Keyo

To be honest Fen ill pass it over to Vince at some point with, VDO unit , 1 pin sensor and the plug if I can source one. Maybe the single pin will work out an easier install hopefully as it is the designated part number attached to the VDO gauges(1pin)

Ill pm you mate what I had to pay, would not say it was good value but at the end of the day a nice bit of kit none the less . On the part diagram it signals a single pin as it has the VDO gauges part number next to it so maybe that one will last longer then the 2 pin set up god knows. Have you got a part number for the plug Fen ? Cheers.

Ok managed to but an aftermarket sensor https://www.mister-auto.co.uk/sender-unit-oil-pressure/fae/14120/. Would of purchased OE but was a whopping £144.00 from classics, the FAE aftermarket one was £28.00 . it was the last one available I could find anywhere so feel quite lucky to be honest !

Hi anyone got the loom and sensor 535 919 561 B its for VDO gauge cluster the OE optional one from factory. I have managed to buy the volt and oil VDo cluster part number 536 919 527 and now need to source a loom and sender 0-10 bar. Switch im sourcing is part number 535 919 561 B number 21 on diagram. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks Can get one from classics but a absolute rip off. http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_single/catalog/vw/markt/RDW/modell/COR/year/1995/drive_standart/76/hg_ug/919/subcategory/212010/part_id/3690238/lang/e

Sure stock speedlines are great I have some refurbished in the garage under a blanket , I've not long managed to source some BBS RX226 which are loveleyyyy and took me just over a year to source, also have a set of the split rim version BBS RS771 which are at present on the car.

Yeah I can totally understand that, it could even attract thieves to steal your car for them as well, Must admit Im half soaked about getting some and I think the BBS RA stock on the golf look really great and very unique compared to today's alloys so will probably leave stock.

Thanks I actually stumbled across the thread for sale where you advertised them, do you regret selling them? bet they sold for a pretty penny. how much were they advertised for if you don't mind me asking (not the actual selling price). These alloys have a had a few owners from this Forum from what I read , they are like famous lol. Cheers.

Thanks think I'm going to get some 15” BBS RS033 4x100 for my golf or BBSRM instead as I like to go tops 16' with my Rado just personal preference,also more like the 1100 mark then 2k plus for the RS301 so more affordable.

These have recreated the tow cover caps. https://gryp-3d.com/produit/volkswagen-corrado-cache-crochet-de-remorquage-int-760-535853695-535853696/ Engine covers tend to retail at £50.00 if you can get hold of a used one. 50 mm splitters are available new for Heritage. Unfortunately 90mm splitters are obsolete. https://www.vwheritage.com/535805903c-lower-front-splitter-50mm-vw-spare Spoonfed has a 70 mm or 90mm splitter . https://www.spoonfedtuning.com/collections/corrado?page=1

These have recreated the tow cover caps. https://gryp-3d.com/produit/volkswagen-corrado-cache-crochet-de-remorquage-int-760-535853695-535853696/

Are those real BBS RS you have on your old car Harrier? if so do you still have them and wheel spec. 5 stud 5x100 etc. Cheers.

They are really smooth V8 even better the V12 but not many knowledgeable mechanics out there that can work on them. There was some really rare pre merger AMG R129's as well the Sl73 which was a 7.3 block V12 (the same engine that Zonda Used)Also an SL60 which was the V8 version, pretty rare stuff but you do see a SL60 come up occasionally but never a SL73.

Think that V8 was the block after the the M113 Kev or the supercharged version, I have heard of that to, merc engines are far to complex now and just silly amounts to go wrong.

Boxsters sound less troublesome then the 911 but I have to admit even though the engines can destroy the ownership experience does not mean I still don't want to own again ha ! Thinking about selling my Mk7 GTI for one but have to say the Mk7 golf is a great car in its own right and feels alot stronger then the 230 BHP mine has on the logbook. Think the strongest/reliable engine I had in a car was a M113 5.0 V8 in my old Merc R129, have never ever heard of a gasket failure or score boring on this block , On the Merc forum they said that none had been rebuilt not sure if that is true, there is a supercharged version that does get a few issues. Also the M119 block V8 before the M113 is a tank. Truly one of the best engines ever made. Only catch most of them come with a Auto. damn I would of loved it if it was manual.

If the part number is rubbed off on the alternator it's a bugger as most alternators were installed on specification/options of car in factory , I imagine on all late VR6 with leather seats, mirrors they had the highest amp , that is another reason I sent mine off to be refurbed in the case of my Golf because it has electric windows, mirrors etc. What was the KW on your original starter motor ? The above links are actually the same company they have loads of sites but have different branding, buycarparts uk is another one of their brands. I highly recommend these guys for reconditioning they did my alternator and starter. Came back looking like new. 1 week turn around , think it cost me about £150 for starter and alternator including 24hr return delivery. https://www.qxcomponents.co.uk/ QX Components Ltd David Pilgrim 69, Higher Road Urmston Manchester Greater Manchester M41 9AP United Kingdom

Agreed not much as an issue on the 3.4 , the 3.6 all the way from 2001 - 2009 + 997 have huge problems with bore scoring. My Porsche specialist after boroscoping my 996 2003 3.6 actually advised me do not touch any 996 or 997 unless its the Gen 2 from 2009 onwards. However I have read articles now that the first cases are starting to come in on these models as well now. Don't get me wrong bore scoring can happen on a lot of engines but should not happen with a car that is 5 years old with low mileage. The catch is it's a 10-15k cost engine rebuild which for most 996 or 997 is not far off the value of the car so puts the owner in a horrific position. The three Porsche owners I Know. Mate owns a 996 3.6 4s had d chunk in engine at 70k - 13k rebuild Landlord at yard scrapped a red 2.7 boxster -engine failure at 50 s on clock My car that got bore scoring with full service history at 62k/ Was thinking about getting another 996 last year and went to see one in Dover as I do love the way they drive. Put a deposit down but through my own initiative called the Porsche specialist that the last receipt was a signed to , he told me do not touch that car we tried to change the IMS bearing and could not remove it as the timing was out, does appear the engine needs a rebuild, contacted the seller and he gave me my deposit back . If I was going to get one again I would source a Hartech rebuild myself. Sorry to sound so negative on the model but from my experience was not to good to be honest. As most people know these also suffer from the IMS bearing shattering and destroying the engine just to add to the list of catastrophic engine failures.

Great pictures to check out how the cars look with different alloy wheels. Think the 16 speedlines look mint. P.s anyone after some tyres these could be a bargain https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/16-Genuine-BBS-RS771-Split-Rims-VW-Alloy-wheels-5X100/223722845123?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144

Love the BBS RS. did they do these in - 5x100 stud as well guys, only thought they came in 4 stud?

Problem with the boxster mate is the bore scoring, looking at a 10 K rebuild,used parts will be plentiful for the 996 and Boxster generation as so many will be written off because they have several variant catastrophic engine failures, the engines are chocolate. Also the gear boxes are starting to go on them as well. Had a 996 with bore scoring only 62k on the clock , still miss the car though.

At this point I would call Vince at Stealth racing and have a chat.

I disagree they can be worth a lot if you provide evidence that they are in good condition. The rear seals are a pain been obsolete a proper job is to remove the seals as mentioned , however there are special tool/wire that can lift the rubber seals so you paint a fair bit under the seal so you would not see the line, your body shop should have these really.

I imagine you have given the housing hole a bit of fine sanding. ATE is a good brand for sure.

Congratulations ! Was it a aftermarket ABS sensor mate ? I had a aftermarket crank sensor and it was a sod to get out, put a new OE VW to replace it.

Pricey but looks fum. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-E30-3-0-M3-RMS-Supercharged-S50b30-443BHP-1990-318IS-Sleeper-16-950/153667506939?hash=item23c74c12fb:g:XsMAAOSwKF9c~sTm

I was trying to sort out my rear bumper corner clips as the corners were loose and noticed furthest back you can go on the rear frame I have some rust that will need cutting out , its behind the bolts that hold the rear bumper on, fuel filler side. Will be a bumper off job so going to refresh the whole area with new brackets and bolts etc as do not want to visit this area again for a long time to come. These are the new parts I purchased today and will be parts used for the underside rear bumper refresh . Back to body shop she will go for full inspection any welding, paint and undercoat. Best to get on to it quick to make it less of a job. Rear corner bumper clips x4 with seal 191807193 ebay Rear bumper heat shield 535807517 Heritage Bumper clips x9 535804538 Heritage Rear right bumper bracket 535807331 Heritage Rear left bumper bracket 535807332 Heritage Bolts for brackets N01024016 x4 + washers N01152527 x4 + bolts for brackets N90309201 x4 + N91017701 pop rivets for heat guard x6 VW Dealers Firstly I always check if the dealers have the bolts available, everyone else that sells them puts on top of the dealers price so always cheaper at the dealers as they give me trade price. got to know the parts guy well. Once the bumper is off Im going to have the the bumper Iron powder coated. Will get the back of the bumper area painted/ sealed and the rust spot cut out at the body shop. So there you go chaps that is the parts for a full bumper refresh !