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Supercharged

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Everything posted by Supercharged

  1. Stealth Racing (Southam) or DG Autotech (Kidderminster)
  2. Nice - was it an original black one? New ones are blue but only buy this from VW if you can - pattern ones are notoriously unreliable!
  3. Yep - mine always does this which is annoying - I just keep a syringe with the kit which just fits inside the res. Never had it leak at the tyre end but I have just about everywhere else - I recommend buying a couple of VW brake fluid res seals next time you're at the dealer! Meant to say always have some brake cleaner handy too for spillages!
  4. The carrier was different because of the 256mm brakes, same as a 4 Stud Corrado. The hub itself was the same as other late models. ABS hubs are different to non-abs ones
  5. Well... you can get the shells out (have to be careful though if not using a press and damage with a punch) but I think either way, if you need new discs or bearings then just change both as the cost is not that much even from VW and if you buy genuine parts and they're fitted correctly then you'd expect to get around 80k miles out of both. Yeah - I used MK4 clips but the corrado ones are ok, just need to pinch them up so they fit a bit better.
  6. VW do exchange calipers for about half that but you could call Steve at C&R as he used to sell them at very good prices. The VWspares ones should be fine as long as they are 38mm pistons (not 32mm used on Polo's) - I would stick with VW for the bearings though!
  7. I'm getting hard Jim and I've not even clicked the link yet! ---------- Post added at 3:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 3:47 PM ---------- Ok - that's awesome - just becuase not many build threads go into the body work detail. The primer dipping is what VW used on our cars and probably why they are still on the road!
  8. Not sure off the top of my head but you're looking for consistent readings on the gauge - will be fairly obvious if there is a problem... Did you guys check number 1 cyl was at TDC before setting the distributor? - just wondering if that could be 180 degrees out?
  9. Yep - they work fine and VW say pressure bleed (NOT vac) The seal supplied is rubbish though and tends to fail after a few goes, I got Gunson to send me a couple of new ones out but were no better - got a new one from VW (cap seal) and it's been great since!
  10. Cool, I tried to sort mine by fitting the MK4 PCB to the sender but it just wouldn't go... be interested to see what you come up with!
  11. What car / year is it Scott??
  12. Great work, not sure if you're aware but the MK4 fuel gauge works to the reverse of the resistance of the MK2 one... My MK4 clocks have always been 'backwards' as it's still using a MK2 style pump and sender unit - it has a variable resister fitted in line somewhere so 'empty' is set at one end of the gauge. Be interested if you manage to find a workaround for this? I never got round to it but easiest option would be to reverse the full / empty decal on the clocks face if they come out easily?
  13. Supercharged

    Headlights

    Welcome to the forum - Yes - I think the ones you have need setting up for RHD... have a search on here for info but I remember people buying them on here and finding they were not setup correctly. ---------- Post added at 9:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 9:51 PM ---------- Here you go... http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?35458-Angel-Eyes-convert-LHD-to-RHD-help-needed&highlight=angel+eyes+setup
  14. Are you making these yourself? i.e. can you do a custom length if needed (my setup goes to the MK4 / 02m box) also are you able to add the plastic over the braiding like Goodridge do?
  15. Hmm - yeah the fact the windows don't work is a good clue - fuse for these is seperate to the main ones above the fusebox - worth checking in case the feed to the imob comes from this... If you find a relay it will most likely be a standard auto one like the headlight looks use.
  16. Easy-Out or drill out I'm afraid... You need to use stainless screws really these days on the lights especially ---------- Post added at 9:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 9:31 PM ---------- What you need to buy... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/No10-x-5-8-4-8x16mm-PAN-HEAD-SELF-TAPPING-SCREWS-A4-STAINLESS-STEEL-10-PACK-/290675127665?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&hash=item43ad967571
  17. Then you'd need to drill the wheel also! M14 is just the size for 5 stud / plus suspension.
  18. Yeah - it's just that it's back to the original fault makes me think it could be wiring or maybe a connection has come loose since the swap... maybe worth disconnecting the battery and re-seating / brightening up all the connections around the starter / alternator circuit
  19. That would prove a wiring fault from the ignition - give it a try if you can before removing the starter again... If the starter was from anywhere else i'd agree but the VW units are usually as good as new!
  20. Do you just get a click from the starter?? If so I think it must be a faulty unit or wiring to it not carrying enough current to move the solenoid... The circuit to actually activate the starter is fairly simple - what about feeding 12V straight from the battery to the single pin plug on the soleniod?
  21. Coil shouldn't affect the clocks getting power - something more fundamental going on here like a failed relay on an aftermarket imobiliser... Have you got AA cover? could get them out if so as usually very get at electrical diags...
  22. I think that explains why he's an ex-vw tech :-) Yeah best thing to do is get hold of a gauge and see what you have - if valves are bent again then they would close and give v low readings. If that's ok then look at ignition timing - it has to be 'in the zone' for the car to start.
  23. Welcome to the forum! How far out were the cams? did you change the chain also? hopefully you've not bent anything again... check compression! Is the fuel 5 years old??
  24. Ah thanks for that - yeah I had noticed the funny sizes but didn't know why... So if I run 195/45/16 then I wonder what the best size would be? - 185/50/16?
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