Supercharged

Yeah sorry just had a closer look - wonder what happened to the wiring??!!

Mate - needs to be a bit to the left to show the slave - you'll see the curly pipe feeding it...

As David says well worth checking the Slave - Wales, if you can take a pic of the top of the gearbox where the cables and slave is we might be able to see if it's original or not and if it's leaking fluid.

Slave cylinder may have been shot at 70k though - often then the owner thinks they need a new clutch so sticks it into the garage... Same happened to my G60, new clutch at 59k then Master cyl then finally slave - £500 was spent by the previous owner to fix a £30 part that had failed!

If it's an LUK or SASHS I wouldn't suspect it although it could be down to poor fitment or a damaged clutch fork / release bearing sleeve etc... I'd try and have a look - may even be still under warranty

I think as always the issues are down to poor communication... thanks for the updates though guys and hopefully this is resolved!

Do you know what clutch was fitted mate?? Ie if it was a cheapo Mr Clutch part then it might be that...

ECU relay or ignition switch?? Could be something stuck on maybe draining the battery - how about disconnecting when you get to work and then seeing what happens later...

As above and if no fault found then I would bite the bullett and try a new MAF

Which to be fair is what most garages do...

That's all wrong I'm afraid - from the VAG workshop manual... Remove any paint residue, bonding agent residue and or corrosion on threads/splines of the outer joint. Fit drive shaft. Guide outer joint into wheel hub splines as far as possible. Fit 12 point nut and pull outer joint into the wheel hub until the outer joint is in position. Connect ball joint to wishbone (35nm, bolts on old marks) Fit inner joint and tighten bolts to 45nm. Coat surface of twelve point nut with oil and screw on as far as possible. Lower vehicle, but ensure wheels do not touch the ground – if they do bearing could be damaged. Apply brakes. Tighten 12 point nut to 200Nm and then loosen one turn. Pre tighten 12 point nut to 50nm. Mark one of the 12 points on the nut with a line at its peak. Mark a second line on the next adjacent twelve (in a doing up direction obviously) on the wheel hub. Distance between the two marks = 30 degrees. Align both marks.

Yeah was going to say make sure it's done right with genuine parts - ie at VW! Not sure what you can do really apart from pull out but you're completely right - full service history means the belt would have been flagged on the last service although the customer can always say no and the book with still get stamped. Slightly different engine (1.9 PD 8V 115BHP) but my belt was absolutely fooked at 62k - cracked all the way round! I'd push to get another £300 knocked off and take it to VW yourself

I dunno what's in that VW stuff but it's far superior to anything else I've tried... normal grease just attracts dust and grit.

Good pics - as you've probably realised you don't need those sleeves in the first pic - not fitted on Corrado's

Possibly one of the worst things you can fit to a G60... good idea in theory but poor quality means they can damage the charger.

Still can't believe no one does an all red set with LED's - problem with most of these is the quality, the don't fit and leak!

You might save a bit of cash getting the discs and pads from Eurocarparts but buy genuine bearings from VW

Is the original that much? - the 4 Cyl Corrado one is only £15 from VW

I think the issue is a lot of modern technicians don't understand how to fit a taper bearing to make it last - how many people on here moan about replacing them every year or so - I've had this with pattern parts but my current genuine ones have done over 60k now, ones on my mums MK3 golf are original and have done 120k although one is starting to get a bit rough now.

Taper bearings are fine and last ages if fitted correctly but this is just a more modern solution even though VW have moved on a generation since with a bolt on solution. This makes bearings more expensive though as they are integral with the hub so cost £50-£70 a side. On the upside you can change discs on there own and (in theory) the bearing should handle a higher torque loading. On a 4 Stud car you use the Polo / Lupo Setup with a spacing plate that holts the carrier, use MK4 carriers and calipers along with the polo disc and pads, not sure about ABS sensor fitment though so this could be an issue. On a VR I think you'd just use the above but with the MK4 Golf bearing for 5 stud and matching disc - it's a bit of a mismatch of parts! Other things to think about are using the vented rear setup from the 4 Motion etc on a VR using the appropriate calipers etc. There is a guide with some good pics on CGTI about doing this to a 4-stud.

No - bolt spacing different - you need to use one from a Lupo / Polo

Can't believe you paid a tenner mate - it's worth well over £100, maybe twice that as it's the cab!

You bought it without an MOT? - you nutter... Did it pass then?

There were several cabrios built in the early 90s by the following companies. Karmann Zender, world premiere: Geneva 1989. V.A.G. Eicke of Berlin, prototypes built by Design + Technik in Hamburg. 500 models planned, only 4 made. Design + Technik Same folks who made the Corrado Magnum. V.A.G. Eicke, Design + Technik Corrado Cabrio. http://www.thecorrado.com/dt.html Magnum. http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4068032

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?48862-Laser-VAG-Wiring-Terminal-Tool-3932&highlight=terminal+tool