Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Today
  2. Amazing work chap! crazy attention to detail πŸ™
  3. Inspirational work mate....makes me want to pull my finger out and get mine sorted Also thinking of going down the Koni / H&R route...how are you finding the ride height?
  4. Yesterday
  5. Clean pass on the MOT. Still long crank when warm though. And another issue I had thought would "go away" with use is the flywheel. It had the chains/clutch etc last year at stealth but it judders when you engage clutch, mot place reckons flywheel needs work. I'll take it back to Vince, want to swap out subframe and fit uprated ARBs anyway and don't fancy the job myself.
  6. Here are the clips https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221255683151?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=oVHWpHOgT3q&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=fE0d-bB2R7m&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Mine were missing on my last corrado after a respray and it is surprising how much collects in the boot without these! Are you door plastic sheeting membranes good and well sealed with butyl type adhesive? Water gets through otherwise at a surprising rate.
  7. It runs from each corner of the sunroof cassette. There is a small plastic host attached to it which runs down the inside of the A pillar, into the scuttle area and out of the drain channel near the wing.
  8. Do you happen to have any photos showing the location of the sunroof drain?
  9. The door cards are off at the moment and they look perfect. I'm going to pour some warer down the window just to be sure. The Corrado badge definately needs attention as it's come away from the body at one side. Is anywhere selling the clipes and grommets? I'd be suprised if it was just this though as quote a lot of water is finding its way into the boot. I plan on getting into the boot myself while it's close and have someone pour water around it.
  10. Last week
  11. I've been so busy with work that I've had to shelve my plan of getting my rado legal this month. Highly annoying seen as the weather has been great! I'm looking to get it sorted for the 1st of June and will give all these suggestions a try. Chris Knott will be my first port of call due to the fact that you are present on our forum. Thank you for the web link! Very helpful. thank you to all.
  12. Also the sunroof drain as well as the door membranes. The water will pool at the lowest point, so it can be hard to work out where exactly it's getting in - but doing the seal on the fresh air intake is a good call. The issue is you will need to remove at least the right one of the three piece lower window edge trim, and this is most likely stuck on with sealant, which will have to be very carefully cut off so as not to damage the glass. Originally from the factory each panel is held won by a couple of two-piece plastic clips, but as these are old and brittle they are likely to break during removal - but replacements are easily got online.
  13. They are also stuck on with a gasket, however have you checked the membrane behind the door card? This is often the source of water in the pass footwell and the membranes get battered over the years. Rear boot leak - have the grommets behind the badges been off and not replaced?
  14. I must be the oldest newbie in town having joined in 2004. But I guess if you only post 50 odd times in 20 years then you're still classed as a newbie! πŸ™‚ Anyway, I'm trying to get my VR6 watertight so that I can use it more. I have water ingress into the passenger footwell and also the boot, but it's the former that I'm trying to tackle currently... I've been doing research online and it seems that the most likely culprit is the drainage around the fresh air intake. I'm assuming that I need to take the plastic cover off in order to remove the airbox and replace the seal. It seems that I need to take the section of scuttle cover off because the rear of the plastic airbox cover is secured under it, but I'm vary waring of breaking the cover and the clips as I know how hard it will be to replace them. I've been able to pry the front of scuttle cover up from under the metal clips and I've removed the screw in the corner, but it's still held in place by something underneath, which I assume are plastic clips? Are there any tricks to removing the cover without breaking anything? Any exploded diagrams would be very useful also so that I can see what I'm dealing with. Thanks in advance!
  15. Ha- "Stark Industries"! They must be having a laugh, or else it's a play on the German, "stark" meaning "strong", or in slang cool/sound/great.
  16. Yeah he cancelled the order in the end... However I swapped out the cam sensor to the one from my previous Corrado and changed the coil pack back to the origina VW item that came with the car and it started ok after a long warm up to fans last night. Time will tell and needs road use. MOT booked later this week. I ordered a Beru coil pack from autodoc but they delivered a Stark item. I know it is an unknown brand but was running it. I didn't open the box for months, cheeky buggers changed the invoice online to Stark also. There is no way i'd pick that brand myself.
  17. Haha. In Ireland the premiums only ever go up!
  18. With AXA on a classic policy here in Ireland, €290 fully comp with two drivers and claims protection. Need to have a daily insured with them though.
  19. Based in Germany, seems completely legit. If they list on fleabay.co.uk they should be willing to ship? Could be an issue with the carrier, so maybe ask them to ship DP/DPD standard post. I get stuff from Germany all th time, alebit to Ireland, but I use an AdressPal service in the UK and US for sellers that won't ship internationally and just pay a surchage for the final leg.
  20. This is the advert https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266805869325 It's well below the Β£135 value as well.
  21. Seems strange - from where? They just need to declare a customs value - it’s more likely the shipping agent they are using.
  22. Ebay seller is now saying won't post to England... I have pleaded please πŸ™.. awaiting a reply otherwise back to making a loom for a later style sensor.
  23. If it was me I'd leave the non-return valve off. I had one fitted and regret it a bit now - initially it leaked, which is obviously fixable, but it's just a potential weak point in the fuel line. It doesn't solve the warm start issue either, as it's not a fuel pressure thing. Interesting about the cam sensor though. I might try this as well.
  24. I have found one in Europe on ebay and taken a 5% discount but had a rogering of 30Euro to have it posted. Given you've both had possible success, it's obsolete and this could be my last chance to get the right part it's worth it if it lasts another 30 years.
  25. Just to add to the cam sensor idea, it may be the solution. I had changed my pump and one way valve, yet the car was still SORN so I was only warming it up running in the garage. After this I had an issue with fumes from the back of the engine and the little rectangular box went BOOM. I changed my Cam sensor and the coil pack which got it running fine again. Now on the road it has no issues. So one of those things solved my issue. Good luck with it, you will sort it πŸ‘
  26. OK I'll give the making a loom a bash and will buy the alternative cam sensor. I will put my used spare one in for now also but can't be sure that part is any good. Will also put the one way valve in and do the FPR as have a new Bosch one sitting here. This could also be a mixture of things I suppose, couple of weaknesses bringing the system down. Cam sensor must get pretty beat with heat. I have come across a guide to test with a multimeter and will compare results of both my sensors whislt I await figuring out how to do the loom
  1. Load more activity
  • Create New...