Keyo

Thank Fen I'll keep that in mind in the future but I can't bring myself to peel off the membrane now it has been newly fitted. One thing I was thinking is some waterproof treatment to the bottom of the internal door as this looks like a very damp area and prone to erosion.

Ok thanks Dox think I will leave it be for the time been. Cheers.

Thanks somone showed me how to remove the doors cards a few weeks ago so can get them off in under 5 minutes . Does the whole window aperture have to be taken out of the door to replace them or can you just pop them off when they are in the horizontal track at the bottom of the door? Can you inspect the door rollers visually by lowering the window when the door card is off by looking at the horizontal strip at the bottom of the door. Cheers.

Thanks Dox, my driver side glass does shake when half way down and you can move it a little from side to side , is this the rollers causing this. Looked at that thread but can't see how you change them, is it a big job? I actually have 4 new rollers as spare at home. Cheers.

Of course I didn't as there was bound to be something I missed ha ! How do you check them , do you have to lower the window and inspect the rollers in the track ? Cheers

Did the crappy job of door membranes today. All I needed to do the job was some 15 meters of double sided butyl tape. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DOUBLE-SIDED-WATERPROOF-MEMBRANE-JOINTING-BUTYL-TAPE-DPM-VARIOUS-WIDTHS/182833094846?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=690136424080&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 1 per door sheet membrane https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Golf-door-membrane-protects-from-damp/253356930907?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Heat gunned the old butyl off then applied new membrane using the old membrane as a template. Used WD40 electric contact spray on all connections whilst in that area. Before [ATTACH=CONFIG]97185[/ATTACH] After [ATTACH=CONFIG]97186[/ATTACH] Happy with outcome ! Just has to replace one of the speaker connectors .

These look the same as your Sean but with a different ET. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vauxhall-Astra-G-Mk4-EDITION-100-BBS-RX258-17-5-Stud-Alloy-Wheels-Alloys-Set/264182966715?hash=item3d828829bb:g:2UsAAOSwA3xcWrB1

Bloomin hell never new that, have seen them relating to Volvo as well off ebay.

I can vouch for this , when I first got the Rado broke down twice in the first couple of weeks, first time was contacts on the battery needed a wire brush and he got me on my way. Second he checked fuse box and blown fuse , got me on the way both on the roadside .

Good stuff Sean, Did you flog the wheels ? Are the 17 even rarer then the 16 ?

Agreed I would rather get a bare set for between £150- £250 and get them powder coated and make sure they are straight on the roll machine, then look for some tyres , tyres only have a life span of 10 years I believe so that is worth looking at as well if alloys come with tyres.

I really like them as well, wouldn't mind a set if a bargain come up , would have to know the 7J fit though and would go for 16. Will have a look on your sig. Did'nt 7.5J stick way past the arches though Sean ?

I don't think they are expensive because it says the wheels and tyres are in good condition (but that would have to be the case), so if you worked out 4 tyres and cost of refurbishment etc. If you have an early 4 stud model you can get in to a set for quite a good price as they are more common, however 5 stud come on the market less often. 4 stud https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-16-BBS-RX214-Alloy-Wheels-x-4-4x100/233253981494?hash=item364f054d36:g:xEsAAOSwo5dc~tKD&frcectupt=true Has anyone got the 5 stud BBS RX fitted then guys , I have seen them on photos, what did you have to do to get them to fit, also do the tyres stick out over the arches ? Does the 7J make the steering a bit stiffer then stock 6.5J, I personally really like the look of split rims , on a F40 or Lotus Espirit wow! And some people pay 4k for a brand new set of BBS splits in the VW community so they are highly sort after in certain circles.

Has anyone fitted the bbs alloy 16 none split version in the link off eBay . 7j wide and et35. Is it a straight on fit or do you need spacers , once fitted do the tyres stick past the arches a little ?

Thanks P.

Its has no real purpose anymore but is a desired retro look to an alloy wheel. You can get these alloys with out the splits as well Fend https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BBS-RX-ALLOY-WHEELS-7x16-5x100-VW-GOLF-MK3-MK4-SET-OF-4/283512104755?hash=item4202a36733:g:v9QAAOSwSnRc~laf Not sure they are a direct fit becayse of the ET35 amd also 7 inch wide which is a good thing I guess. Splitrims vs. One-Piece Wheels Three-piece, or composite, wheels came into vogue in the 1970s, and reached their peak of stylishness for street use in the 1980s. In the beginning, they provided several benefits. At the time, forging a one-piece wheel was not economical. Porsche's factory forged Fuchs alloys, especially in the wider sizes, were and are today considered very special, expensive items. One-piece centers could be forged, however, and bolted to spun aluminum rims, giving a strong, lightweight wheel. Additional benefits included flexibility of fitment and repairability. Rims could be built for nearly any width or offset, so if you needed just 40 or 50, or maybe only eight, for your racing program, tooling up was a piece of cake, and the costs to be amortized quite reasonable. A damaged rim could be replaced separately, making it cheaper to keep going in the rough world of racing. A three-piece wheel's advantages of exact fitment and repairability remain today, as ever, and are significant. Most high-end composite wheel manufacturers deal in low enough volumes that custom sizes and offsets are a regular part of their business. Unfortunately, manufacturing a composite wheel is extremely labor intensive. A human must assemble the pieces ‘humans are slow, and cost a lot more than machines. A one-piece forged wheel is comparatively more expensive to tool up for. The process is faster, though, so these extra costs can be spread out over a larger number of wheels. In a one-piece forging, all the material is structural. There are no bolts, no flanges to be bolted together, and no extra material for the bolts to bite into, so a one-piece wheel may be a pound or two lighter than an equivalent three-piece wheel.

Spot on Dox, they are pretty close on the front calipers compared to the stock speed lines but enough distance to be safe, rears have loads of clearance on calipers.

Thanks Shaun. Yes mate 16 , got them off ebay last year and they were finished in dark grey so reverted them back to more of a stock look. Also think dark alloys sometimes don't look right on a black car but can look good on red, white etc. Seen them on ebay for as low as £200 needing a refurb , got mine for a few hundred refurbished in the grey , I think that's a sweet price for a split rim set finished. City alloys of Birmingham did the whole set for £280, that included a specialist coming in to split the alloys and put them back together and replace any tatty bolts, also 2 tone paint on paint. Sitting on Eibach lowering springs + B4 Bilstein + Tyres Avon ZV7 205/45/16 Specification VW BBS RS771 Golf Anniversary Mk3 Mk4 Alloy Wheels Brand: BBS Number of Studs 5 Metal Type: Aluminium Manufacturer Part Number 1J0601025E Rim Structure: Two Piece Type: Split Rim Offset: 42 Stud Diameter: 100 Rim Width: 6.5J Rim Diameter: 16

RS BBS alloys back on the Rado after refurbishment, very happy with the outcome. Went for diamond metallic silver centres and polished lip. Think they look right on the car and the RS BBS are the bargain split rim alloy for the Rado imo, straight fit on standard brakes. [ATTACH=CONFIG]97137[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]97138[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]97139[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]97140[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]97141[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]97142[/ATTACH]

Unplug the crank sensor and spray it with some contact spray. How high was the flood , you ha ent sucked water into your intake ? Check air filter is dry .

I was reading up on the 2.0 8V and I believe they uprated the engine because they had to fit a Cat to apply to new emission laws and the variation lost a lot power therefore introduced the 2.0 8V.

I think the 16V need to be safe guarded because they are most lighly the ones to be stripped, I bet they are all ready the rarest model in the Corrado line up to date ?

Yes It just controls the valve that triggers the round solenoid on top/middle of the Shrick that opens the flap that changes over on 4000 revs I believe , must also get the information from the ECU of the rev measurement, I believe you can program it to trigger the flap on certain rev readings, also the light changes colour on the piggy ecu when you hit the rev trigger for the flap. Here is a good thread of someone who just managed to buy the Shrick Manifold without auxiliary components, the flap was broken and he manufactured a new one and managed to source the Solenoid and valve off Ford I think . https://forums.mwerks.com/showthread.php?7181683-attn-SCHRICK-VGI-guru-s Another great thread on the Shrick. https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6862263-Schrick-VGI-Installation-and-Information

I wouldn't let that put you off a Shrick it's nothing major and sparks don't get changed that often. One thing I do wonder about though, what if the piggyback ECU failed would it be possible to replace this.

This looks mint.