Supercharged

Ignition or cam timing??

What car is it? Most have an electric speedo, some early cars have mechanical... Assumic it's electric (digital mileage display) , check the wiring - the speed sensor is £15 for the G60...

Yep, check your recalls Rodders, there was an ABS one... It probably is just a wheel sensor - have you pressure washed the car recently?? If not I would do but if its as bad as you say then the sensor probably will need changing, wait to see what comes up on VAGCOM The only other thing I can think of is maybe the ABS relays also suffered some water damage as they are not far from the ECM...

Ehh??

I think it depends on the company, I remember someone else on here saying the 16V was a higher group than the G60 and a mate of mine changed his 2.016V for a G60 and was stunned when the insurance dropped £120...

Hmmm - did you take it for a run to warm up fully?? I assumed the pump and thermostat were ok as you said the fan was coming on eventually so the Rad must be getting some heat into it...

Yep, got some from the dealer the other day and wasn't asked for any ID, they know me and he car tho (all too well!)

Errr, water is the best coolant so if you have more G12+ that water then it will run hotter if anything. The coolant additive is there to stop corrosion and prevent the water freezing over winter.

Most likely, the 16V mk2's had a bigger bore size... VW exhasts don't look great but they are cheaper and last twice as long as pattern ones.

Yep, but this is stuff that only needs doing every 100k's so that will give you peace of mind for a good few years!

Got a pic?

Yep, the coolant pump is the water pump (bloody haynes!) Black Cat - not sure what the 16V water pump is like, probably the same or very similar, at least you havn't got a fecking great supercharger to get out the way first in order to get to it! G12+ is VW's own coolant additive (it has replaced the G11 and G12 that our cars had when they were built) It's about a fiver for a 1.5 litre bottle, you'll need 2 of these as you want a 30-40% mix (with distilled water) - 4 cylinder cars have a cooling system capacity of about 5-6 litres, The VR6 has nearly 10 litres.

Deleted duplicate. I have a similar problem, ran rough for a couple of weeks, could'nt see anything obvious then got worse and started cutting out at idle, then when driving... I have changed the distributer too as I thought it was the hall sender but no better... Do you think yours is temp related?? - ie runs ok until it gets to opperating temp??

Halfords do a stealth shelf for £99

Don't really get why someone would steal the plates, if they are going to 'clone' it then they'd just as easily get the plates made up with your registration on...

Ok, sounds like the rad thermoswitch is faulty (fan probably one comes on at 110 degrees?) It should have 2 opperating ranges (2 stage fan) They are about £7 for GSF and you'll need to find if you need the flat or the (later) round plug depending on the year of your car. They are located between to top and botom hoses on the rad, take the plug off to check the wiring and which type it is... To change it you take the battery off and use a 30mm (plumbing size) spanner, if your quick to swap them over you shouldn't lose much coolant but mae sure you get the old washer off and the new one goes on, compression washer so just needs to be nipped up (don't overtighten)

Not sure where the stat is on a 16V but you want to run her up to operating temp and see which hoses are hot and which are cold, you would expect all hoses to be warm before it starts boiling over if the stat is working, if its not you may find one of the hoses to remain cold - most likely the bottom rad hose to the water pump/ thermostat housing...

The parts are not that much but it's a very labour intensive job, the engine doesn't have to come out (but some people do to make it easier..) but the gearbox has to come off to do the lower tensioner so you may as well change the clutch while your there... Also, some people opt to go for a head rebuild at the same time because of the high millage - I know Stealth have a set price for this of about £1500 I think (you may want to call them to check this)

The above words don't go together! - either buy new VW or original second hand, pattern are sh1te! If its Corrado parts you're after then no one makes pattern parts anyway...

Run it up to temp with the cap off, squeeze pipes to work any trapped air out... Did you replace the stat? - maybe its got clogged with oil, even if its a new one...

kasman21, sounds like either a fuse has gone, or if the light in the dash is glowing then maybe a bad earth, check the fuses/bulbs first and go from there...

Hmmm, the owners manual covers getting it open if the c/l fails but not how to open it if its jammed....

Hmmm, may just be age, I've now replaced all my hoses, clips, header tank, pump and all plastic flanges/sensors but still on original radiator and matrix.... In a pressurised system leaks will always occur at the weakest point and when that is fixed it will move to the next one... also note there is a pressure release valve in the expansion tank cap. Is everything working as far as you know? - car heats up as it should, temp stabilises as stat opens, rad fan works on both speeds etc? Maybe worth getting a pressure test done to see what state the head gasket is in, wear on VR's always occurs at each end of the engine, 1 and 6 first which must be due to heat (lack of cooling)

:lol:

Here is the 95 Price list....