Supercharged

About £10 each if you get a bit of discount.

You just need the TT / R32 ones - go to your local VW / Audi dealer

There is a belt driven one and a aux (electric) one...

This works well on a VR6 and obviously you have the extra power to make the performance drop negligable.

DG Autotech?

Which one?

Sorry Steve, just to confirm that's for a manual VR6...? Is it also based on an exchanged part? Any suggestions on what to do if you wanted to get the part without handing over the part, ie you need to be able to drive the car to the dealers to pick it up lol?! M Yeah, manual but check with your dealer before ordering... X means exchange and you might have to pay a surcharge and bring the old unit back within 14 days (I think!)

02A911024EX £100+vat Trade

Straight swap, the 2.8's tend to be a bit stronger / longer lasting anyway, probably because the water jackets are not as thin as on the 2.9 unit.

Moving to suppliers...

Welcome to the forum - Any fault codes logged and has the car been setup using the basic settings procedure recently? http://wiki.the-corrado.net/vr6_ecu_res ... edure.html

VW for the Starter - it will be an exchange unit but they are most likely brand new rather than rebuilds - I've never had a rebuild starter that lasts more than a few years from a factor. Same with the rear bearings - change them before they glue themselves to the stub axles as GSF ones tend to do - dangerous imo.

Stealth always used to press the leads down (carefully) with something to check they were correctly seated (not just using the hazet tool) I've also seen then wrap a bit of electrical tape around the bases of old leads to give a bit of extra insulation.

I can't believe you drilled the nut - you could have just gone to a garage and got them to gun it off you nutter! :lol: As above you need to press the bearing in, take the whole bearing carrier to your local VW specialist (I say VW as they will have the correct sizes), undo the pinch bolt holding the bottom ball joint (not the 3 holding it to the wishbone) and you'll need a good ball joint splitter for the track rod end. If you mark the 2 strut bolts or use a magnetic camber gauge on the brake disc or hub you can get the alignment close if you're careful. Also make sure you get a genuine bearing kit as these are the only ones that last - come with all the bits to put back together also, Hub nut, spline grease, a few nuts, bolts and torx screw for brake disc. Some useful pics in this thread - viewtopic.php?f=23&t=83206&p=1044330

That was me - worth taking a punt and ordering an individual lead and just seeing what colour it is...

VR Pas pump is £169.70 + Vat Trade - 6N0145157X

Mate - surely you're entitled to a hire car, this is what insurance is for!!

So if someone claims against you you'll have to pay the excess anyway won't you so you might as well claim for your own damages??

Either heat exchanger or headgasket then...

First of all have you got an uprated loom? If so that's most likely to be the issue - maybe dodgy relay...

Not worth claiming on insurance?? Just the lights alone are £500 and if you need a bumper / grill etc It could touch £1000 quite easily!

Yep - as above driving on it won't have done any favours - I wouldn't trust any tyre that had been driven below 20PSI, just not worth it especially with good tyres for these cars available at £50 a corner

(Regarding the 54k Pistonheads link) Yep, as above we are fairly sure the mileage is genuine as was the owner but unfortunatly is wasn't great... in some ways nice to see a fairly original / standard example but with that low mileage we expected a lot more - I'm sure it will still sell but the new owner will need to spend the asking price again to make it 'good' :( No real rust but scratches on every panel meaning you'd really need a complete blow over to make it a mint example plus roof / weather strips etc etc... It also had a pass rear window at some point and the owner said the pass door had been changed due to an accident 3 years ago - unfortunately this had not been painted / prepared well and there was rust coming through all along the bottom. The rest of the car though I have to say was 99% rust free, arches and sills good. Can't really give any more detail as we only looked at it for 5 mins, made up our minds and got on the road back to Suffolk.

Moving to suppliers... Had the same issues Wendy - the main problem with the stock levels is that so much is stolen, an unbelievable amount actualy!

Can't help and you need to fix these before investigating anything else really - the VR6 should give between 30 - 35 mpg easily if running right