robrado974 1 Posted September 14, 2015 Looks like your on the home straight Jim . Looking great . I use the black butty tape at work too , what do you do ? . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted September 14, 2015 I work for a company that makes timber framed houses (posh ones), i work in the office designing/detailing them, CAD work etc Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted September 16, 2015 Bummer. Just found these. They are the clips for the fuel injectors. Seems i forgot to fit them. So going to have to remove a few things. Oh well. Should be glad i noticed them now i guess. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisL 15 Posted September 16, 2015 Bummer indeed, but on the other hand the cars looking great! Well done. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1xshaunx1 27 Posted September 17, 2015 I bet you used some choice words when it clicked/noticed them. You've got to laugh though, Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Philuk 0 Posted September 18, 2015 Buggar! That's a turd ain't it! What condition are they in? VW still sel them brand new and iirc they were about a pound each, mine were all rusted Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robrado974 1 Posted September 18, 2015 I work for a company that makes timber framed houses (posh ones), i work in the office designing/detailing them, CAD work etc Nice one . Bummer about the injector clips mate . At least you spotted it . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 30 Posted September 18, 2015 What's the deal with the injector clips? Do they need to be replaced? Was it easy to get the old injectors out without losing bits of the seals, and then putting the new ones back in? sorry about all the questions - just looking to do this myself soon as I now have my refurbed injectors back from Mr Injector. Great service by the way. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted September 18, 2015 Quite hard to pull out the rail and then pull out injectors as well, i didn't damage anything doing mine though. Think i used some WD40 onto the seals first. Almost seemed too easy to push back in, i am hoping they are sealed ok :lol: Not sure if mr injectors o-rings were slightly smaller O.D or if when i cleaned up the holes on fuel rail and inlet i over did it and made them slightly larger. Got the clips fitted last night and everything back together. Wasn't too bad a job. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanl82 23 Posted September 18, 2015 When I did mine, they were a pig to remove and replace, but the old seals came out perfectly intact. I think the refirb set you get from Mr Injector come with new seals anyway, but if not they're about £6 each from VW! Just be very gentle when refitting them and use some lube on the seals, as I forced one and broke the brown plastic bit surrounding the jet, which subsequently fell into the head! Luckily my engine was out and on a stand, so I tipped it upside down and it all came out. (It snapped in 2 and was a clean break luckily). I also had a spare set of injectors that I'd ultrasonically cleaned and refirbed myself so I got off relatively lightly. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted September 28, 2015 Well its now up and running (got a few issues but i'll get them sorted) Felt good to get it out the garage. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mic_VR 3 Posted September 28, 2015 Good job mate, bet you're pretty chuffed. You'll sort the last few issues I'm sure. I'll be keeping an eye out on the roads! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted September 28, 2015 I'll be keeping an eye out on the roads! Only on the dry days :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sexybourbon 0 Posted September 28, 2015 Feels great when they have been in parts for so long !! Whats the last few issues then ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted September 28, 2015 -Won't idle from cold unless holding revs up for about 30secs (had this problem before all the work, so must be a sensor or something) -Dash coolant gauge still reads low -ABS light is on (VCDS say both front wheel sensors) -Aux water pump doesn't seem to run after engine is turned off, enough though the fans do Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 30 Posted September 28, 2015 Did you replace all the coolant sensors and are the plugs on the correct ones? Do the wheel sensor faults stay after clearing them and driving the car? Could be the wiring to the sensors. Your idle issue has to be wiring or one of the engine sensors that input to the ECU. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted September 28, 2015 ABS light just stays on, enough if i clear the DTC's. Only driven about 100 meters and didn't really go that fast, maybe 15mph. Coolant temp sensors were replaced but i can't be sure how new the ones i put in were, i might just buy two new ones so i know they are new (unless i can test the ones i have) i must have a bag of about 2-3 of each. Am going to go with FPR and lambda for now to cure the running issues, i do have vcds but not sure where to go to check the readings from the lambda etc Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 30 Posted September 28, 2015 There is a test value screen where you can see all the readings and graph them over time. Think it's called measuring blocks. I'm away at the moment but happy to take some readings off my car when I'm back to compare with yours. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted September 28, 2015 I did have a whirring/bearing noise coming from the fuel pump once, lasted a week or so and then went away, that was a few years back though so never thought any more of it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 30 Posted September 28, 2015 Sounds like something may have been blocking it and then went. You should never really hear the VR pump unless you are at the boot with the lid off. You can check fuel pressure handily enough using a pressure gauge connected to the bleed nipple on the injector rail. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
science 0 Posted September 28, 2015 -Won't idle from cold unless holding revs up for about 30secs (had this problem before all the work, so must be a sensor or something) -Dash coolant gauge still reads low -ABS light is on (VCDS say both front wheel sensors) -Aux water pump doesn't seem to run after engine is turned off, enough though the fans do Both the coolant gauge and the aux fan are controlled by the yellow temp sensor. Have a look at "The definitive VR6 cooling guide" on the forum for testing. The ABS light, as fendervr says, is likely to be the connectors on top of the suspension torrents or under the under the wheel arches (if you didn't have the problem before). Worth adjusting the dashpot on the throttle body to try and maintain idle, if not test the isv. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chuggs1 10 Posted September 29, 2015 Ah must check that ABS fix myself.... Mine is intermittent and was thinking it was probably a connector somewhere. .... Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted September 29, 2015 Checked the yellow sensor last night and it is a new one i got from GSF, might try another. ABS system is the Teves20 upgrade so no connectors on the turrents, i took the front wheel sensors off and obviously not as new as i thought, were covered in bits of metal from the grinding/welding and a bit rusty and split so think i'll renew them as well. Have mucked about with the dashpot, i think if i adjust to keep the idle up when cold it'll be too high when warm. ISV has been off loads, cleaned and tested with the 12v power supply, seemed ok, (have also tried the spare), i renewed the damper box thing attached to the isv and checked and refitted all the pipes to it. Injectors have been refurbed as well. Going to try the new FPR, a new Lambda for now, then will test fuel pressure and renew the pump if needed (think these are the last few bits i've never changed, rest of the mechanical parts are new now :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
science 0 Posted September 29, 2015 I think it might be worth bridging the pins in the yellow temp sensor plug to check the function for the aux pump. I doubt the lambda will be the source of the low idle as its ignored by the ECU until the car is warmed up. Unless the car thinks it's warmed up due to a faulty blue temp sensor/wiring??? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted September 29, 2015 Struggling to find the yellow sender now, did a vagcat and got the part number and this turns up https://www.vwheritage.com/shop/701919369D/switch-temp-sender-100-95c-20mm-black-blue-t4-90-03/ Says its blue, but the description says it does coolant gauge and water pump/fans run on. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
