy to do the work yourself therefore it won't cost you anything, give it a go. You can always change it back if you really don't like it, but I'm sure you will keep it.

Yes, but its not too bigger difference, made my car feel more lively, at 4500rpm it really picks up. 8)

Even better if you don't need access to the thermostat. Well worth flushing it all through with a hose too.

dubweiser, is it sorted now, I had to go out so i've only just looked at the forum again this morning. I suggested removing the thermostat, because if its shut which it probably was assuming the coolant was resonably cool, the coolant will still be trapped in the engine, therefore you only drain the radiator. I've done it loads of times, you take the bottom hose off, the radiator drains, then when you remove the thermostat you get a similar amount of coolent come out again. You can actually do this pretty quickly once you are familiar with the power steering brackets.

Remove the thermostat where the bottom hose joins the water pump. 2 bolts, you will need a 10mm socket. Unfortunately its behind the power stearing pump, so that needs unbolting first.

F*$k, glad you came out of it ok, didn't expect it to be that bad. Good luck with your next project.

Excellent, puts a grin on your face and in comfort too. Looks like a very nice car :)

I'm very happy with mine, no downsides at all. Don't expect huge differences in performance, it will feel a little more lively particularly in 1st, and a bit in 2nd though. To be honest contrary to what I expected I actually prefur it in traffic now, there is more engine breaking so as long as you can feather the throttle it is easier, because you have less need for using the brakes. It obviously involves removing the gearbox and clutch, which will be costly, if you are not doing it yourself and have to pay someones labour, i'd wait until the gearbox has to come off.

Yes, I'm still running the original 9A inlet manifold. I purchased a Carbide Bur tool, for the aluminium (Inlet and Head). I removed a fair bit of material from around the injectors on the inlet. Also I opened the manifolds and ports out to match the gaskets, plus at each joint I made sure there are no steps down in size i.e. where the inlet bolts to the head, the head is opened out around 0.5mm - 1mm larger diameter than the manifold. The exhaust manifold has quite a restriction on no. 3 cylinder IIRC, this is because one of the bolts which holds it to the head is very close, I ground this restriction down as much as possible, in fact I went too far, and had to weld it up. I also opened the area adjacent to the restriction. I used a grinding stone for the exhaust. All items were then finished with small flap wheels, starting corse and getting finer to give a good finish. All tools were used on a flexi drive in an electric drill because I do not have a compressor or die grinder.

I think thats the right decision, maybe spend the money making sure its set up correctly, you could still put a gas flowed head on. With that it would be similar to my spec, therefore should have similar power. Its fast enough to not be worth changing the car for a VR6 in my opinion, although the sound of the VR is loveley. I also spent several hours modifying the manifolds on mine. I can't say what difference it made because I did the head at the same time..

Very nice car, nicer looking and a little quicker than my Cupra. Have a look at seatcupra.net, lots of info on there.

Hard to say what BHP, the best i've seen with 268/276 cams on a 2.0 16v running K-Jetronic was just over 200 BHP! This was someone on the Club Gti forum, sorry cannot remember who. Don't forget these are longer duration than what you are interested in. Someone else with a similar spec engine in a Mk2 Golf had the same cams as me at the same time, he is GVK on the Club Gti forum, he gave up on his way before me, there was a huge thread about it, It's well worth searching the Club Gti forum on this topic. Just remembered, the bloke I bought my cams from, tried 260 Schricks, 268/276 Schricks and KR cams back to back at Stealth, the KRs were best, he sold both sets of Schricks on here. With KR cams he was getting around 170 BHP. His name is Alan, and he is also on Club Gti. You will probably lose some low-mid rev torque with the cams.

Trouble is, the valver already produces its power at high revs, and the cams take this further. General opinion seems to indicate KE-Motronic is not ideal for high lift/duration cams too. At low revs the airflow meter flap becomes unstable which worsens the rough running normaly experienced. I agree the 268/276s are too wild for normal road use, but even getting near 7000 RPM they showed no real improvement over Kr spec cams. I've seen cams work very well with twin 45 Webers which have much more scope for being setting up correctly, but from my experience with the same engine as mrbeige, I wouldn't want to risk it. Just my opinion after a whole load of messing around and getting nowhere, however if you do buy them I will be very interested to hear how it goes and hope your experience would be better then mine.

I tried Schrick 268/276 cams in mine, and was very dissapointed, very lumpy idle, and when I replaced them with std exhaust/KR inlet cam the car felt so much quicker. So my vote is :( How many miles has yours done? I replaced my injectors at 140,000 miles and it made a small but noticable improvement.